AH64ID

I took a photo on a recent camping trip, but can't find it, of my IAT's pre and post turbo. I don't recall the exact numbers, and hopefully will find the photo, but the pre-turbo temps were 30-40° hotter than post turbo, and even more than that above ambient. It was slow speed towing, which is where I think the BHAF will decrease power the most. I will try to find it, I think it was a good example of how hot the underhood temps get.

With most injector failures there are initial indications, and during a failure there are indications, the block doesn't have to be lost. Some might throw a code, but only if it is an electrical failure. Good filtering really helps, as does good fuel (lubricity wise).

Stock is the best you can run below 450-500 rwhp, period. Mileage claims are bogus, think about it, when you are cruising your airflow is low. If your stock filter were hindering flow at 4-8 psi of boost while cruising do you think it could keep up with 32 psi of boost and WOT? If a filter is able to increase the flow that much at a low flow condition then it is either HUGE, much bigger than they are, or it has lower restriction and generally less filtering ability.

The HY isn't too bad, but if your going to spend some money I would get a HX, especially with injectors. If you want to go a little further you can ship it to Turbo Re-Source in Lake Havasu, Az and they will rebuild it to better than new, and give you a 1 year guarantee. I am going to be shipping my dad's HE351CW off to them in a few weeks for a rebuild, and have a larger turbine wheel installed.

ISX, I missed your question. 2 stroke and my truck didn't agree, but dorkweek likes it. Piston damage occurs with injector failure when the injectors fail to close. Since they don't POP and fuel is always at the injector it sprays thru all 4 cycles, as Michael mentioned, and the leads to excessive piston temps and melting, which takes out the injector tip, piston, and cylinder wall in short order. No need for a Frantz or centrifuge on the fuel (still don't like the idea of TP in my fuel/oil and possible water in the fuel means dissolved TP), there are several commercially available filters that exceed the filtering needs of the HPCR system. fixed it for you.

There are some inaccuracies and poor examples in the thread. Cummins gives the CR a longer life to overall than a VP truck, I want to say by 100K miles but maybe only 50K miles. Either way it's only 350K miles before Cummins says it will need an overhaul, and there are MANY CR's with a lot more miles than that on them. With proper maintenance 500K miles is not any harder on a CR than a VP. It may cost a little more, but cost per hp is probably similar. There are plenty of high mileage CR's out there, and lots that die a young age. I would have to say of all the motors I have seen die a young age it's due to the fact that with less than $1,000 you can have a 450-500rwhp truck that has too much fuel for the turbo and an idiot behind the wheel (to be honest with an idiot behind the wheel Micheal's truck, which has way too much fuel for the turbo, would easily be tossed in the short life lane). I would be far more leery of a VP truck leaving me stranded than a CR truck, but they both have downfalls that can be fixed. These are some of the most expensive injectors on the market, more than OEM, and they can move enough fuel for 1,000 rwhp +. http://sourceautomotive.biz/bbi-injectorset-stage1-1-1.aspx The link you posted to rockauto is NOT even close to the correct price of an injector. 6.7 injectors are more than 5.9 injectors, but still less than half of what rockauto has them listed for (so far I have yet to be impressed with rockauto's prices on most things). So back to the OP, this is stock for stock.. The 03-04 are a little better on fuel than anything up until 2013. The 03-04 range from 235-305hp, and come with a 5speed manual (I would avoid), a 6 speed manual, or a 4 speed auto (not an auto guy personally, but early SO's had a 47RE (avoid) the rest were 48RE) The 04.5-07 all have 325hp and mileage is down a little due to emissions. Choices are a 6 speed manual (NV5600 or G56 05.5+) or a 4 speed auto (48RE) 07.5-09 get a little worse mileage than the 04.5-07 sometime, and sometimes a little better. I would say ultimate average is down. All have 350hp, the 6 speed manual has 610 ft/lbs while the 6 speed auto has 650 ft/lbs. The auto is supposed to be a good unit if that's what you are into. 03-09 all have basically the same seat setup, 4 real doors but the rear is not a full crew cab and more like a 3/4 cab. I put my 3 kids back there without an issue, but they are still young. As they grow away from booster seats they will actually get more legroom based on seat height, until they get too big. The megacab was introduced in 2006, it has a HUGE cab. It's a LWB truck with a short box, all the extra space is the rear seat. The 10-12 have essentially the same engine as the 07.5-09 (minor changes through the years trying for better mileage). The 11.5+ auto's are rated at 800 ft/lbs. The 4 door truck is a real crew cab and has a lot of room. The 2013 is the same cab as the 10-12 with a different engine setup. The manual sticks with lower torque 350/660, the 2500 gets a 370/800 motor and the 3500 gets either a 370/800 or 385/850 motor. The 13's went to SCR and mileage is greatly improved. So that's the basis on the trucks. The 03-04 are the heartiest, but also the lowest power rating (coincidence??). Modern diesels run a lot of fuel pressure, with multiple injection events, and have some VERY tight tolerances. You cannot neglect maintenance on a CR like you could on a 160hp 12 valve and expect it to last. The motor is making right around 1hp per cubic inch, that's a big number for a work motor. Hope that helps. Not swinging any punches just trying to remove some of the VP love bias from the discussion from a VP heavy website. - - - Updated - - - A note on the 6.7. They were less reliable than the 5.9 at first, but the software improved and by 08.5ish they were getting pretty reliable, and today they are nothing to be scared of. They do have more moving parts, and thus more things to break, but are a reliable pickup. If you get an early 6.7 I would check the service history, going thru a turbo isn't a bad thing as long as it got a software upgrade at the same time. That's actually a good thing as you have a new turbo and the latest software which is the most reliable and fuel efficient.

