AH64ID

I just measured my HE351CW stuff and my memory was correct. HE351CW comp 60x85, turbine 65x58. So the HE351W has a slightly smaller comp wheel, lager turbine wheel, and bigger exhaust housing. IMO, it should spool awesome cool a towing 350-375 rwhp easily and run great drive pressure. All in all great for the price.

Sorry, typo.. yes 58x85 vs 60x85 for the HE351CW/VE comp wheels. Did a little digging too. Looks like it's from the ISDe6 engine. The one I found is a 285hp 6.7L. Still looking for what that engine goes in thou. It's probably not a huge gain over a HX35, but it will be an improvement. @blueox01 should certainly be able to quantify the change.

I'll have to measure the one I have at home, but I am pretty sure the HE351CW uses a 60mm inducer and the HE341 (03-04 Cummins) had a 58mm inducer on the compressor and a 58mm exducer on the turbine wheel. This almost looks like a hybrid of the HE341's compressor wheel (58x65) and the HE351VE's turbine (70x60) wheel. The 70x60 turbine wheel makes a huge difference when installed on a HE351CW, so I presume this turbo would like it too!.

Not a lot if info on the HE351W vs HE351CW. Aside from a larger exhaust housing, what are the differences? Any idea what the OEM application is?

Which 2 did you do twice? I had to go look, because I couldn’t remember, but there are 26 studs/bolts.

It may depends on which version of the instructions you have. I don't think it matters too much if you don't back them out a little.

It's been part of the install since I did my 05 in 2011. No locktite. Can't recall the number, it's a few thou! No need to requote stock bolts, and no need for studs at 300 hp. The 6.7 uses bolts and is running 420/1075 for the MY21 motor, you're fine!

This photo is at my house in Kuna. The temp got down to -28°F that night but this is the coldest I got a photo of. I’m almost always colder than Boise, and even downtown Kuna. This morning was 7° at my house and 17° when I got to work at the airport. I’ve also seen temps in the -30°F range in Idaho in the last 15 years a couple times. Once on I-15 north of Dubois in December. The other elk hunting near Grace in Januay. Not all weather stations are at the coldest/hottest spots. That being said, I haven't been in any snow/ice storms anywhere near that cold. It's almost always very dry air at those temp.

Unless it was one of the less than 100 built, and then recalled, G56 trucks it won't have 4.10's... which is a good thing! Based on the gearing of the G-56AD I would recommend a tire taller than 265/70R17. The final drive ratio is like a NV4500/NV5600 with 4.10's. 255/80R17 is a great size and not large/heavy enough to do any additional front end wearing. I have a set of 3rd gen 17" wheels that I have been meaning to list to sale for dad. We can probably make a great deal. Still stuck with the crappy load rating of 17's thou at 3195/tire max. There are some grandfathered tires higher but they are not common anymore. I agree on pulling the front level if it's more than 1". Spare is a 3rd gen steel spare with a new 235/80R17 on it.

With moisture in the air it’s the same here. It’s funny how LED’s are cooler at the source of light, but much hotter at the connection due to the voltage regulation. Too bad that heat doesn’t make it into the housing. I did the LED swap on all my bulbs this fall. Love it! I used CSP Mini’s from GTR. No fan, no fitment issues (4th gen projectors are tight on low beam space), 2500lm each, and beautiful light patterns. I have the 9005 bulb in all 3 locations.

There is a benefit to low heat and cold snow, since the cold snow won't stick to the cold housing as easily as it would with a warm housing. When I look at aircraft icing, which is a much bigger deal than headlights since we can't pull over in the clouds, the general rule of thumb is that icing is most prominent at between 32°F and 14°F. It can occur as low as -4°F but that's less common. So if moisture is sticking to headlamps below -4°F it's due to the heat the headlamp is producing, and not the cold moisture. I know a guy who spent a lot of his life trapping near Fairbanks. His favorite temp was -10°F in the winter because nothing sticks to you and you don't get wet. Snow/frost/etc is too cold and has too little moisture to stick or get you wet. His observations go pretty close to what we're taught in Aviation.

