AH64ID

Can you see pre-turbo IAT’s on a 2nd gen? Low boost or high boost the temp of the air going into the turbo has a direct and very visible effect on the temp in the manifold. I’m always watching both IAT temps, and have been for many years.

Rattlesnake Creek Fire burning close to homes near Pollock https://www.ktvb.com/mobile/article/news/local/idaho/rattlesnake-creek-fire-burning-close-to-homes-near-pollock/277-578074909 (Via KTVB)

Based on the poor location of the IAT sensor on the 2nd gen I am not sure how much you'll see. It's too heavily influenced by coolant temp. IIRC you often see 140° IAT's in the manifold. The only times I ever see 140° IAT's is when it's above 95° outside and I'm pulling grades at 80% load or higher, otherwise I run intake manifold temps of 6-15° above ambient. I do know that I can see pre (right after the air filter) and post turbo (intake manifold) IAT temps on my 05 and I have a CAI and WAI inlet to my stock box and depending on how I am pulling air I can see a pre and post temperature change. The foam that seals my stock box to the fender broke away and I ran about a year without it, when I added some insulation back in there my pre/post IAT's dropped again, so I was even getting warm air from the gap between the box and the fender. Basically if the pre-turbo temp goes up so does the post turbo temp, unless it's well below freezing outside. The intercooler is very efficient, but the temp into the turbo has a very noticeable effect on the final temp.

If the filter is sized correctly there shouldn't be any difference. I'll bet there is more of a loss from pulling hot engine compartment air than cooler outside air.

As stated 280° should be plenty. There are different limitations depending on where you read. Pan will read cooler than the cooler supply line.

Just getting back out of the field for some training and saw the rattlesnake fire and figured it was close, but I didn’t realize it was this close! Stay safe.

But the fuel cools/heats it, so the electronics temp will be effected by fuel temp. I can't think of any pumps without electronics that have a fuel temp gauge. Temp into the VP isn't the hottest it gets, and yet it's not an issue on later injection pumps designed for ULSD.

I'll be honest, I don't think it's anything to worry about. Regardless of how much you cool your fuel it will likely get above 160° in the head, so Asphaltenes can start to drop out into the tank. Luckily that's on the return line and they will get caught by the filter. Nearly all diesel fuel in the tank will get above 140° at some point before it's burned. If it was a big issue filters wouldn't last as long as they do and the bottom of all tanks would be full of crud. I would guess the 160° code in the VP is for the electronics and not the fuel... but that's my 0.02.

If the fuel is 135° in the VP it's going to be a heck of a lot hotter than that leaving the head to return to the tank.

You’re welcome! Let me know how it cools the house!

The Tru-Trac is what you want. I wouldn't ever spend another penny on a clutch style LSD, as they are about worthless in my book (and I've ran more than one, in more than one truck, and spent too many pennies on them). The helical gear style LSD is the best working LSD with it's only drawback is that it doesn't work as well from a dead stop but as soon as there is a little wheel movement it's better. I now have more miles on a helical gear LSD than a clutch style and will never go back. The OEM LSD in 03+ is a helical gear style. In my experience clutch pack LSD's will "lock" when you don't want them to, such as on ice, and won't do crap when you want them to, such as deeper snow, mud, loose dirt, wet pavement, etc. Nothing like a clutch pack LSD causing the back axle to walk on off camber icey section of a USFS road! That will make you pucker!!! Done the same stretch of road hundreds of times with a clutch-style and a helical gear style and the helical gear style has never unexpectedly walked on me. Other things to do are to ensure you have the proper air pressure for the load, and good tires. I've had to chain up quite a few times but it's always been warranted, such as breaking trail in 18"+ of snow or solid ice on off camber roads. I'd much rather chain up for a few miles than wish I had when I'm into a ditch or tree. These are good trucks, but with the low weight in the rear and lots of torque they can easily be traction challenged, and the leaf spring setup in 1st and 2nd gens makes them even more prone to loss of traction.

You would either have to swap out an axle that has manual everything, or find the manual axle version of what you have. Most of the spin free kits use some form of D60 stuff, but since the axles aren't all D60 it takes some adapting. Aside from a spin-free kit you're most likely stuck with a D60.. but finding one with manual hubs and real wheel bearings in good shape, and the correct pumpkin placement might prove to be more expensive than a spin free kit for the axle you have. I doubt anything on a TTB axle would work, and TTB's are cheap because they are unwanted junk.

Good video. I don't think any Cummins ISB pistons are OEM coated, but all in all very accurate and good video. It explains why a stock motor can run much higher EGT's and be safe. My OEM motor could hold 1450° and not be an issue to the piston, but if I were do that on my motor now I'd run into piston issues.

Batteries in general for hybrids and EV's aren't cheap. A friend and I ran some numbers a year or two ago, and all the savings at the pump get put into the battery if you keep the vehicle thru battery replacement, if not more that what you saved.

Just convert rev/mile to inches. 5280/(rev/mile)/3.14x12= diameter in inches. The ECM uses rev/mile anyhow, the hyper tech just does the conversion.

Most tire manufactures advertise a rev/mile that is the best to use when determining rolling diameter.

I think 255/80R17 would be a better size, thou they may not last as long if you use you're torque often. Lighter and fit better on OEM size rims. I love skinny tires, but they don't last nearly as long with torque applied.

You should have zero issues. Aside from 2 hills I can run from Pendleton to Boise on OD at 17K GCW with my TT with my much taller tires. 245/70R19.5 are about a 34” tire, or closer on diameter to a 285/75R16.

Many of the EV's are programmable to charge during off-peak hours.

I'll bet you just haven't noticed them, as they don't look different than any other new car out there. I've seen more than I figured here in Boise.

The Prius is a hybrid, not an electric vehicle. I'm pretty sure there are 100% electric vehicles being sold and driven in the US. Since it's a hybrid it won't have a big range, since it will recharge itself with the engine, or use it as needed for added power.

Well it got too hot on Saturday to keep painting the exterior of the house, so I switched to putting in my stove pipe for the wood stove in my shop. I need to put some firebrick in the stove, and clean it off so that it's not a table anymore but I'm ready to burn!

Why would you think that?

Constant load and zero drivetrain losses... it’s amazing how’s efficient it is. Electric trash trucks would be impressive!

I wrote an emissions tune for my truck. You can floor it and it will only slowly increase rpms and peak at about 2700 :-). I would have thought there would be a market for 12V emissions fuel plates but I don’t recall ever seeing one. Can the quad quad go low enough on fuel for a emissions tune?