AH64ID

I have the Yukon kit, as does my dad on his 06. Mileage gains were negligable, but I spend most my time towing/hauling so a 5-10% gain is harder to see. It does feel much better driving around as the steering wheel takes noticably less effort. I can tell when I've left the hubs locked just by the steering wheel feel. I paid around $1500 for mine and installed them myself. Considering the cost of replacement sealed wheel bearings it's not that bad, and I can service them. I did my first service last summer at about 30K miles. Everything still looked new. 2Lo is also a very handy feature.

It’s vacuum. They literally look like identical kits.

So I changed my exhaust out and I cannot see any difference in metal corrosion from under the header wrap vs exposed. I re-wrapped the new down pipe with header wrap.

Did you replace the actuator? I suspect my Jacobs has a diaprahm issue but Jacobs no longer supports the brake. I'll likely be ordering a PRXB here in the near future. The Jacobs and Banks appear identical, but both companies claim they are different and I can't interchange parts... that would be the cheapest way.

The truck won't know the difference. The starter spins the flywheel, and when roll starting the transmission spins the flywheel... everything is the same in terms of the ECM/injection pump, etc. Once you get it spinning a little it should actually spin over easier than a gasser since there is no airflow restriction, it's just initial high compression you have to get over. I've started mine this way numerous times when stopped on inclined dirt roads after shutting the engine down. As long as you don't pop the clutch it's very smooth, and pick a gear that will put the rpms around 1500 or less.

Yes they all mention it, and it does work well! If it weren't for the UOA I wouldn't have ever known the difference. My stock motor turned the oil black as soon as you changed it. This motor doesn't, but it still happens fast.

You could ditch the last filter after the FASS, or keep it. It wouldn't hurt anything but the cost of a filter at change time. I also just realized Donaldson has a new line out. The DBF5817 should also be a good choice, and it looks to be a fair amount cheaper than the Fleetguard NanoNet stuff.

I was reading thru my dads '17 owners manual and came across the info on the remote start. The colder it is the shorter the remote start will let the engine run, with as little as 90 seconds in extreme cold (wasn't quantified). Just goes to show that Cummins really doesn't want you idling a diesel to warmup, even with increased rpms and exhaust brake backpresure.

I'm only at 16.8:1, but the pilot really helps. About 8-10 years ago, before I had my POS DD, I would start the truck for 3-5 minutes with the exhaust brake on. Rpms would increase to 1000.It really did help the truck warm up faster, but I was shocked at the UOA from that winter. The soot level more than doubled, and when I quit that habit the soot level returned to normal. Needless to say, I don't think using the exhaust brake on a cold motor is a good ideal. The 6.7's do it automatically, but they don't apply full closure like a mechanical brake on the 5.9's.

The FS1000 and FF5817 would be my filters of choice on a FASS.

As long as you're not running above 50% BTDC I wouldn't worry about it.

I've never noticed a difference in the way the truck idles with or without a grid heater, aside from the 1 time I started it at -15° without a grid heater.

That's the same fueling that SW3 runs, so it's decent for comparison. Why does the lower EGT have you concerned?

How does your fuel map compare to SW3 sample? Or Stock?

The ISB is rated to start down to 10°F without any starting aids, which includes the grid heater. It starts to make a small difference around 20-25°F, above that it's 100% emissions based and doesn't do much of anything.

The amp draw is only while they are being used, and won't exceed 2 minutes after startup. But you are correct that you likely won't need them. I reprogrammed mine and they don't even come on until it's below freezing now vs the 66° OEM temperature. I am about to go pull mine out for the summer and put my spacer in.

I don't think you need a 10µ as your 1st filter with 4 filters. The BF1212 is a great f/w sep, 20µ, and should be cheaper :-)

The BF1375 is a different thread pitch and will not fit on the AD unit. The Fletguard NanoNet media is better than the Cat media, so yes I would run the FF5817 over the Cat. I personally stopped using the Cat's a few years back and run either the Donaldson or NanoNet with the NanoNet being preferred. The benefit to the P551312 is that it's larger and therefore will have more media surface area and flow better, which is good considering the flow rating differences between the filters and pump. I really don't like AD's because of their oddball thread sizing. At least on the older FASS pumps you can adapt them to dual 1-14", but I am not aware of a fix for the AD's, so you're stuck with a crappy filter selection. If you want to run an additional f/w sep I would put a Baldwin BF1212 on the frame prior to the AD. BF1212-BF1275-P551312-FF5817.

You're going to be hard pressed to find a filter that will meet the flow potential of the AD165 in the thread size offered by the AD165. That being said, lots of the flow is lost to build pressure so most of the time it will be within the ratings of the filter. You're correct that the BF1275 is what you should be running on the suction side. There just aren't a lot of options for the 7/8-14 thread that AD uses on the pressure side. The P551315 is probably your best bet and it's a 90 GPH filter. And a FF5817 as the final filter. IMHO it's the best 3µ filter media you can buy. If the FF5817 won't fit then look at the FF5814, it's the same filter but shorter. You could try a FF5322/P551312 in place of the P551315, but it's taller and there is a very small gasket diameter difference and it's about 1/2" bigger around.

I think the bypass is rather important, especially when you consider that these thermostats spend more time closed than open unless you tow all the time. Or is it a completatly different setup on a 12V?

If he was not aware that your problem was cruising, and thought it was WOT he may have been making a mor accurate recommendation.

Is your EGT issue at cruise or WOT? If it's at cruise going to a larger turbo will make your cruise EGT issue worse. If its at WOT then a larger turbo will lower your EGTs, to a point. Everything I have gathered from this thread is that it's a cruise EGT issue. Your airflow is too low, but a larger turbo will make it worse based on the rpms you cruise at.

That would be why it smokes! Thou it shouldn't be spraying outside the bowl, the 04.5-07 injector nozzle is a narrower spray pattern and sprays deeper into the piston. The diagram above shows this.

That's about it. You'll probably end up at 0°±2° in that area.

The samples are just that, samples. They really aren't how the actual tunes look. Prime example is that SW1-5 all use the same, stock, duration table, but there are differences in the limiters but the samples all show different duration tables. There probably isn't any harm as long as you drop the timing by 45mm3.