AH64ID

I wouldn’t need a kit, but I am looking into LED 9005’s.

I used to be able to find them local making a few phone calls and custom orders, but the price wasn't worth it. I get them by the pair on amazon for $12ish.

So now the only way to state a spec is good or bad is by oil related failures? An oil spec doesn't have to cause catastrophic failure to not be the best spec, nor is it hype. It's great that CJ is not longer the spec . It certainly worked but it wasn't great. There is a reason that CI is still made by a few manufacturers and CJ isn't. Plenty of info on how CK is an improved oil, simple as that.

No, Assuming your sig truck is what you plan to run it in. CI is a great oil, much better than CJ. CK is finally a little better but not enough to not run CI. CI won’t work on anything with a DPF thou. I ran CI in my 05 until CK came out.

CI-4.... that could be more than a few years old There are still a few of them out there, but not many and not by any big name brands that I’m aware of.

Here is a good article talking about Group III, most common "synthetic" in the US, and Group IV. https://recondoil.com/synthetic-oil-guide/ another good article.. it's on amsoils site but doesn't seem to push much more than basic info. https://blog.amsoil.com/how-much-synthetic-is-in-my-oil/ Most run of the mill synthetics are Group III Redline is a Group IV Amsoil is a Group IV, aside from OE and XL line Most conventional oils are Group II, most synthetics are Group III. Group III does preform better than Group II, but there isn't a set standard on how much has to be modified to make it a Group III so resutls will vary between oils. Group IV will outpreform Group II and Group III. Now at the end of the day the average user will likely not see much of a difference. Operation in extreme temps is a big benefit to Group IV as well as extended intervals. All modern oils are pretty darn good. I run a Group III Amsoil in my Jeep and Group IV Amsoils in my Ram and 4Runner.

Yes, synthetic resists breakdown better as well has holds its grade better in extreme temp. Not all synthetics are created equal thou, as some are barely a synthetic but can carry the same label as a full synthetic.

Delo 400 15w-40 is great oil and if I ever run dino oil it's my preference. I'm an Amsoil user/dealer but I don't push it... there isn't a point. If people want to run it they will ask questions or send PM's, of which I get plenty. In my 05 I ran Delo after a rebuild for 10K miles and then switched back to Amsoil. I will tell you that Delo runs hotter and at lower pressure under load than Amsoil, it also is a fair amount slower to build pressure below 20°F and based on a freezer test I wouldn't ever want to subject my motor to a cold start below 0°F with it. That being said the lower pressures and higher temps were nowhere near a limit, just something I noticed. I monitored oil temp in the filter head and oil pressure in the cam journal above the ECM. The biggest reason I run Amsoil is the 12 month oil changes, which are becoming more normal on dino too. The 2nd biggest reason is that I want an full synthetic for year round oils, and I prefer a 15w-40 over a 5w-40 for several reasons. It's hard to beat the reduced down time and single change with great summer/winter performance out of a full synthetic 15w-40.

You could certainly save some down time with extended OCI's. I would start with a 10K mile oil sample and if it's good run it out to 12 months. Depending on your duty cycle you might be able to go longer. With the duty cycle you have been running the last couple years you would have been a great candidate for 25K mile synthetic oil changes to save cost and down time... but we both know that won't happen Of course your duty cycle should be vastly different going forward thou.

You certainly can extend your intervals with synthetic. I run 12 month changes and don’t worry about mileage, thou it’s not over 15K miles these days. Besides extended life synthetic offers much better protection in hot/cold extremes. I did a freezer test a few years ago and was shocked at how thick 15w-40 dino becomes at -5 to -10°F.. well above it’s pour point. I’ve also noticed that dino gets much thinner when hot and towing compared to the same grade synthetic towing the same loads. How many miles do you drive in a year? There isn’t a better filter than the Donaldson BDL7349 and I recommend it regardless of the oil you decide to run.

I don’t see a 13+ turbo from ATS. I’ve also heard some pretty bad things about their customer service. If you’re only running 800-900° while towing, assuming pre-turbo, you’re getting plenty of air. A mild fleece might be the best choice, but I wouldn’t go too much bigger than stock our you’ll lose some towing and low end spool. Have you asked Gecovey? Since he wrote your tunes I’d see what he thinks too.

Yeah it’s not easy. I had to wait a week or so for mine, but I had the time. Were you able to find races too?

I did all 4 corners of the 5th wheel earlier this spring. I had a hard time finding anyone that stocked US Timken bearings, goes to show the sad state of affairs when no one wants quality or US made for just a couple bucks more. Anyhow, finally found a place in Nampa that could get them from the warehouse. It’s not a bad job, and well worth the time to ensure it’s safe to go on a road trip.

How's it going?

Awesome!

That sounds like a wiring issue, which could potentially be causing the NO BUS issue depending on where the short to ground is.

It’s possibly vibration induced. If you messed with connections and got a temp fix look there again. Im still betting its related to the connector issue. The drivers rear window is likely the door harness. They are known to have brittle wires. I had to replace both the ones on my 05 around 110-120K mile. The speakers were the first thing I noticed, then locks. Each failure is different thou.

33-35 psi from that turbo should be better than 33-35 psi from the stock turbo, I'd start there and see how it does. The compressor map shows that the K27 can push peak air, 52 lb/min, from a PR of 2.8 to 3.8, or 26 to 41 psi as sea level and 21 to 33 psi at 6,000 feet.

Looks great! For heavy pulling on what appear to be stock head bolts I’d set it around 33-35 and see what you get for EGT’s on grades. What where you making with the stock turbo? It is possible to increase airflow and reduce boost, so this turbo might move more air at a lower pressure.

Are you going RTG to RTG? I just ask because on my 05, and others, it wouldn't accept RTG to RTG. I could flash a single RTG but then had to shutoff before flashing another. It wouldn't fully flash.

There are several things in there that could easily lead to a failed BUS, even if delayed. While the data connector seems like a likely culprit it's older that I would expect to create an issue, so lets work new to old. The stereo is on the BUS and can cause issues. How long is not too long ago? The crossover cable is a known weak point at this age, but the equal voltage generally rules that out. The fan should always spin, but at idle it shouldn't have much resistance against it on a cool day with the AC/defrost off. With heavy gloves I was able to stop the one in my 05 easily, thou I've heard auto's can't always stop it. Long story short, look at the stereo install and then the damage caused by arcing at the data connector.... and by data connector I presume you mean OBDII as the SJR only uses the OBDII and not the data port. Have you scanned for codes with the SJR?

I don't see anything to adjust TPS voltage, or anything that I would even remotely consider as capable of creating a hardware code. @3jks05 when you switch from tunes 1-4 is it a RTG flash or a full retune? @Me78569 what do you think the VP/ECM would do if you tuned the timing table without knowledge of the base table? Could it buck if it hits the max timing advance? I expect bucking and APPS codes from modules, not from programmers. This is perplexing, but I'm a 5.9 CR guy and not as much of a VP guy.

As Michael said the communications bus is down. It could be a failed computer or a loose connection. Any recent maintenance that could have loosened a connector?

Glad she is doing you well. Are those OEM OCI’s for the trans and engine? They seem awefully short for a modern engine/trans.

Sorry to hear about all that has been going on, but I am happy to hear it wasn't worse. New rig and a new camper... things aren't going to turn out that bad. You even have a truck load of firewood that will bring you immense joy to burn. Stay safe and positive.