AH64ID

Does the edge plug into the apps signal anywhere?

That’s not a MM3 tuning problem, its a hardware issue. The quad won’t fix that.

In all likelihood you can get 95% of the power without dyno tuning, and you end up seeing more variables on the street. That’s assuming you don’t have unlimited dyno time. We don’t spend very much time at WOT, we spend a lot of time at partial throttle and that’s where street tuning makes a big difference. So I would go thru a few tune revisions before getting back on the dyno. You may also find you don’t need to get on the dyno, but might be curious too. I would also turn the snow kit off for initial tuning. Get the MM3 tune setup for the motor/injectors and then work on a snow tune.

I would work more on the MM3 before going to a quad. You will lose some pretty good abilities with a Quad.

I like whiskey and cigars.

Holy crap! 96° of duration... granted it takes a few degrees to open, but wow. CR’s cut the event around 30° ATDC regardless and I rarely use more than 30° of timing, especially down at 3200 rpms.

Yes, when I shut off the post I 0 the timing and qty

It should be -25°. I don't know why they are running a post injection event. I don't think it's needed with your setup for spool, and will just decrease mpg and add EGT's.

I am surprised to see post timing not at 0°, are they using a post injection? The main timing could possibly go a little higher, but the rpms are low so that might work well too. Do you get any hazing at cruise?

But the MM3 deals with it in the manner that the OE tune was written, and replaces the OE tune vs modifying it. I’ve never been a fan of changing the OE signals. It just not as clean or reliable as changing the tune.

Exactly. There is far more to a custom tune than total duration increase. The MM3 is far more advanced than the Quad in terms of total tuning, which is the point of a custom tune.

Negative per bbl is quite shocking. @Mopar1973Man Idaho stores are also limiting the number of people in the store and on each isle. It’s due to people not adhering to the simple 6’ distance. I’ve never liked people that close so it isn’t a big deal. When people are smarter there isn’t any limiting. Don’t try to go to Home Depot or Lowe’s for sprinkler parts right now. I’ve heard up to 50 people on one isle. That’s insane even without all this going on. Herd mentality.

I think your mileage is pretty good, there may be a little to be gained but without looking at the tune it's hard to tell. 45% over injectors shouldn't be too big for good mileage.

Those are the parameters that will need adjusted to tweak mileage. My best advice is to continue to work with your tuner, unless you want to start tuning it yourself.

That's an awesome truck! Who did your current tuning? I've done a fair amount of CR tuning, but haven't delved into the VP world as its fairly different.

No, been the same since ‘13. I’ll bet it’s 2WD. Yep, no front diff.

His knuckle is different too, it must be a DRW setup. The drag link attaches to the tie rod, but on my truck (and another one I just looked at in the parking lot) the drag link has its own attachment point on the knuckle. Found this online.. Hmmm. Just looked at a DRW, same as mine.

There is a little drain, but I don't like using it. I've never seen that steering setup thou. It looks OE, but not the same as my 18.

We have some local solar farms that adjust automatically in a similar fashion. Knowing where moparmans home is and the orientation of the valley I’m pretty sure they don’t ever face the opposite direction. However most photos he posts are from the house so I agree with @jag1 that it looks off, but it really can’t be.

They look to be facing south. Not sure the would work flipped north.

That makes sense as all the trailers I’ve worked on are spring over. I wonder what our trucks are. I are-torque the u-bolts with weights on the springs and got a bit more out of each nut. Ewww There is so much stuff out there that builds on quantity of quality. I was very happy with the look of the springs. They all measured out to be the same, but I wasn’t going 1/16” accurate, which will certainly add up. I’ll get some miles on it and look at the tires, the old way ?

The center bolt is how it was from the factory, and on every other set of leafs springs I’ve worked on. Round pin on top, nut on bottom. It fit perfect. The nut fits the perch, but I’m not sure it would fit the top plate but I have the old one and can go see. There isn’t much room for adjustment so I didn’t bother with an alignment. I’ve had good look with this company building their trailer frames true in the past, so hoping I get lucky. The frames are one of many reason I prefer Outdoors RV. They build their own frames, to the spec of the floor plan and overbuilt for dirt/gravel road use.

Trailer shock angles are based on the limited height between the axle plate and the top of the frame. The instructions mention a 45° angle and that's what the mounting plates are bent to. Mine are exactly at 45°, and part of why I had to modify the brackets. If I hadn't modified the brackets I would have been down near 30° and useless. The instructions show spring over axle installation but I think it's designed for spring under axle trailers more. Either way 45° angle is somewhat common in vehicles too. When I built a semi-custom rear suspension for my '95 4Runner back in college the shock bar I used put the shocks at 45° and it worked awesome. It allows for great dampening and more suspension travel per inch of shock travel. I did run the trailer thru full up to full down and I have a lot more shock travel than suspension travel.

All buttoned up. That’s with the truck in Alternate Ride Height mode. I’m quite happy with how it’s sitting. EDIT: added a pavement pic, looks even more level.

For offline maps I use Avenza on my phone. We occasionally take the laptop camping, but I haven’t used a computer based map software in 15 years.