AH64ID

My coolant runs warmer with the fronts, by about 3-5° under normal driving.

Until about 20° my IAT's are 3-12° above ambient. Below 20 that grows to about 20° above. This is with a winter front installed or not installed, the winter front only seems to effect IAT's if it's completely blocked and I am pulling a grade with decent boost. Around town they are a lot warmer with front installed.

What washable filter were you using?Many of the washable filters hold far less than the OEM 4" filter(540 gr), and nothing filters as good as OEM either. I do lots of dusty driving and have a home depot CAI that sucks air in from only a foot or so off the ground and have no issues.

On several gas rigs over the years the only thing that really upped the mileage was a full header system and hi-flow exhaust on my dads 454 burb. The 454 and older 350's were chipped, good intake, etc and nothing made the difference the headers did on the burb. It went from 11 highway to 13-14. I would pull the injectors and have them sonically cleaned at an injector shop, did wonders for some gas injectors on my old Toyota at 150K (with regular injector cleaner in the tank too)Next best mod is a 4BT swap.

Yeah I would call BS on that one.

What is this down tube they are referring to?

I do watch the IAT's, but unlike your VP motors I can't find a specific range that is the best for mileage. My IAT's are rarely above 100°, unless it's that hot out or I am pulling 30 psi up a grade on a 75°+ day. I know that the cold air is a hindrance, just not sure what optimal is.

So as we all know the intake air temps get low enough in winter to hinder fuel economy and idle combustion efficiency. I have a winter front the helps out quite a bit, but I think they could stand being a little warmer. I generally block off my home depot CAI in winter to keep snow/moisture from entering the airbox and maybe run a little warmer air. I have been considering adding a 2" deck plate on the engine side of the air box. Close it in the summer when I don't want engine air, and open it in the winter when it's a good thing. I considered a 3" opening because my HD CAI is 3" and the plug would work for both, but not sure I want/need that much hot engine bay air? What do you guys think? --- Update to the previous post... Something like this.

I bought mine from competitiondiesel in the classifieds, but see them for sale on ebay as well.

I agree with Mike, I see about 1 psi at idle different with cold fuel.

That's a lot of fast cars... but this takes the cake for me... even if it is a chevy..

The amount of miles you have on your front shaft gives me a little piece of mind, I always feel like mine could take more grease than it does. The grease does not go into the u-joints thou, so they should be fine without adding grease.

Try disconnecting them and letting it sit, they may be bad and will die on their own. Any aftermarket boxes on the truck, performance, lights, etc?

I have never found these numbers for land enignes, but a 5.9 marine isn't moving a crazy amount more/less air for a given boost/rpm. 230 hp 3000 rpms 22 psi of boost has 575 CFM in 1275 CFM out380 hp 3000 rpms 31 psi of boost has 724 CFM in 1677 CFM out425 hp 3000 rpms 35 psi of boost has 793 CFM in 1990 CFM out480 hp 3400 rpms 35 psi of boost has 932 CFM in 2174 CFM outSo now look at flow rates of mufflers and see what it takes to not have a restriction. I run a low restriction 40" Donaldson an it's has a 1800 CFM rating at .5 psi restriction and 2546 at 1 psi of restriction. I figure I move about 1300-1800 under normal towing.

I bet you would benefit from a 4", its a great upgrade for a 2nd Gen like yours. Personally I beleive they went to a 4" on the 04.5 for 2 reasons. The first and main reason was the added size allows for a more rapid post-turbo EGT drop based on the 1450°+ stock EGT so that you aren't cooking the underside of the truck. The other reason is the CR's move a lot of air (despite the lousy cam/turbo) and the power is better with the 4".

There are many people that have great benefits from a 4" on a 5.9 over the 3" on a 2nd gen and 3.5/4" on a 03-04. OEM is now 4" for a reason. The reason 700+ makes a difference is flow, more hp means more flow. It's why a 235hp 2nd gen has a 3" and a 325/350 hp 3rd-4th gen has a 4", hp takes fuel and fuel takes air and air needs to be able to escape in a decent fashion. On a stock 2nd gen or 1st gen a 4" may not make a noticeable difference but it makes a nice benefit on a 03-04.

A 6" exhaust is not too big on a 900 cu in motor, even if the turbine wheel is only 3-4" across, like I said its allows for a pressure/temperature drop as the gasses leave the turbine. Too big and you do loose flow. A 4" is perfect for our motor, 5" is overkill until the 700+ hp range. An exhaust should have little to no effect on spool as that is all from the turbine housing and turbine wheel. Exhaust will have effect once spooled on the ability to move all the gasses.

If you have, or plan to, an exhaust brake then you want a proportional brake so that the trailer brakes with exhaust brake deceleration and service brake deceleration. The Prodigy P2 works great. If you are not going run an exhaust brake then I would get a SmartBrake or Maxbrake.

The pressure pre and post turbo outlet is very different. Our truck may have 30-50psi in the exhaust manifold and 1-3psi in the exhaust. The venturi drops the pressure and temp as it comes out the turbine wheel, but increases the velocity.

Your probably fine just having your OEM flywheel resurfaced. I am quite happy with my OFE.

How old are the batteries? Weak batteries can cause issues on a CR.

Here is what the service manual has to say. [ATTACH]3232[/ATTACH] P2509.pdf

Those are some perdy parts!I can't imagine needing better brakes, the stock ones are pretty bad-arse!

This is the pic I show when talking about the manifold flow... but yes I think it would do good, but I am not sure you would see much of a gain as the stocker already spools so fast. As for the blanket it will help with spool, but again it's already FAST. The main reason I did it was to decrease underhood temps and it really helped. There is no longer a hot blast of air when I lift the hood after a good tow. The several times I have driven 80 in 10° or colder weather my boost is always 15+ on the flats without wind. On a 80° day its around 7-10 with no wind, but we always have wind so 10-13 was normal, and at 65 I would see 4-5 under normal driving. Now I have a hard time breaking 7 psi at 80 even with a hill or wind.

You remove the nut, and then the stud. The studs have allen heads in them.