AH64ID

I realize that, but the delta of his norm to his peak on the same trip with more weight and higher ambient temps tells me that the SAE 50 runs hotter. It's not a 100% direct comparison by it cannot be ignored either.

Interesting... Looks like the SAE 50 runs quite a bit hotter under load.

Very interesting. The power steering box pump pressure is a known/common issue on 3rd gens but I've never heard of it effecting the brake light. I'm not even sure how it's possible based on sensors and such.

Pretty cool. 1200us seems so short! Stock on a 3rd gen is about 2000 and a big tune can push 3000, and the pressure is higher. I wonder if the injector holes are bigger on 2nd generation? But that would decrease atomization. Tyler, did you ever get a Pro dongle?

Wowza... that's warm :-) I didn't realize the 2nd gen MAP sensor went so high.

From a tuning standpoint you aren't overfueling at cruise... that's not really possible. You can overfuel on acceleration or WOT but not cruising. If you were to overfuel in a cruise scenario you would accelerate and thus not be cruising. Make sense??? So it still doesn't describe how steady state EGT's are down without a timing change. On a single injection event ECM, without pressure control, the only real way to effect EGT's steady state is timing. It's fun looking at the differences that emissions and knowledge (time with system) made in the early vs late HPCR 5.9 tuning. Different tables and different names for tables really stick out. The early timing was in 2 tables which were steady state and transient (just like VP44 tables), whereas the late HPCR had 5 timing tables. Most of that was for emissions but what I find interesting, especially with this topic, is they completely dropped the steady state and transient labels and instead focused on air density and intake temp. Tyler... are you peak EGT's at mid rpm or high rpm? Or rather.. were they?

Not sure I follow??? Tuning doesn't change the hp/tq requirement to cruise at a certain speed. Changing the curve just puts you in a different part of the curve as the same power is physically required.

The 6.7 wouldn't be as bad as it is if the intake heater was before the EGR valve. With the grid heater being after the valve you have a ton of surface area for the EGR garbage to grab a hold of... on the bright side it's easy to clean :-) There are some after market grid heater options that may alleviate this issue, Glacier Diesel, but I don't know if they alleviate the issue or just relocate it to the intake passages/valves.

That sounds like a lot of timing!!! I've played with my cruise timing and never see that much of a change to EGT's with the amount of timing change I am comfortable with.

That's fairly surprising... but based on what I saw with ECT's and a operational fan this past weekend I buy that it has a lot to do with cooling ability. There are many different charts but the power requirement at 55 is often as much as double as 35. Throw in the benefit of gearing and the engine is just barely working at 35 compared to 55 so the EGT's aren't surprising in the least... If the wheel torque requirement at 35 is 1,000 it could be 2,000 at 55, but with gearing the engine torque would be 585 vs 2000!!! Those are arbitrary numbers for example. The actual wheel torque required was much less. Direct gear is going to be the coolest gearing based on torque reduction/increase wise but I really didn't expect that much of a delta in temperatures!!! The amount of torque going thru the gearbox still has to have some effect, thou in direct the gears are just spinning without any torque between the main and coutershaft.

I did my first towing with UDC Pro this weekend... and WOW. The only really big difference to the power portion of my tuning is that the pilot is removed at the rpms/loads I pull hills at.. so just a single event. Otherwise pressure, duration, and timing are relatively unchanged over the last 2 years or so. I made some tweaks to the OEM fan programming and it was noticeable. As long as I have been towing with my truck I have never heard the fan come on based on ECT's, ever... The OEM programming should have it start to engage at 210° but mine never did audibly, but I could see minor rpm increases with my touch but never enough to lower ECT's. I revised the initial ramp up rpms and ECT. I lowered the initial ECT to 207° since that is where the thermostat is full open. The grade I pulled this weekend is horsehoe bend hill. It's about 2 miles long and 6-8% for most of it. I normally pull the hard spots at 80% load, 1200-1250° EGT and 213-215° ECT running 63-65 in 5th and 2300-2400ish rpms. This last weekend I weighed in at 19,020 lbs right about 3 miles after the big grade I pulled. I pulled the hill at 1190-1200° peak, 80-85% load, and didn't hit 211° on ECT's. I would watch the ECT's hit 207° and the fan would start to come alive on the touch and then I would hear it!! The ECT's would drop to about 205° and the fan would disengage. It did that 3-4 times over the course of the hill and the highest it got, on the first cycle, was 210.98°. It didn't break 210° on the other cycles. Without the pilot (OEM pilot is around 12-13 mm3 at those rpm/load which is more than 10% of the main event) the load was a little higher than normal but the EGT's were a hair lower than normal and it was hotter than average with temps at 101° at the base and 97° at the peak. All in all.. UDC Pro FTW!! The towing experience with Pro is as much better than UDC as UDC was over Revo tunes.

