AH64ID

Syncromesh is NOT supposed to meet the GL-4 rating, so that’s a good thing. Don’t try to make it meet a spec it’s not designed for. Not to mention GL-4 isn’t a thickness spec and there are GL-4’s the same thickness as syncromesh. Thickness and GL spec are 2 different things, which is why they are both printed on the bottle. As @dripleymentioned overfill has nothing to do with the lube thickness. IIRC, overfill was highly recommended in early models, the later ones had a hole drilled that moved more fluid to the rear bearing. Many rebuild shops also add this hole if it wasn’t there originally.

I’m running thuren specs on my ‘18. I didn’t go anywhere fancy for my alignment, just Commercial Tire.

Sweet, I think that's a perfect injector for how you use your truck. If you have to drive by the pyro have you tried a lower Edge setting? Since you can't go WOT you may as well turn it down to where you can, as you end up with the same usable power. Or are there other features of the higher settings you like?

Bummer! Have you called them? I found them in stock at a couple online retailers with just a quick search.

The 5.9 and 6.7 in 2007 have lots in common with their cooling systems, aside from the routing of the water cooled turbo. I would look at your setup and see how the overflow bottle is plumbed into it. You might also want to look at a early 4th gen, as they were split tanks and still ran a radiator cap. There isn't a radiator cap on the later 4th gens, so the bottle will be different there too.

Exactly... fuel that is refined with higher Cetane is not the same as pump #2 that has Cetane booster added to it. Many fuel stations these days winterize their fuel chemically instead of blending #1 into it. This will also have an effect on the BTU's, in a positive way, over blending.

It depends on the MY and engine. The 07.5 is a 6.7L and the photo you posted is a 5.9L. There was also a slight difference, from what I recall, on the 03-04 5.9's vs the 04.5-07's.

The instructions will have a minimum psi in them. Either 5 or 10 based on what I’ve seen.

As others have said do not combine them with a T. Nearly everyone I know that has been unhappy with airbag performance has been unhappy for two reasons, 1 is plumbed together, the other is overinflating them. Keeping the separate not only allows for side-side adjustment but it's also a form of vehicle anti-sway as the spring rates change as you go into a corner making the outside spring stiffer and the inside spring softer. In terms of air pressure be sure you are letting the leaf springs still carry some payload. Let the truck sag 1-1.5" and then use the airbags to keep it there. The will provide the best ride and vehicle stability while towing.

White smoke is uncombusted fuel, so it's likely not tuning if it's just 1 cylinder doing it.

How old are the fuel filters? Does he know there are 2 to replace?

Springs and pushrods will be fine stock, but at the upper edge. If you plan in additional rpms then get springs and pushrods. I used Hamilton 103# Springs and their mid level pushrods. I also used their 178/208 cam. It was a major improvement over stock, but the 3rd gen cam isn’t the same as a 2nd gen. Then again it was a noticeable improvement over a colt cams stage 1, which is a better cam than a stock 2nd gen. So it comes down to the money you want to spend. You won’t be disappointed if you get a mild cam. Don’t go too big for a DD thou. If you do a cam also do springs and pushrods, IMO.

Not surprised on the code, as I mentioned earlier my buddies 2010 set a code too.

Even if it sets a code you can take it to your friendly local auto parts store and borrow a code reader.

Take the solid fuel rail bolt out, it will cause long term issues. Have the crossover tubes been retorqued? Do you have anything to monitor load, rail pressure (desired and actual), boost?

AT3 XLT's on Laramie wheels!! It's one of the best looking combo's out there, but I am slightly biased. The AT3 is a great tire.

Have you talked to the shop that did the HG?

Most modern engines turn the oil black very quick, even ones that have EGR missing. It’s also a function of modern oil making soot stay suspended and harder to filter.. but that also means it does less damage. I’ve heard you can build a block off plate for the EGR tube too.

It will set a CEL, at least it did on my buddies 2010. No other effects thou.

Yes reducing the EGR is a great idea, if you are able to. Duty cycle helps with that too.

Yes the trucks with DEF have much better reliability with the emissions equipment. The pre-DEF trucks use a LOT of EGR which clogs the intake and causes more frequent regens. Best thing you can do if you plan to keep it stock is to try to avoid short trips. The harder it works the better it does. Clean the turbo if you are unsure if it's been cleaned or not. It would also be a good idea to pull the intake and clean the grid heater and intake area. Otherwise there isn't much you can do to a stock truck.

love it. All my rigs, aside from the Jeep, have had one. And they probably always will. They are made by sunshade.

We heard horrid stories about slides before buying one. Not a single slide issue in 9 years. Simply lube the mechanism and go camp.

What’s your tongue weight? Our last TT was 30’ and it towed rock solid all the one. 70 mph with a 30-40 crosswind wasn’t a big deal, 1 finger driving. It ran 14-17% tongue weight thou.

It’s rough time to buy RV’s right now. Used prices are absurd and there isn’t a lot of new inventory. As far as brands I wouldn’t buy anything keystone. Jayco is a great middle of the road camper and hard to beat in terms of quality:price. The Nash family of campers is my personal preference. That includes Northwood MFG (Nash, Arctic Fox, Fox Mountain, Snow River, Desert Fox, Wolf Creek) and Outdoors RV MFG. They have the best frames in the industry and are built for rugged camping. We’ve had a couple of TT’s and now have the 5th wheel. We prefer the 5th wheel but the TT’s were great too. I wouldn’t want a TT much longer than 32-34’. Buying new can have issues but what if you buy used and those issues weren’t addressed when new. We’ve bought both TT’s new and it wasn’t but a trip or two in for warranty work. The 5th wheel was used and there are a few things that should have been warranty work but it’s waaay to late now. Backwards plan from where you want to camp to what kind of RV you get.