AH64ID

The same thing is hitting the news here. I am not sure how much I believe it, but there are multiple accounts of hotel gouging going on.

35 is the min I would run for non-winter paved road speeds. I run 55-65 in my fronts. At 55 they ride great but on winding roads with constant turning they are a little soft for cornering with a 5200lb front axle at 55 mph. At 3300lbs on my rear axle 35 is overkill, but that's the lowest I'll run for street use. For back roads I run 45/25 and the traction is awesome! But it's not enough air for paved road speeds. My 19.5's are a different story as 70 psi is the min I can run them. That's below the min pressure on the tables but approved by Toyo. I run 70/70 empty and 80/table for loaded. The most I generally ever need is 95 psi, but I have needed 110 once. Table pressures are what's required to carry the specific load. More pressure may increase stability, but much more than 10 psi too much can decrease traction, tire wear, and increase susceptibility to road hazards.

I've ran mine as low as 35 on the rear, table weight, and they wear great, have great traction, and don't get hot. XPS Ribs have a steel sidewalk and likely the reason for slight differences. They will also have a higher minimum pressure, thou neither table goes that low.

Yes the math has always put more air into the tires than the load inflation tables, but the tables are more accurate.

I have a twin scroll and it follows the 10° per psi fairly close at nearly all rpms. Pressure drop is pressure drop so I really don't see the single vs twin scroll having a measurable difference. The temperature drop is occurring after the inlet. The HE351 is a single scroll and from what I gather it's fairly close to the 10° per psi rule as well. How long were you at those numbers? I find that it takes a good 15-20 seconds for post numbers to stabilize. It's a rule of thumb and certainly not an absolute.

That's interesting that you were floating there. Maybe the 24V has different springs? The HPCR ISB is rated for 15 seconds up to 4200 rpms so I wouldn't expect float at stock boost levels (32 psi). Actually I do think the HPCR uses ~75lb springs so that would explain the 50 psi number.

MB calls for spec 4 different specs. 235.1 for temperate zones, 235.12 for all zones but temperate, or 235.13 and/or 235.41 for all zones. 235.1 is a GL-4 80wt oil 235.12 is a GL-4 140wt oil 235.13 is a GL-4 SAE 50wt oil. 235.41 is a GL-4 75w-90 oil So it looks like GL-4 is what it calls for. The Mobiltrans SHC DC is the only fluid that met 235.13. It's been discontinued and very little is known about it. I am not sure if it was a straight SAE 50wt or not. Mobil Delvac 50 is a MT-1 rated oil that claims it can be used on GL1-4 but it doesn't carry the GL-4 rating. MT-1 is a non-syncromesh manual trans rating. Personally I'd run a GL-4 and not a MT-1 if I owned a G56. I have read several reports of Delvac 50 being difficult in the winter. This isn't surprising given it's MT-1 and straight SAE50 ratings. I have no clue how it became so popular.. must be the herd mentality. It's not difficult to find the specs from MB and that points to GL-4 across the board. People are also using Delvac 50 in the NV4500 which also clearly calls for a GL-4

Here is a tire chart. The math method that Micahel does is how I used to do it; however, I think these are more accurate since they are published just for that reason. https://toyo-arhxo0vh6d1oh9i0c.stackpathdns.com/media/2125/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20170203.pdf

Yes, but they are often the Fram made Mopar filters and not the Fleetguard made ones. I prefer Donaldson Blue filters. Nothing else touches their ratings or life.

So much for a big leadership turn out.... It's supposed to be the busiest weekend in the hotels/campgrounds/roads of the year, or more. There are news articles on it every week or so right now.

Maybe the US gear one? But IIRC they are out of business.

Stock springs are fine if you keep the rpms stock and the boost below 50ish. If you either plan to rev it up or do a lot of boost then get springs. If you get springs then do pushrods. I did springs with my rebuild even thou I don't plan on rpms or boost. I just wanted it built tough! Turns out I needed them for the backpressure on the exhaust brake with my new cam. I can hit 75 psi of backpressure now!!

Their website says it's designed for towing recreationally up to 25K GCW.

The proper Amsoil GL-4 fluid for the G56 is the MTG 75w-90 manual transmission fluid. http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/manual/manual-transmission-and-transaxle-gear-lube-75w-90/?code=MTGQT-EA From the research I have done it's the closest to the Mercedes OEM fluid as we can find right now. I have sold it to several G56 owners with excellent results. Don't have him run the syncromesh MTF. Syncromesh is not a GL-4 fluid.

