AH64ID

They don’t. It’s just a very efficient way to produce a constant power output. It might work in Class 8, but without a battery bank I don’t think it would be as good in pickups or cars. A city bound delivery vehicle with a small 1 cyl diesel generator and a decent battery bank could likely get 10x the fuel economy, or more, of current delivery rigs. It would also do better on maintenance than all the starting and stoping of engines. It it wouldn’t surprise me to see UPS or FedEx putting some R&D money into the idea.

Personally I'd like to see more diesel hybrids. A 1 cyl turbo diesel hybrid would put any gas hybrid to shame in terms of efficiency and longevity. If the costs get to where it's reasonable I wouldn't mind having something as a DD, but nothing I'd take likely ever take on the highway and certainly never back woods. There are too many people who don't have the ability to charge for days or weeks at a time, which is why I don't think we'll ever be free of fossil fuels for pickups and work vehicles, but the inner city stuff could defiantly take advantage of progressing technology.

As a SRW with an auto it should be a D70U. IIRC it will need the 4.10 carrier.

While it's not a common issue, it does happen and the cam sensor goes erratic. It's certainly worth pulling the timing cover and inspecting.

That was my thought too :-)

With the tall OD ratio of the 47RE the 4.10's will do better on the highway, especially if you ever tow. I wouldn't go with cheap gears, you have a high torque motor and big tires. Have you ever installed gears before? I would look into Yukon gears. They are decently priced and strong.

It might help some, but it likely won't cover the cost of the upgrade. What trans do you have? Personally I'd go 4.10's, especially if you have an auto.

Good deal! One of the downfalls of the non-OEM thermostats is they often don't let the block purge the air as well. It's very possible the original thermostat was the 1st issue and air was the 2nd.

Must be a Cali motor. IIRC they also had some form of smog pump or EGR

It's possible, but we're talking about the OP's truck with 295's, not 37's. He monitors trans temp, so it's a 68RFE and they will not let you lug the motor to that point, as it will downshift. So while it's possible for some people to do it, that's not the issue with the guys asking the questions and having the issues in this thread.

My point was that by dropping to 4th you'd see the same thing, reduced load, reduced EGT's, etc... but fuel economy would drop from the increased drag of the engine. Yeah smaller tires do sure help out the gearing. I think you're going to like that size for your specific use.

Tires aren't going to cause that much of an overheat, even towing. That's pretty darn hot for a Cummins. Rapid rise in temp with a light load and no real hills (Assuming you were in NC, not the Rockies), tells me that either you have air in the cooling system or your thermostat isn't working properly. A plugged radiator shouldn't shoot temps up and down rapidly, but rather run hot and stay there. The thermostat could very well be the culprit, even with the new one. Stick with genuine Cummins thermostats, as the rest have a pretty lousy reputation. Your 2010 should have a 200° thermostat from the factory. A 190° thermostat is fine for most uses, but the fan is calibrated for a 200° thermostat and while towing the fan won't come on early enough to keep the 190° thermostat where it should be, but a bass boat and tires shouldn't cause that much heat. I'd replace the autozone thermostat with a Cummins 200° thermostat. If you tow above 18K GCW often I'd see about a 190° thermostat and a custom tune to adjust the fan, as this will reduce your oil temps to a better level... but unless you're doing that often I'd stick with the 200° thermostat so that when you do tow the fan is working at the appropriate temps. I'd also run a synthetic oil so it can handle the higher oil temps better. What is your coolant level? With a cold motor, sitting overnight, what level is the radiator at? How does it look? Pyro 1 may be hooked up. Before you start the truck in the morning see what the Pyro 1 temp is, and it should be similar to coolant and intake air temp. If it is, then start the truck. If it starts to go up then it's likely hooked up. Look underhood for a probe in the exhaust manifold or turbine oulet pipe. If the PO put studs and MM on the truck it likely has Pryo 1 hooked up. If Pyro 1 is working you need to monitor it, more so than boost or rail pressure. Pyro temp will give you limitations where boost/rail pressure are just fun to watch and won't be extreme unless something has failed. The fan clutch will throw soft codes, set's a code in the ECM but doesn't like the CEL, and the MM should be able to check for those. It's been a while since I have played with a MM, but can you select fan speed on it? The 3rd gen, and 4th gen, have a LOT of parameters for fan speed. It's fully controlled by the ECM which means it will throw a code, but not normally a CEL, for underspeed operation. The OP already replaced the fan clutch, but it doesn't seem to me like that's his issue. My non-UDC programming never engaged my fan much and I'd top out at about 215-218° at 20K GCW on a 6% grade at 65 mph on a 100° day. Now with my fan programming I've only seen 211° once for 5 seconds, the rest of the time the fan engages at 208° and keeps the coolant to a max of 209-210°.

