AH64ID

This is how it looked in my 05.

I had one and hated it. It wasn’t a good scan location and always fell down. I probably could have fixed the falling issue but the location sealed the deal on my dislike. I sold it and got a triple dash pod and loved it. At 6.4” it didn’t obstruct any view, was in my forward scan area, and looked sharp. The wife is 5’8” and I don’t recall it blocking any of her view.

Minus the clunk that is how clutch LSD’s have worked for me. I find they engage when you don’t want them to, such as on ice, and don’t when you need them. I have ran multiple versions of clutch style LSD’s and I find them all the same, overrated and predictably unpredictable. I’ve never ran a auto locker as I’ve never had a dedicated trail rig, and even if I did I’d probably run a selectable.

Having ran clutch style, helical style, and selectable locker differentials I will say this. Helical or selectable, period. I friggin hate clutch style LSD’s, they are unpredictable and dangerous on ice. Helical gear are great for most situations, aside from being stopped and needing traction. They require some sort of movement to transfer torque, which can be an issue. Selectable's are amazing, open when unlocked and locked when needed. There is nothing white like an open differential for lateral traction on snow and ice. Long story short, I think you will really like the tru-trac’s. They have a great reputation front and rear.

That’s only big on size, not on flow. That’s pretty dismal on flow, as most BHAF’s are. An HX35 can flow nearly 600 CFM, and a HE351(5.9 and 6.7 OEM turbo) is over 800CFM.

150hp nozzles and a mild tune is a lot of fuel on a CR as even the smallest tune adds fuel over stock. You should look into custom tuning. In many cases the power desired can be obtained with less than stock duration, which means a quicker cleaner burn and plenty of power. My previous 05 dyno'd 425/850 with ~80% stock duration and BBi Stage 1's. It had a lot more power left in it, still below stock duration, but it was a tow pig. I could run 70 mph up a 5% grade at 7K feet on a 75° day at 20K GCW, in 6th gear and not break 1250°.

@Mopar1973Man no VP on a 03. @Fumminsman there is something wrong for sure. Have you done a compression check? Calibrate your speed, as it's pretty easy with the Touch. What settings on the touch? What are your cruise EGT's like? Cruise boost? How about WOT boost/EGT's. Even your 04 needs some help, 1900° isn't good. Either you have your tuning really messed up or something is going on, I'd figure that out before getting twins as that might just be a bandaid.

I’d go B&W. American made, amazing customer service and as well built as anything. I’ve owned a couple Curt products and they always seem cheaply made.

Sure there will be minor differences, but thinking that airflow will be that different is pretty far fetched. Consider that I had a blanket on my manifold and turbine, a water cooled turbo, and a wrapped down pipe and a stock truck will run hotter... especially a stock 3rd gen 6.7, deleted will be closer to stock 5.9 temps. We all know how much you love your BHAF on a 2nd gen, but they are a waste of money and a decrease in performance on a 3rd gen. People have been there and done that, it’s history at this point.

Not to put another thought in there, but Cat doesn’t have a 2um filter. 2um hasn’t been a rating since 2004. Their commonly called 2um is 4um. The FF5814 is the most modern and best filter in that sizing. It’s 3um and has the NanoNet media. If the filter is clean is shouldn’t have a noticeable impact on pressure. I pushed thru 3 filters with my stock in-tank and saw the same pressure as guys with 1 filter. What Fleetguard did you order?

As mentioned, I don’t think the temps are much higher... I know they are.

I’ve ran thermometers on the outside of my air box on the 05. I don’t recall the specific temps, but it was eye opening for how well the OEM intake pulls outside air since I could compare it to the AAT on the MM3.

Unless your power demands it go with the 100. The 150 can easily outflow your filters, which isn’t worth it IMHO.

I haven’t heard anything different about the specs on a 19+ pump vs the 03-18 in tank pumps. They are reliable, cheap, and provide plenty of fuel for a common rail engine, but as @dripleymentioned they don’t have the same requirements as a VP44 truck. A CP3 needs flow, not pressure. Bosch specs are -5 to +15 psi. A CP3 truck runs at about 10 idle, 7-8 cruise, and 4-7 under load. Too low for a VP based on what I’ve been told.

Moved to 2nd gen. Multiple members here have several hundred thousand miles on their 2nd gens. Simplicity and lower power output make for long lives. If the truck has been maintained it shouldn’t be an issue. Look the whole truck over, not just the drivetrain. I’d be more nervous about the Dodge components than the Cummins ones. Frame rot/rust/cracks, etc. Sheet metal and suspension, stuff like that.

I would look for a used OEM air box, it may not be that hard to find. I'd even go the sealed S&B route over a BHAF. The underhood temps are much higher than you want to ingest on that body style.

That reads as 4,000 lumens per set, so 2000 per bulb. Which is well within what I have found for fanless bulbs. My 9005's are 1700-1870 lumens (2 different styles), so 2000 lumens/bulb isn't much of an upgrade for me. The bulbs I am looking at are 2500 lumen/bulb and fanless for the high beams/fogs and 3600 lumen/bulb with a fan for the low beams. They are all 6000K, which is more inline with the color I'm looking for.

It can certainly be the ECM but that’s a rare occurrence compared to faulty cables.

Alternator feeds the passenger battery and the ECM reads the drivers battery. If the alternator voltage isn’t making it to the drivers battery you will have an overcharge of the passenger side. The crossover cable is a common cause if the voltage is different between batteries. The fuseable link if the voltage is the same. Do not use an external voltage regulator, you have other issues to fix.

I’m about to pull the trigger for my 4th gen. I’m finding most bulbs above 2500lm have fans. Both my housings take 9005’s, but the high beam area is small and can only take a small bulb. The 9005 CSP mini by GTR is what I’ll likely go with for high beams and the Headlight Revolution V4 for the low beam.

I put AT3 XLT’s last fall before elk camp and have been very happy with them. They have great handling empty and loaded to 100-105%, oops. Very quiet and good traction for an AT in all conditions. They also have the 3PMSF snow rating, which when I was researching last summer wasn’t common among AT tires in that size. I do vary my pressure based on load and in the winter only run about 30 is the rear empty. Right now are sitting at 55/35.

I did that on my 05 right before selling it, should have done it much sooner.

I had similar results on my 05 CR with B20. Noticeable change in engine noise but I never saw any power change. Power should actually decrease as there are fewer BTU's but I always got better than average mileage on the stuff in summer... winter was another story and I'll never do that again.

There are some live changes available with WARP, since you'd delete for the older truck, but not all parameters can be changed on the fly. I'd suggest downloading WARP and seeing what you think of the demo program.

With EFI it shouldn't really be all that hard to do the deletes and turn off the codes, there should be a menu for trouble codes. I haven't played with EFI in a few years thou, so I don't recall the exact setup. I'm a much bigger fan of the MM3 and UDC Pro/Warp, especially for daily driven rigs. There are more tables in UDC/Warp to tweak. The tuner should still be able to get you a good daily driving/economy tune, thou they do take more finesse than a max power tune.