AH64ID

thats still a full delete, not a software delete (no such thing). A gutted DPF isn’t a DPF anymore. A delete requires software and hardware modification.

We normally have the windows open at night more days of the year than not, even in the dead of winter we will crack it for some fresh air. This summer sucks thou, we’ve been too hot most nights. In a normal year there are maybe 10 days that are too hot to open windows at bedtime. This year it’s been weeks on end, so now that it’s cold enough the smoke it thick. Screw the smoke, the window is being opened.

We have had a couple mornings in the high 40’s, but still not running the house heat. The low temp feels great with the windows open. We’ve done a little camping in the Stanley area over the last month and every night is mid-low 30’s, with the lowest being 31 on the night of 22July.

@Mopar1973Man as I’ve mentioned before if the hard parts are still on the truck it’s not considered a delete, end of story. I’m also certain DAP doesn’t want you telling the internet they do deletes, as I’m sure they don’t. If a truck regens it’s not deleted, software or not. There is plenty of emission intact tuning, and that is what you are calling a “software delete”, but it’s a huge difference. This day and age the best bet is emissions friendly tuning. Even if you live in a county/state that doesn’t smog it’s still not legal to delete and it is being monitored. Even selling private party is illegal and can come back on you if the buyer gets caught and proves he bought it that way.

Those initial issues are not Smarty, as you would have had them with any tuner. There is a good change there was an ECM issue, as general flashing doesn’t trash and ECM and a trashed ECM is generally not able to be recovered. Flashes can tail, but are often recoverable with a new flash. I presume this was with a Touch? And some time ago? There haven’t been multiple vin slots since 2016.

Not sure what your issue was, but I’ve tuned more trucks than I recall with UDC and UDC Pro. I’ve never experienced anything remotely close to what you are describing. When the time comes give me a call, we will make a MM3 and UDC Pro work like it should, and easily, with your 06. I’ll get you a base 06 time they likely won’t need much tweaking, which is perfect for your learning a CR.

Just know you may get the tables to make the same power, but EFI Live doesn’t offer all the tables that UDC Pro does. So if you want “full” control you may have to reconsider…

If that was 100% true you wouldn’t ever get anymore fuel/power out of injectors without tuning, but we know that’s not true. It is more true on a non-CR than a CR thou, but still not an absolute.

On my 05 the overloads were engage statically at around 6500lbs, which is more than the stock tires could hold. Always made me laugh, no point in those overloads.

I wasn’t taking anything about 6.7’s, since the OP has a 5.9. Nothing will spool as fast on a 5.9 as a 6.7, but that’s not really relevant to this conversation. The spool speed of the primary isn’t quite as important as if that turbo was used as a single. The primary will spool faster in a twin setup than it will as a single. Lots of stock/S400 and S300/S400 kits on 5.9s. Depending on how they are tuned and fueled they can spool very fast, especially when loaded for towing. I always thought a set of smaller BB garrets would make a great towing setup, but thats not even close to cheap.

I don't. I know that a small S400 will give the broadest range of power but beyond that I'd be guessing. BD used to sell, any may still, a small S300 over a big S300 as towing twins. Maybe see if you can find any specs on that as a starting point?

150's would be a good size on a VP truck with quad tuning. Tuning advancements have made bigger injectors better as you can adjust the fueling to match what you need. The larger injector allows for more fuel quicker, so it's a faster and better burn. Yes a small S400 would work with your HX35 but it will reduce the initial spool, but after a few psi it will increase it. The injectors will also help spool. At what rpm are you unhappy about the spool of the HX35? It's usually a fairly quick spooling turbo.

A 62/65/12 will not be able to support 500 rwhp while towing heavy, but it can support 500 rwhp on a street tune. To me a towing setup is one that lets you run WOT and not stare at the gauges ALL the time or on every little hill. I had to get above 6-7K feet, ambient temp dependent, on my 05 before I really even needed to glance at the gauges. Even at 8K feet I didn't have to watch them if I drove it correctly. That's what a towing setup should be.... that same setup would make over 550 rwhp when turned up and run safe street EGT's. If you have to watch your gauges like a hawk when you're towing then your setup is wrong for towing. Even with twins I usually don't recommend much more than 450 rwhp on a tow tune. The oiling and cooling system have a harder time keeping up when the sustained power gets into that range, as it's well over 500 at the crank. A small S300 over a small S400 would make a great set of towing twins for 400-450rwhp. For 350-400 a single is plenty, and for 375-425 it's a toss up as twins aren't cheap.

@Mopar1973Man 18% OH error, not bad at all with +50's... I'm curious if it remains semi constant or if it bounces around like most of them do. Have you had that steel pig on the scales yet? Do the rear overloads make contact?

+50’s typically net a 20% error, similar to high milage stock injectors. The OEM lie-o-meter was probably the worst of all generations for the 04.5-07 5.9. I’m guessing it’s from errors in the duration table. I was able to get my new BBi Stage 1’s within 10% for a few years but it grew back to 15% with some miles on them.

Sounds about right. Typical 3rd Gen error is in the 15-20% range, with stock injectors. Larger injectors and it’s a much bigger error since more fuel flows than the ECM thinks.

Glad to hear it’s improving! There is something to be said for rotating mass, and those speeds you drive at are great for the G56 and 3.73’s. I wouldn’t call it quite the same as the 02 thou. Final drive ratio on the 02 is 2.66 vs 2.95 on the 06. The 06 is nearly 11% lower. If you’re talking the “effective” final drive which includes the tires, which is within 1%. This doesn’t account for rotating mass thou.

I do remember Charlie Durand. Amsoil linedoesn’t often need an additive (per their tech spec sheet), but they sell one that works with any gear lube.

For that level of power you don't need twins, but they are beneficial if you often tow heavy above 6K feet. A good single can get you to 425 rwhp and still have good EGT's at elevation, even up to 8000 feet... it might just take a downshift on HOT summer days up high.

The rear hold 4.5 quarts, so however much additive is needed for that volume. Depending on the gear lube you may not need it, such as Amsoil SVG.

Small world indeed... I worked for Charlies Sport Shop and live with the owner when I was there for the summers. My first trip to King Salmon was 1990, the summer I was 10. I then went back off and on for fun until I started working for John in 1999. I worked at Charlies from 1999-2002. I fished Herring for my dad in 2004, salmon in 2005, and then went back in 2006 for a week right before being deployed to Afghanistan and again after getting home in 2007 to help my dad do some fish hold insulation work on his and other BB boats. . That was the last time I was in King Salmon. I did get to visit Wasilla this past June, my BIL lives there. Spent lots of time fishing Big Creek and even went on a Caribou hunt up there in 1998, right before they closed the season for a long time. On that same trip my dad shot a bear up King Salmon Creek.

I worked out of King Salmon. My dad fished Bristol Bay but I mostly worked in the boat yard and sport fished.

I am not sure a turbo can cause a puff on startup since there is no way for oil from the turbo to get into the cylinder and ignited on startup. I'd be leaning more towards valve guides.

Yep, I lived in one of those towns for several summers years ago. It probably doesn't matter much with the new truck on the way, but have you tried new injectors? Or different pop pressure?

Something else is going on with the truck and the #1 just makes the issue more visible, guaranteed. There is no shortage of people who run #1 without a single issue.