AH64ID

The wife is sending me teaser pics...

Sounds like it could be a injector sticking, or bad ground. Possibly ring issues too. But you said it all started with the starter and batteries. Pull the batteries out and look for loose grounds, clean the grounds, make sure all the connections are tight.

Yes that would be better for the batteries.

Personally I’d want something with a controller. I also park my truck in the shop so that wouldn’t work. I will say that after a short trip I’m surprised how long it takes the charger to say the battery is at 100%.

The larger battery bank will deal with the short trips better as it has a larger capacity; however, you will still have to put the same amount of energy back into the batteries as before. If you weren't getting enough miles to fully recharge before you still won't be. Maybe a trickle charger for when parked is a good idea.

Even if you don’t feel/hear the alternator with the grid heater post-heat cycle it’s doing the same amount of work. Amps are amps, and the grids pull the same regardless of what batteries are installed. It may reduce the sudden pull, but it’s still the same amount of power. You did the mod beautifully, but I’m just not sure it’s worth it. Group 65’s will fit with fewer mods, really just hold down spacer as they are shorter. Last I looked you can increase AH and CCA’s with a 65 over a 27.

Yeah I'll get some photos. The skid plates are still out of stock so it looks like I'm waiting another week or so... guess I'll put some fuel in the truck.

If you have a 13-18 2500 or 14-18 2500 you are probably aware of this recall for the steering linkage. The standard fix is to weld the adjustment nuts, something I won't let them do on my truck. I have been trying to get FCA to just replace the drag link with the updated one... to no avail. I recently learned the part number and have ordered the part and will submit for reimbursement. It's cheap too, $132 to my door. 68338342AB or 68338342AD So if any one else is in the same boat this is a better alternative to welding.

The skid plate wasn't in stock... They think it should all ship out to me tomorrow. It's an Idaho company so it shouldn't take long to cross the bottom of the state. I pulled into the shop today on E, so I'm ready to drop the tank. I have a fuel station 1.1 miles from the house if I need to use the truck first.

Go back to where you started.. batteries and starter. Also disconnect the Banks, and find a new mechanic!!! -7° of timing might be correct depending on rpm/load. Besides, that wouldn’t tell you a bad cam/crank position sensor as it would read/show you the same thing. I don’t see any reason for reflashing or replacing the ECM, but this is also remote diagnosing. Check all the connections, especially grounds. Check the torque on the crossover tubes. what injectors did you go with? white or black smoke?

Different tire, I think he was just showing the tread for similarities.

Well I broke down and ordered a replacement fuel tank for my truck. I got a decent price with free shipping and military discount.. but it's still OUCH. Thank you tax return. I didn't think that 3 fewer gallons would be noticeable, but let me tell you that it really is! I'm not quite sure what Ram was thinking here.. but I gather it's fixed for 2020 with an optional 50 gallon OEM tank. Towing last summer I got ±.5 mpgs as my 05 did on the same roads/speeds but found myself needing to get fuel in remote towns to make it between big towns...inconvenient and got me thinking about a larger tank. Hard to justify the cost just for this thou and it takes along time to pay for the tank at $0.30/gal different. Then I went elk hunting and the '18 sure does drink a LOT more fuel at low speeds than the '05... nearly double. I averaged just over 7 for the duration of the hunt vs ~10 in the '05, I was getting around 4 on the drive out vs 8-9 on the 05 (23K GCW on slow dirt roads). I attribute most of that to the auto and an unlocked torque converter. I ended up adding 15 gallons from cans and was still nervous on the drive out. So I decided I would bite the bullet this spring and get the 55 gallon tank. 23 extra gallons should be plenty! It should be here sometime soon and I'll likely install it as soon as I burn thru this current tank of fuel. I'll make sure to post up some pics of the install and before/after ground clearance changes. With the skid-plate it should hang about 2.75" below the stock tank.

Where can you find them for that price? Rinky dink cheap Chinese car tires aren’t even that cheap. I’d be rather skeptical.

@Gregturley Take a look at the AT3 LT, it comes in that size. I guess the XLT is the slightly larger size series of the same tire. Minor sidewall differences. http://us.coopertire.com/tires/discoverer-at3-lt

Currently running Cooper AT3 XLT’s. They are 3PMSF rated and carry a mileage warranty. So far I’m happier with them than any other tire I’ve run on my trucks. I looked at the Falkens but they don’t have as good of mileage warranty and the price difference was small. The Coopers are also US made.

I was doing my Jeeps cooling system at this time last year... still going strong. I also did LED lights and WOW! Great cheap upgrade.

Sorry for your loss Michael.

You need to fix those codes. Are they new since the injector install? I would guess you gave loose connections or a bad wiring harness. All of it is in the vicinity of the injector install, and could have been damaged during install if they are new codes.

We’re in the process of transitioning from a TT to a 5th wheel. For full timing I would prefer a 5th wheel as the living area and bedroom are more separate giving it a better feel. While 5th wheels do put more weight on the truck they also tow shorter and easier. Based on how we used the TT and ATV rack I’ll be lighter on the truck RAW with a 5er. We can double tow here so when we want to take the ATV’s we’ll do that. As others have stated the roof is important. Look for a 4 season unit. It will be much more comfortable in extreme temps, hot or cold. If I were looking for an older 5th wheel to full time in it would be an Arctic Fox. Built well, w/d hookups in many models, and plenty of room.

For your sake I home you're correct... but something isn't right. You've had more troubles with the trans in the last little bit than most ever will. You have a receipt showing all new syncro's from last fall... Parts, Fluid,. builder, etc... something is causing you excessive downtime. I hope you figure it out sooner than later, it's a lot of time and money to be wasting.

Dude, you can’t win on that transmission. Is he using cheap synchros? Clutch issues? Fluid issues? Something isn’t right. I think I’d be letting them do the R&R.

Great news! It’s good to save some money and support local!!

Dad ran posi loks on a 92 K2500 and then a 97 2500 suburban. We bought the kit for the 92 at the sportsman’s show in Seattle from the original designer/owner. Great products.

Nope. CAD came back in 2013. It’s reported it came back for a ~1 mpg raise. Not sure I buy it. When I went with hubs on my 05 I didn’t see any increase. I'm not a huge CAD fan, and prefer how ford does their hubs.

No it would not be visible. Jack up the passenger and spin a tire. See if the driveshaft rotates. Also, is there an additional cable? The PO could also have installed a posi-lok.