AH64ID

The wheel stud threads will have increased torque per thread to get the full lug nut torque, this will shorted the life of the stud, as well as make them more prone to thread stripping. General rule of thumb is 2-3 threads exposed past the nut. I would install longer studs at your next maintenance event.

There are 3 ports in the filter head, so I would just use one of those. The passage under the ports is quite large and taking oil there won't have any increased effect on flow over any other port.

Unless the ECM tuning has been altered putting a brick on the pedal won't cause it to run away and grenade itself.

Me too. As long as they aren't sulfated and aren't the cheapest battery on the shelf they shouldn't need weekly charging. To me a battery, that's disconnected, that needs weekly charging is a bad battery and should be replaced. If they get fully charged before storing they should be able to go 2-4 months, disconnected, before needing a top off charge to remain in storage.

If they are being stored for many months you can get battery tenders as well, or just semi-frequent charges. I don't think weekly is needed thou. We have several batteries that we only use once a year for a month and I charge them 3 times outside of that month (end of use, spring, before use) and they are never lower than 12.6 when I put the charger on them. Then there are my lifeline batteries. They can sit for 4 months in the winter and be at 13.01 when I go to do a spring charge, but they aren't cheap batteries.

Since that charger peaks at 3.5A it will take a while to charge, but you can hook to one battery to charge both.

No. Your alternator only hooks up to one battery. If you're troubleshooting a bad battery I would disconnect and charge independently.

I get lots of low rpm gear rollover noise from my trans, but I generally downshift when towing to avoid clutch noise and strain. Funny thing is that when I run a single event tune I get almost zero trans noise at any rpm. My guess is the pilot/main aren't as smooth on the crank, but they sure are quiet. I've got a single event tune in the truck right now and it's fun and appears to be very fuel efficient.

I’ve seen numerous, too many to count, K&N filters that are properly serviced that don’t filter better than a screen door. It’s a filter issue... it can be made worse by poor maintenance, but it’s still a filter issue. Like I said, hold it up to light and tell me how it can be a good filter.

Me either. I’ve dented an oil pan, and I’d hate for that to have opened an oil drain. These motors are easy to drain, so I don’t see the point. IMHO, it’s a piss poor design which makes its a defective product. Even when maintained as they should be they are ineffective at best. You can see thru the worthless things. How is that good!?!?!? I’ve seen their ineffectiveness for years. There is nothing you could say or show me to change my mind. I find the the K&N brand repulsive. That looks like a great oil. No issues with it at all. Pricey but effective. It handles the cold and hot temps better, and it lasts longer. It’s never bothered me to spend the extra cash on my once a year oil change.

I’ve never seen an engine with a K&N filter that doesn’t have signs from poor filtration, despite what nearly every K&N user claims. Just not something I’ve personally witnessed, but I have seen lots of indications, including my own vehicles in the past, to point me away from K&N. Oil and such aside, hold one up and you can see light thru it, that’s not a filter that’s a screen door. I want dust to stay out of my motor, not bugs. As far as oil I think Delo 400 and Valvoline Premium Blue are about as good of a dino oil as you can get, if you live in a climate that supports dino oil. When I ran delo after my rebuild the time to build pressure below 30°F was substantially lower than with a synthetic. I ran it as cold as 10°F and didn’t like the time to build pressure. I monitor pressure on the drivers side above the ECM so it’s a slower reading than the filter head, but the difference between dino and synthetic is BIG. At -25°F my amsoil AME 15w-40 builds pressure faster than delo 400 at +10°F. So, depending on where you live delo may not be a good year round oil. I also think synthetic is better for these newer higher power motors, and oldet modified motors when towing hard. I also have a video around somewhere with oil in mason jars at -10°F. It’ll make you a believer in synthetic for cold temps. In terms of oil filters nothing touches the DBL7349/ELF7349. They are 100% at 20um, 98.7% at 15um, and 59.97% at 7um and have enough media to run extended intervals. They are also very cost effective when bought 6 at a time. I’m still running Amsoil AME 15w-40 CI-4+ in my truck but I am considering trying out the new Amsoil DME 15w-40 CK oil. It has a slightly lower TBN but should handle high temp/high sheer better than AME, and is slightly thicker under higher temps. CJ was a crap oil, but CK is supposed to be better than most CI’s, but it won’t last quite as long due to a lower TBN. That’s not going to be an issue for 99% of users.

So does mine ?

That was my wife’s concern at first, but now she loves it. I don’t think it blocks too much, but I might be used to them after all these years

It's a 15µ absolute filter, and 50% at 2µ...so not hardly worth the time or money for a bypass. The DBL7349 full flow is 15µ absolute, and 7µ at 59.97%, so I'll bet it's real similar at 2µ. AFIK the only bypass I know of with good media is the Amsoil series, which is what I run as well. I've ran fuel filters in the past as bypass filters but they plug up much faster and in the end it's not worth the savings since it takes more filters over the life of a motor.

All my rigs have an eclipse sun shade. They are a little more money than a walmart special but they attach and don't need to find a place to store it (which I always hated about non-mounted shades).

NO! Only the NV-4500 and G-56 should be GL-4. The NV-5600, topic of this thread, should be synchromesh. Syncromesh and GL-4 are different rating. Kinda like comparing gas and diesel oils. BTW: flew over your place this morning, may fly over again in a few hours.

Amosoil synchromesh or Penzoil synchromesh for the NV-5600... that’s it. Don’t experiment with a GL-4 in a NV5600.. there are those who have and aren’t happy with the results or damage. The NV-4500 came with a 75w-85 fluid, so the SAE 50 or a 75w-90 are only marginally thicker. There are several 75w-90 Synthetic options in GL-4 if someone is looking. The G-56 is recommend to run a GL-4 as well, from MB.

The Donaldson is synthetic and I am fairly certain the FS1000 has some cellulose.

Time is what's going to drive filter changes, especially if the filters are cellulose and not full synthetic media.

With my added power and how much I tow I change it at 50K mile intervals. That doesn't sound too hot to me, based on what little I have seen. The trans with added fluid seem to run hotter, but the concencus is that it's drawing extra heat from the bearings with more of a oil bath and that's a good thing. At least it's a GL-4, which is what the NV4500 wants. A GL-4 is not advisable for a NV-5600.

That's what I run in mine.

Looks great! I change my filters every 30K miles, 18 months, or at a visible pressure drop...whichever comes first. These days I usually hit 18 months, which is generally about 1100 gallons of fuel burned. If you figure about 50 GPH for the stock pump and the average 500 hours in 18 months that's 25,000 gallons thru the filters. What I really like is that means on average each gallon is filtered 22 times.

MOOG is cheap junk on a 3rd gen. They barely last 50K miles on gas trucks, let alone these heavy Cummins. Not sure why they work well for 2nd and not for 3rd.... could be the weight.

It appears you have a manual transmission, I am not sure how the power steering would be effected with the clutch out an in gear?? It would just be like coasting, which is 0 fuel being injected as well.

I understood that the 3rd gen fan is a 8500 CFM fan.