It's great for improving the overall gearing, and it will tow very nice as well. You'll top out in 4th sooner, but towing in 5th is easier. I went from 285/70R17 to 265/70R17 and lost hill pulling speed, but gained ease on the interstate at 65, then I went to 245/70R19.5 and lost some ability at 60-65 in 6th, but can pull hills at ~2500 and 65 all day long in 5th. It's all a numbers game finding that optimal rpm for the speed. Downshift to to 4th at 60 and you'll see the same results with EGT, load, trans temp, exhaust brake performance, etc... but you'll actually be burning more fuel. Regardless of what gear you are in it takes "x" hp to run down the road at a given speed. If you increase the drag in the motor by changing rpms you have increased the hp and fuel requirements and it's a loss. So it really is a sweet spot, but 1950 is a great cruise rpm. I suspect that for your driving routing to Ontario and back all the time you'll notice a slight increase in economy. If you spent more time at 75-85 on the interstate you would likely notice a decrease in fuel economy. Correct, but don't forget that 20% load at 1800 rpms is less total fuel than at 2200 rpms, At 1800 rpms you're burning 81.8% of the fuel as 2200 rpms even for the same load.

It makes a huge difference. One must also consider the sump size vs engine size is anemic in this truck, and the smallest of any ISB. That means shorter oil life and higher oil temperatures. Engine load cycles are also big, and more constant in heavy trucks. Look at the marine QSB getting 480 hp, and nothing in the road/truck market is close. One can also look at the average fuel use vs displacement, big OTR engines actually lead an easier life. If I am doing 65 mph at 20K lbs I get ±10 on the flat ground with 5.9L. A 80K lb OTR truck might be getting ±5.5 mph. So just under 2x the burn rate at 4x the weight, and 2.5x the displacement. It's a much easier life for a 15L.

I run Amsoil AME 15w-40 CI-4+ oil still. I change it once a year, which is 9-13K miles. Great UOA. I'll likely try the new Amsoil DME this next oil change. That was a great article back in the day. Unfortunately I don't think any of those oils are around anymore, so it doesn't do much good for current research. Now that CK is in full bloom I'd like to see them redo it.

135# is correct for a 2nd gen. 3rd gen's go to 145#. Dad's had them come loose at 120# on his 06.

Yeah, they look just like that ?

Me either. I'm not to concerned about them opening, but it wouldn't be hard for road debris (tire, stick, etc) to break it or cause a leak that you can't detect until it's too late... especially on the rigs that don't have a real oil psi gauge. By the time the low oil pressure light comes on the motor is done. I've dented oil pans with sticks bouncing off the tires. I'd hate to lose an engine to save 3 minutes on an oil change once a year. One of the reasons I run a 1" level is to get the oil pan higher and protected by the axle.

I don't think it's a common enough occurrence to worry about, and if it does happen put it gear and slam on the brakes :-)

Yep... Factory

Field Service Manual Single Rear Wheel Dual Rear Wheel

110# seems low, dad almost lost a wheel at 120#. The 2001 FSM calls for 135# for SRW and 145# for DRW.

The 3rd one, on mine, is on the side and would be hidden in that photo.

They are out there, and required for certain classes of drag racing. One example https://pacbrake.com/product-types/valves/

Yes you can.