AH64ID

I have been toying with the idea of dropping the front of my truck for a while now. I finally pulled the trigger and ordered a 1" spacer from Top Gun Customz this morning. I'll probably install it in the next few weeks when I do a diff/trans/xcase fluid change. I like the 2" level for 2 big reasons, oil pan clearance and a lower tailgate lip. I don't like the 2" when loaded because it takes more air in the bags that I need to keep the level stance, 15 psi this past weekend was barely enough and I had maybe 1200 lbs of cargo/tongue weight, where if the front were 1" lower I could get by with 5-10 psi in the bags. I also don't like how the front axle is off center, and don't want to pony up for an adj tracbar. The 1" level will still keep my oil pan hidden above the axle tube, have the tailgate lower than stock and not require me to adjust my hitches, and provide a little more tire/firewall clearance for chains. So if anyone needs/wants a 2" level for a 94-curr 4wd truck I'll have one shortly.

I have been using one of the gasbuddy sites and like it.

Mine has done that once or twice in the 4+ years I have had it, thou it has had to go back to linear logic twice for other issues. I am happy with it, but haven't used the trip/mpg function since I sold my Toyota as it's not accurate on my Dodge (but am about to order a 2nd cord to keep it in my DD, and will calibrate it for that). For those of you with a SG and an 05+ try these codes (I hear they don't work on 03-04). 05 Cummins Fuel Rail Pressure TXD: 686AF10123 RXF: 044145230000 RXD: 2810 MTH: 001D00C80000 NAM: FRP 06+ Fuel Rail Pressure TXD: 07DF0123 RXF: 044145230000 RXD: 2810 MTH: 001D00C80000 NAM: FRP

Here is a slightly off topic, but relevant, tidbit of info. I recently learned the Quad max mileage module for the 3rd gens is an IAT fooler that adds up to 3° of timing advance...The only thing I don't like about the IAT fooler is the IAT's are no longer accurate on the SG, and I watch them like I do boost/EGT's.

You can do it that way, but I was referring to having yours checked/serviced/repaired. Call them and see what your options are.

DDP all the way. If you can afford the down time you would probably be money ahead to pull your 6 and send them off.

With the miles on your truck I would do all 6 at once.

NOx is formed heavily when combustion chamber temps exceed 2370° F, so we know that combustion temps on your 05, even in stock trim, are well over 1000° most the time when towing, so you should be fine. A tuner like the Smarty Jr will actually advance the timing and create higher cylinder temps which should help soot/carbon buildup.

I don't believe a HPCR injector will show any codes/diagnostic info from being "sooted" up. You are working your motor enough that what he said shouldn't happen. A regular injector cleaner is a great idea, and you can see if it works.. but keep a VERY close eye on your oil level.

I believe that one is still stock. Return flow should be plenty to keep it full, in addition to the screen. Lets look at how much fuel a stock motor can burn. Since I know the specs lets use my 325hp 05 motor. At WOT and rated rpm (2900) it uses 132 mm^3 per injection. That's 87000 injections in an hour, or 30.3 GPH. So lets say it's linear (for arguments sake) and thats .093 GPH^2 (Gallons per horespower per hour), so a 400 rwhp rig would burn 37.3 GPH, so even with a 100 GPH pump your putting nearly 63% of the fuel back to the tank at WOT.. plenty to keep the psi up and the basket full.Hi flow pumps aren't needed for their max flow, but to maintain the set psi across a broader range of flow. An internally regulated pump shouldn't have more than a 1-2 psi drop from idle to WOT, unless your motor is using all the fuel the pump can push at that psi. Remember a 165 GPH ADII flows 165 GPH at 0psi, and less as the pressure goes up.

Based on what I have seen on the forums over the last few years I have zero desire to ever run a draw-straw. At 500 or less rwhp I think the best option is an OEM basket with a doorman to hose fitting on it. Above 500rwhp a modified stock basket! If you just race/pull and need the unrestricted flow of a drawstraw just plan on never going below 1/4 tank. Personally I like this the best. Stock pickup reliability with greatly improved flow.

You need to closely monitor the oil level, it could be an injector stuck open (most common) or closed. It's not uncommon for a faulty injector that is driven on to melt a motor. Honestly with the current back-order your best bet is to send all 6 to DDP (or another quality company WITH the Bosch test machine) and see what's going on. You will be down, but its the quickest. But there are a few quick tries first, change the fuel filter and put an injector cleaner in it. Once you get the injector issue fixed your next purchase should be fuel filtration, I highly recommend the GDP MK2+ kit with a Donaldson P551313 at a min.

You may need to source a non in-tank basket.

