AH64ID

I haven’t heard that too much, and not a lot of guys I know run them to get an idea. Most the guys I know running them don’t have 100K on them. I’m sure the one I had has over 100K on it now, and haven’t heard of any issues. It did make a small bump in warm oil pressure, and nothing cold since the oil pressure relive valve is open. Spooled great, thou I wouldn’t have shy’d away from a slightly smaller turbine housing for a little better low rpm spoon at elevation. It lowered my overall boost, but made more power at lower EGT’s. Basically, it moved air thru the motor more efficiently and didn’t have the restriction on the intake from the exhaust, so more airflow are lower boost. Lower boost means less heat for the intercooler to remove. The biggest benefit was the water cooled center section thou, as they have several benefits for turbo longevity. There are several new journals options available today that weren’t out yet when I bought the Garret so I’m not sure I’d go that route again, but it’s possibly. I liked that turbo. The 18 is keeping the stock turbo thou.

Even with a LSD the wheels will generally spin opposite directions. If you have to spend any money on the carrier I’d upgrade to a Tru-Trac. It will make any clutch style LSD’s whimper in shame. Helical gear LSD’s are better in nearly every scenario, aside from zero wheel speed. It’s unlikely I’d ever spend money on a clutch style LSD, unless it was to remove it.

@Mopar1973Man do you have a drive pressure gauge? Have you dyno’d that rig? 500 to the ground is a HOT tune with that turbo, curious how much your making with it set WFO Most efficient turbos run 1.3-1.5:1 drive:boost, meaning 45 psi of boost is going to be pushing 60 psi drive on most efficient turbos. Some less efficient turbos, like the HE351CW will run 2:1 or more. Rpms also play a big role, 45 psi at 2200 rpms will have a lot lower drive pressure than at 3000 rpms. I ran a Garrett BB turbo on my 05 that was 1:1 or less most the time, and the highest I think I ever saw it was ~1.2:1, but that’s BB and a large exhaust housing. Journal bearing turbos generally run tighter housings and more drive pressure. So, without a drive pressure gauge I would say that unless your exceeding 45 psi or stock rpms then you’re probably fine. I ran 103# springs on my 05 but never needed them for boost or drive pressure, but the cam/exhaust brake combo needed them and would run ~75 psi while slowing.

I’m looking into them. The 25GPM rating isn’t something you see on higher quality fuel filters in these sizes (1-14”), so I am inclined to think they are rebadged WIX but I’ll let you know when I get a solid answer. FWIW, there aren’t many applications where I would ever recommend a WIX fuel filter. I have yet to see one that meets the same filtration specs as the cross they are designed for, sometimes even worse than the minimum filtration required by a manufacturer such as the 03-07 5.9 CR.

Honestly it’s more of a “time for a new engine” light. Minimum pressure is 10 psi at idle... so if the light is on for a lack on oil pressure a rebuild isn’t far off.

what filters do you run now? There are different size threads over the years so I need to know what filters fit to make a recommendation. Sadly many of the FASS, and AirDog, setups end up with worse filtration than stock. For most people deleting the stock filter provides negatIve effects. I’ve never seen a filter setup that can match the flow of the pumps moving more than 95GPH. Which model FASS do you have? And what filters are on it?

You should get a “check gauges” if the oil pressure drops below 6 psi. On a 3rd gen it takes 30 seconds below 6 psi, not sure on a 2nd gen.

Merry Christmas everyone!!

You are far from the expert you think you are...yet you are so confident that you refuse to spend the 3 minutes required to educate yourself. There are even photos of the Tesla charger on the wall at Heartland Inn, and a car charging at the RV park... Same thing with the super 8 in grangeville. They are genuine Tesla chargers, period. Just because you haven’t seen it yourself does not mean it doesn’t exist, it seemly means you haven’t seen it. So the real chuckle is at your ignorant post. smh

You just changed the filters, did you need to unplug a WIF sensor to do that?

Same question, how did you get a WIF light with a deleted WIF sensor? AD= Air Dog

Great movie! The people that run out of electricity would run out of gas too. They figure 300 miles in town is the same as 300 miles in the mountains. Lots of places to top off your battery bank, you just have to plan on it like towing thru the mountains. https://www.plugshare.com

Which filters are on the AD?

If they take that erroneous zero off the price tag I’d buy it sight unseen. I’d love a clean 93 extra cab manual, especially in that paint scheme. I’ve never cared much for the P pump, but really like a VE. Still a bit pissed my brother traded his in 06. I’d have bought it for 150% of what he traded it for but he only told me about it after the deal was made. Saw that truck a couple years ago, beat to crap...what a waste.

Blocking the turbo is the best way to shut it down. A thick piece of metal or large piece of wood. There isn’t a load on the engine so the rpms climb quickly, which is what damages the engine. Minimal load means minimal exhaust, which won’t overdrive the turbo rpms.

I’ve also never seen a NIB turbo with any evidence of being pressure tested.

Shipping is hard. I had two backordered orders ship from Midway on Monday. I got the shipping notifications within minutes. One arrived last Thursday, and one that just now sent me a delivery notification.

Well I guess that answers that, bummer!! I wonder if the lack of oil smell was due to the colder exhaust and it not burning..... or, are you sure you can smell, it is 2020 after all

It didn't sound like it was misfiring, but if you have a fuel leak that could be the culprit. Are you sure it's oil in the exhaust, and not soot soaked condensation?

Injectors were changed more than 2 years ago, very very doubtful that this has anything to do with them. Doesn't look or sound like air in the fuel lines, but also doesn't look like coolant or oil to me. Truck isn't hot enough to burn oil leaking into the exhaust at idle on a cold start. Why did it sit for 2 months? Something break, or just waiting on parts?

Yes you can. My 05 didn’t like it, and it left a residue in the tailpipe. I wouldn’t want that on my turbo vanes.

I grew up during a 92 light K2500 and a 93 K1500 burb, both with TBI 350’s. It was rare to get more than 15mpg, even trying. Dad sold the 93 for a 97 K2500 burb with a 454. 11-13 empty, and 4-7 towing... but it had great power. After he put headers/exhaust on it the milage could touch 14 empty. Made it to 325K, lost the engine and trans in the same day and unrelated. Should have bought it to stuff the power train in a K5. Years ago we were moving my folks from MT back to WA. My brother had a 06 QC LB 2500 Hemi and a 7x16 enclosed trailer. He towed it empty to MT at 12 mpg or lower. I towed it back to WA full at 14 in my 05 QC LB 5.9. Kinda funny.

I made it from Kuna to E Wenatchee to Kuna on one tank this summer, 853 miles. I even had 6 gallons to spare. Sure do love this 55 gallon tank

I know 2020 feels like it's lasting forever, but January of 2017 is just shy of 4 years ago...not 30

Same thing, great spool and good drive pressure. It can support more hp non-towing since the max load isn't usually sustained for as long.