When I did mine I did one at at time in 3 phases to 105 lbs. When they were all done I went back around in 3 passes with about 30 minutes between at 115 then 125. I then turned the block heater on for about 6 hours and re-did them at 125 and called it good. OEM bolt torque is about 105, so you are not increasing the torque on the gasket until all the bolts are replaced with studs.

Lots of people greasing their front sealed units thru the ABS hole and I can’t recall any with ABS issues. Just don’t overfill it.

Try finding reloading or shooting/hunting supplies....

Try a soft rest of the system. With the vehicle running press and hold the menu and volume (mute) buttons for ~30 seconds and release. If that doesn't work try a hard reset. Disconnect both batteries, BOTH, and touch pos/neg cables together. Then let is sit for 30 minutes. Be aware with this the truck can take a while to find all your options again, like XM, heated seats, folding mirrors, cargo camera, etc..

The pressures I was referring to were air bag pressures, not tire pressures. Yes the GVWR is 8800#, but that’s a meaningless number in many states including Idaho. Axle/tire limits are what determines the legal weight, mainly tires but axle limits do matter some. No issues going above GVWR in many many places. Are you saying that the camper is always in the truck? I’m not sure I know what you’re after, loaded or empty issues? Next time you’re out driving and pass a closed weight station pull in. The scales are almost always on. Ive done plenty of heavy hauling with a 1” level, it’s exponentially better than a 2” level when loaded. How much do you let the truck sag when you load the camper? Is the rocking with the camper or without? Or both? Does your truck have an anti-sway bar on the rear axle? If so, have you inspected the bushings?

Way too much air in the bags. Drop them to 5 psi at that weight. With your stock tires you shouldn’t ever need more than 50-60 psi, and that will be with tires nearing 100% load.

What is your RAW? 45-55psi seems like a lot unless your rear axle is near maxed out.

If the tires are wearing evenly then it's likely not ball joints. Take a good look at steering and tie rod for play. I am sure there are youtube videos of where to apply leverage to check for movement. On my 05 I did replace the OEM track bar bushings from mevotech when I did the steering. I don't think they were poly, but not 100%.

On my TJ it was the track bar and a new one solved the issue. Before spending the money I did go over everything and couldn't find anything loose, which is why I presumed it was the trackbar bushing. Many things can cause it thou. Do you run BFG AT's? They are the only tire I recall hearing that can contribute to DW.

How are your airbags plumbed? Separate or with a T? After nearly 15 years of owning rigs with airbags I’ve never had them provide side to side bounce. I always let my truck sag 1-1.5 over an empty/5psi stance and let it sit there. So I think something is amiss in your setup. I did feel my dads truck bounce side to side and it was from over inflation of the bags. Not enough weight was on the leaf springs. It was a drawback to his 2” level. Are you leveled? Do you let the OEM suspension sag to ensure it’s loaded too? As far as the overloads my 05 had them and they weren’t in play at my normal 1-1.5” sag. I thought about several ways to engage them and the idea I liked best was the torklift upper stableloads. I was concerned that they would provide jarring when the truck was empty thou, as rough roads would cause them to engage much sooner and under normal empty suspension cycling on FS roads. I never did buy them thou, as I never could actually justify them. I would routinely run at 7-7.5K on the rear axle and as high as 9K on rare occasion, thanks to my 19.5’s. None of that required more air than 90psi in the bags, and normally not more than 60 psi. That was all with a 1” level, a stock truck would have used less and sagged 2-2.5”. I don’t recommend a 2” level for these reasons. So, there are my thoughts. If you really want them then look at upper stableloads, but you shouldn’t need them.

Again, if Schwab admits it drives off and won’t redo the alignment then you should get your money back. Why didn’t they tell you the ball joints were worn the first time?

Just pointing out what it looks like from a bystander... it's not something I would want to experience, so it's not a place I'd likely go. Abe may very well be a great guy, and a great mechanic but you had multiple issues. Just like you like NAPA parts and I won't shop there unless it's a last resort. Too many issues over the years.

I’ll be honest, with what you have gone thru on your NV4500 since they first touched it has taken them off my list of places to go. I get bad luck, but you have had more than your fare share of it since the first rebuild. Something doesn’t add up.

I would talk to the manager at Schwab again, they have a warranty on their alignment. Tell them what they did isn’t working correctly. If they refuse ask for your money back.