Unless you need the draw straw for power reasons I would stay away from one. There are many more issues with them than good stories like Mike's. A stock pickup should be plenty for you, the ADII uses an internal regulator and is not pumping 165GPH all the time, unlike the 150/100 GPH units.

That will certainly recharge the batteries very quietly!

I have an EU2000i Honda that my dad bought new in 2003. For the first 5-6 years it was used once a year for power at elk camp. It probably ran 5-8 hours a day for 3-4 weeks each year. I then bought it from him in 2008ish. It still runs great, but it did develop a lope at idle and wouldn't respond to rapid/large power changes and trip the internal overload.. Well I cleaned the carb last week and it now runs like a new unit. I highly recommend one. If you have a 13.5K BTU A/C unit it probably won't power it. It does power my 9K BTU unit, and does it much better with a new larger hard start cap, but I think the OEM 13.5K unit's are too large for it. They are great units, and require very little maintenance.. but if it starts to run funny clean the carb! They also have 3 different jets for altitude, sea-5K, 4-9K, 8K+. The jets don't really help with power loss, but they do make it run smoother and burn less fuel at altitude.

Correct the best filter is the Baldwin PF7977. I have called and talked to Bosch and 5um is the minimum they recommend, stock is 7um. Based on current standards the best you can measure is "better than 3um", which there are none for the OEM canister. I would consider an additional filter or 2 on the truck to keep those new injectors alive longer. If you click the link in my sig an the bottom of the page is a link to additional fuel filter installs.

It's OK'd on the 05 for the manual, but not the auto.. But there are several companies that sell a brake for an 05 auto that work great.

Looks like this thread was revived, so I'll throw my out there on 2-cycle and the 3rd gen.. My truck did not like it; moreover, my exhaust brake didn't like it. I ran about 10oz per fillup, or 448:1. I ran it for about 5K miles and I noticed no change in engine noise, fuel economy, or smooth running. Thou I do run the Amsoil Diesel Concentrate, so my lubricity was already improved. What I did notice was a sticky exhaust tip, and the exhaust brake would not fully engage if the rpms were over 1500. I would have to push the clutch in, engage the brake, then let the clutch out. I feel the 2-stroke was gumming the brake up, within a tank or two of stopping using 2 stroke the brake was back to normal operation. I never felt a difference, but could plainly see it in my back-pressure gauge. I also plugged my drive pressure gauge tubing in those 5K miles, the only time its happened.So that's my experience.

You spray it in the intake and it coats the pistons/cylinder walls with oil. You do it with the motor running for 20-30 seconds and then shut it off immediately... thou I am not sure how flammable it is for run-away on a diesel.. may be something to ask Amsoil, or whoever's product you purchase. It makes gas engines run like crap so I am guessing it wont cause run-away.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/fog.aspx It coats the cylinders with a thin film of oil to protect them from corrosion.

The in-tank pump that started being used in 05, and as a retro for 03-04's, is actually a good pump. They provide all the flow needed for the CP3, even with up to about 100 hp over stock (on a 04.5+ motor). Towing I never see lower than 6 psi and have 3 fuel filters and 4 banjo-bolts in there.. plenty for a CP3. If you upgrade the fuel pump and are sub 500 rwhp I recommend a Raptor and a Liberty canister, no 1/4 tank issues, better filtration possibilities than the filtered AD/FASS and easy install. Other than fuel filtration there really aren't too many HPCR issues. Early 2005 trucks did have a plastic end-capped IC, which don't last long.

I am in the 375ish to the ground range and SBC recommended the OFE. I was able to slip my OE clutch last week in 6th, so I went to stock fueling plus timing and it held towing all weekend... but a replacement isn't far out as I have some road trips planned this summer and don't want to lose the clutch with the fam in the rig. The OFE has also been recently redesigned and doesn't have the warp issues from heat like it used to. If you want heavier than an OFE I would get the Street Dual Disc.

I agree with what Mike listed. If it cannot be driven at all I would also pull the rocker arms for 2 reasons. One is there will be even/min pressure on all the springs, and the valves will all be closed to keep moisture out. Its a much easier task than one thinks. You could easily have all 6 off and the valve cover back on in 30 minutes or less. Put the tires at 80 psi and consider putting the frame on jack stands to pull some, but not all, of the weight off the springs. Change the oil before you park it and use a good oil that will keep the seals lubed. I would certainly fog it. My dads 3406 in his boat sat for 9 months a year every year (built in 93 and sold in 2008) and it never had anything done to it but fresh oil and a shut-off, and never had any lack of use leaks/issues/etc.

It means it catches 100% of all particles 30um and larger, and 98.7% of all particles 25um and larger.