Some RV275 injectors and a adjustable boost elbow would be a good start. You will need boost and pyro gauges if you don't have them already. It doesn't take much to get a little extra hp out of these motors. Personally I would hate 3.55's and the NV5600 for towing any weight on interstates, but I run a taller tire. My 3.73's and my NV5600 suck at 60-70 in anything more than a 3% grade. It does tow great at 75 thou . With 245/75R17's being just over 30" on the rolling diameter it's quite as horrible thou, and actually spins a few rpms more at 65 than I do with 245/70R19.5's and 3.73's. 2000 rpms will get you 70 and it gets me 71. I prefer to be above 2000 rpms while towing heavy on grades which is why 60-70 mph is the worst to cruise at for me. 72-73 and everything runs great! I have contemplated the swap to 4.10's many times but I don't tow on the interstate as often as I do on highways and 5th gear with 3.73's is a great highway hill pulling gear.

I too still run CI-4+ oil in my truck and will do so until Amsoil stops making it. With my low annual mileage I like the synthetic for the better winter performance and still only change my oil once a year. The year after I rebuilt my motor I ran dino 15w-40 and it hated winter, even as "warm" as 25°F. Synthetic also does better at high oil temps and since I spend a lot of miles at 19-20K GCW I perfer synthetic then too.

There are lots of variables but altitude, intended use, and rpm range all have effects on primary sizing.

Are you sure it isn't the new front springs? 5100's firmed up my ride over OEM shocks but in a good way. The OEM's were spongy and the 5100's are crisp and it now handles the way it should empty or loaded.

I have ran many different shocks over the years and what I have learned is that I'll never again touch a Rancho shock but I will continue to buy Bilstiens. I have the 5100's on my truck right now and they are by far the best shock I have ever ran.

I frequent that spot often :-)

I am surprised there are still reservations available. When we started looking at booking a place last fall just about everywhere was already booked up.

Pre vs post is a variable that is generally linear with boost. There is about a 100° difference for every 10 psi of boost. This was a rule of thumb I had heard and after running a pre and a post turbo for a couple of years it's pretty darn accurate. The biggest difference I have seen on my setup is about 300°. The hottest post turbo temps I have seen is 1050° towing with a lot of power at 1800 rpms for a short time. The pre turbo temps were about 1200° and I was only making 15-18 psi... there is that rule of thumb. I prefer pre temps for some things and post temps for others. Post is a better indication of turbo cool down prior to shut down, and a better indicator of motor heat soaking. My post temps are always higher with low rpms/boost and a load. Post temps aren't ever even close to an issue above 2000 rpms. Pre temps are much faster reacting that post temps. If you're going to have one I recommend pre, but a single post is still useful if you know how to interpret them. It's not hard but there aren't a lot of people talking about post temps so it's harder to research. Most OEM pyro's, that I am aware of, are post turbo. 1250° pre is also just a rule of thumb. Timing and rpms will have the biggest effects on what acceptable EGT's are. For reference the QSB 480 5.9L marine engine, 480hp at 3400 rpm, has a manifold temp of 1301° at rated rpm/power. The turbine out temp is 925° and boost is 35 psi....pretty darn close to 100° per 10 psi. I always recommend against this procedure. What happens if you break a bit? You buy a new turbo!!!! You also have the turbo spinning at idle speed so any shavings that do go thru the turbo, which will happen, are going to hit the turbine blades with a high rate of impact. The higher the impact speed the higher the potential for damage. The best way, IMHO, is with the motor off on a cold motor, and don't use grease. The way a drillbit is designed to work will keep nearly all of the shavings out of the manifold. Just before you break thru hit it with a little compressed air to clean out the hole and then drill thru. The few shavings that do fall into the manifold will be blown thru the turbine wheel long before it gets enough speed up to do any damage. I also don't recommend grease because any shavings that are covered in grease that fall into the manifold won't get blow out until the grease melts which means the bits of shavings are hitting a spinning turbine wheel.

CR's love timing. The stock timing profile is very retarded due to the emissions requirements. 36 is fine for the 351 compressor wheel... maybe not so much on the turbine housing :-) UDC Pro lets you increase boost and use the wastegate to help control drive pressure.

Interesting. That goes to show how long it's been since I did anything besides UDC and UDC Pro. 1 used to be stock. Id be rather careful with 1400° EGTs on advanced timing. I don't like to see more than 1300° momentary.

Timing on 1 is stock and that's why you are so hot. Throw some timing at it. Timing is the #1 reason to run a tune on these motors, IMHO. The HE351 is good to 35-37 psi but the turbine is losing efficiency at that airflow.