I just looked at last years receipt, $94 total of which $15 is for the elk plates, so $80 for 26K lbs. I would guess there are at least a few bucks in there for being 3 years newer. $36 is CHEAP, I wonder how much county has to do with it. My wife's 03 is $64/yr for 8K lbs. My commuter is an 02 and $54/year. When I switched from car plates to truck plates I don't recall it being a big increase, maybe $20?. Well worth it considering Idaho has been nabbing guys for it.

I agree with boost leak, thou the EGT's you let the truck climb to while towing have me worried as well. On a timing modified 06 you want to try to limit to 1250° continuous and 1300° momentary. The 04.5-07 pistons are the easiest to melt. You should have 0 psi at idle, but with the digital readout you may bump 1, but that should be it unless you have a REALLY plugged air filter (still a possibility). The HE351CW in your 06 should make 2 psi at 2000 rpms, 4 psi at 2500 rpms and about 7 psi at 3000 rpms. That's with a analog gauge, the minimax should show slightly more.Don't worry about the coolant temp. The stock thermostat goes full open at 207°, with a max allowed temp of 225°. I generally run 215-216° pulling grades in the summer.

I don't have it in front of me, but with an added $15 for wildlife plates I am pretty sure I am under $100/yr for 26K.

3rd gen rotors are also outside the hub and just slide off once the corrosion and calipers are removed. Let us know what you find.

I register mine for 26K, even thou I generally only tow the TT (they are exempt based on the price you pay for the RV sticker), but the weight of stuff in the bed get's me over 10K at times and the truck is over 8K empty so I am overweight with an empty bed. I went for 26K over 16K for two reasons, 1 is it's only a few more bucks, and 2 is I am covered regardless of what I do.

There is a reason draw straw's are not commonplace anymore, they were unreliable. Most of that was installation technique, but not all of it.

They aren't a Dana 60, Dodge hasn't used Dana axles (front or rear) since 2002. Ford does have hubs, but they also have sealed bearings just like the AAM in the Dodges. The hubs are one part, the stronger, greasable bearings are another aspect. Does his F250 have a D60 or D50? I was pretty sure than unless you got a DRW you got a D50 on the Super Duty's, which IIRC it's a D60 housing with some D60 and some D44 parts, thus the D50 designation. It has been many, many, years since I looked into this any I may not remember it correctly.

When I had just a single muffler the pitch from my Jacobs EB was so loud I almost stopped using the brake until I added a resonator. Obnoxious doesn't begin to describe it.

Did you know that there are 3 kinds of personal plates in Idaho? I didn't, nor does the DMV like to disclose or publish the data. If you don't know what weight you are registered for then it's 8,000lbs GCW.

Agreed. What filters were on there before?

It's really not worth it. Anything will void the warranty, and the tuners that add power with the DPF installed run the risk of damaging the DPF from additional fuel, and any economy increase from better timing/etc comes at additional regens since optimal economy isn't as EPA friendly.

Stock and drive it.. Nothing will do what you want without mods to the EPA section of the truck.

Why does a battery charger make the batteries vent out water and driving doesn't?I replaced my OEM batteries in Sep '10 with 1750 engine hours, and the way the voltage runs on the truck it's rarely below 14.0v. 1750 hours is only 72 days, but there was zero fluid loss during that time. I would think that keeping something on a trickle at 13.2 wouldn't cause venting, but????

Welcome!Starting to be a few of us on here from the valley.

No, but it's much harder to overload them to the point of safety concerns on multiple parts. On a 1/2 ton you are working against the frame, suspension, axles, tires, brakes, etc.. The biggest issue on a 3/4 or 1 ton is tires, pretty hard to overload the rest.

Brian,Standard questions :doh:2nd Gen UDC?Rail Pressure (23,206 limit) for the SJR UDC?Fuel Boost limiter table for UDC???Couldn't resist...

Hey Brian, Glad to see you over here too.

People are going to get very hurt if the 1/2 market keeps going the way it has, the suspension cannot handle emergency braking or lots of cross winds.

I saw that price decrease!Thanks