AH64ID

Since it's based on the same block as the 5.9 I would assume (here we go) that it's just like this... What are you trying to do?

Depending on the torch that may be a bit cold, or you had a loose connection. Give it a try and see what happens, maybe it had too much soot on it. When was the last time you gave her hell and saw some good EGT's?And the noise was????

It must be a 4th gen thing with the black fuel lines. Yours looks just like mine. Top is supply, middle is return, bottom (black) is brake.

The fuel supply line on my buddies '10 was black. Really a photo would be huge.

You have the pre-stepper motor gauge, I agree with trying a new probe. Get a type K thermocouple with the two nut connections like you have now. Any type K should work, but I would call ISSPRO for ease of getting the correct part number.

It says the same thing as Michael's.

quickserve According to your ESN you got a 180°. [TABLE=class: box] [TR] [TD]Standard Modulating Thermostat - Range[/TD] [TD]84 to 91°C [184 to 195°F][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Maximum Allowed Operating Temperature[/TD] [TD]100°C [212°F][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]Minimum Recommended Operating Temperature[/TD] [TD]71°C [160°F][/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] ISX's ESN states Standard Modulating Thermostat - Range [TABLE=class: box, width: 700] [TR] [TD]B3.9, B4.5 and B5.9[/TD] [TD]82 to 93°C [180 to 199°F][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] Maximum Allowed Operating Temperature [TABLE=class: box, width: 700] [TR] [TD]B3.9, B4.5 and B5.9[/TD] [TD]102°C [215°F][/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] My 05 is Standard Modulating Thermostat - Range Automotive Applications With EGR88 to 97°C [190 to 207°F] With EGR107°C [225°F]

It's a pretty good gig

I am a Maintenance Test Pilot in the AH-64D Apache Helicopter for the Idaho Army National Guard. I have been in the Guard for 10+ years, and plan to stick it out for another 20 or so...

I am going thru the same thing, but narrowed mine down to the gauge itself. Anyhow ISSPRO sells type K thermocouples, pull yours and see how it looks. Is yours a true mechanical pyro, or does it have a elec stepper motor?

I would change it, that's similar to what mine did before I changed it.

For the same reason you made the comment, many people think boost is hp. I'm quite happy running stock boost with +100 hp and better EGT's :-)

I can't really compare it to anything else but Amsoil works for me. My dad has used it for 20+ years, and his parts usually last longer than average and he has hardly owned anything that hasn't been chipped (Chevy 5.7, 7.4), tuned (06 CTD), or turbo'd (6.2 Burb). He isn't a hard driver, just runs a little more power and does plenty of towing.

Maybe it's a CR only thing, but on a CR you have to loosen the FD to get the belt on/off.

I considered a FD for a few years, just could never justify it. I recently went with a 6.7 damper, which is a viscous fluid like the FD, but 1/2 the cost and lets you change the belt without removing it. Reports are the 6.7 isn't quite as good as the FD, but about 80% as good.

We did some camping up in that area last year, it's a great area!

Since this is in the CR section, stock is 190°, with full open being 207°, max allowed 225°.I see a 2nd gen in your sig and they are 180° with full open being at 198°, max allowed 212°.

They say a photo is worth 1000 words... I only recall 2 on mine, the 3rd could be a brake line??The CP3 and injector return lines merge into one at the fuel filter housing.

That's different. Turbo bark only occurs when going from a WOT to zero throttle position in conjunction with a rpm drop.

Hard start when warm can point to injectors. I would take it to them warm, drag the tech or service manager outside and show them.

I get funny looks with my 400+ rwhp and 30-32 psi and great EGT's :-)

Woot!!

That's excellent mileage, I have yet to break 20 in my 05 and I don't drive too hard and have many mods that help mileage.

It's turbo bark, which is the backflow of air thru the compressor. I am not sure the turbo spins backwords thou. The wastegate is out of the equation when you let off the throttle. What happens is the turbo is moving a lot of air and all of a sudden the drive pressure disappears, but the boost pressure doesn't. If this is coupled with a loss of rpms there is a need for the air to go somewhere and back out the compressor it goes.

I adjusted the valves on my dad's 06 last weekend. The intake valves were all about .012, and we set them for .010. I thought about .008, but as it's his truck and not mine I went with .010. The 2006+ trucks have .026 as the exhaust, but if you look the ESN up with Cummins it says .020. I did some reseach as to why, and came up with nothing. The valves are different for 06, but it's unkown if they expand more. The best guess is that they needed to tighten up the shot group on the emissions just a little and the additional .006 of seat time combined with .006 less lift would reduce the emissions just enough, this is supported by the .020 from Cummins. We decided to play it safe and not ignore Dodge 100%. We set them at .023 which splits the difference and is in the safe level for both Dodge and Cummins. We also installed an intake horn from GDP. The day after the mod my dad towed his 5K lb 16' stock trailer from Boise to Seattle. He said his peak boost was up 2-3#, which is not what I expected. With more intake lift/duration and the lower restricted intake horn I expected peak boost to drop 2-3#. When I moved my boost reference line from the OEM horn to the intake manifold I lost 2-3# because the restriction in the OEM horn adds boost. So we figure the added air from the horn, and tighter exhaust valves is more than the lower restriction from the tighter intake valves.