Changing the topic back to EGT's and coolant temps... I did my first towing with UDC Pro this weekend... and WOW. The only really big difference to the power portion of my tuning is that the pilot is removed at the rpms/loads I pull hills at.. so just a single event. Otherwise pressure, duration, and timing are relatively unchanged over the last 2 years or so. I made some tweaks to the OEM fan programming and it was noticeable. As long as I have been towing with my truck I have never heard the fan come on based on ECT's, ever... The OEM programming should have it start to engage at 210° but mine never did audibly, but I could see minor rpm increases with my touch but never enough to lower ECT's. I revised the initial ramp up rpms and ECT. I lowered the initial ECT to 207° since that is where the thermostat is full open. The grade I pulled this weekend is horsehoe bend hill. It's about 2 miles long and 6-8% for most of it. I normally pull the hard spots at 80% load, 1200-1250° EGT and 213-215° ECT running 63-65 in 5th and 2300-2400ish rpms. This last weekend I weighed in at 19,020 lbs right about 3 miles after the big grade I pulled. I pulled the hill at 1190-1200° peak, 80-85% load, and didn't hit 211° on ECT's. I would watch the ECT's hit 207° and the fan would start to come alive on the touch and then I would hear it!! The ECT's would drop to about 205° and the fan would disengage. It did that 3-4 times over the course of the hill and the highest it got, on the first cycle, was 210.98°. It didn't break 210° on the other cycles. Without the pilot (OEM pilot is around 12-13 mm3 at those rpm/load which is more than 10% of the main event) the load was a little higher than normal but the EGT's were a hair lower than normal and it was hotter than average with temps at 101° at the base and 97° at the peak. All in all.. UDC Pro FTW!!

I'm guessing whitebird? What speeds in each gear?

I'm not all that versed on a 12V. How much tuning can you even do?? For bigger injectors on a common rail I would slightly decrease the throttle sensitivity and retard the timing at low rpms/fuel and increase the timing a little at higher rpms/flow... Not sure if that is even possible on a 12V. How much boost are you making when it starts to smoke?

At 1100-1200° and 2300-2500 rpms on a 90-100° day, or hotter, I will get to 213-215° and stay there. max allowable on the 190° thermostat is 225°. I did reprogram my fan a little with UDC Pro so I am curious if that will change anything while towing.

On my truck I'll run 1250° continuous and will allow short bursts to 1300° when towing. When I am not towing I don't care as much but I have a very difficult time breaking 1150° without a trailer. There are several factors that effect max sustainable EGT's and of those timing is the biggest. Prime example is the 04.5-07 5.9's. With stock tuning they are safe at 1450° sustained but on a tuned engine those temps will melt pistons. The QSB480, highest rated 5.9 from Cummins, is a marine engine that has a manifold temp of 1301° at rated power/rpm. I would really like to get a copy of that ECM to see how it's tuned.

Interesting and the weather makes me wonder if there wasn't wiring harness issues or corrosion. Any pics of the new baby truck?

Sorry to hear that! Did you replace the APPS? I would be surprised if the dealer jumped to a ECM for an APPS code. Yes the gasser will tow that small trailer quite well.

There should be a different sheet at the NV4500 uses a different spec, and non-interchangeable, fluid.

Just a matter of trusting a cheap 3rd party universal tester or the mfgr specs of the coolant.... I've never been overly fond of the test strips and prefer to use a specific gravity tester if testing is required. A little too much coolant is safer than little too little, IMHO. Assuming the strips are accurate you're right at the minimum coolant required for corrosion protection, but with a -40°F freeze point you're only a couple % above 50% coolant.. maybe 55% probably slightly less. Better to have more corrosion protection, IMHO.

Yes. A 50:50 ratio is what you want for most vehicles unless you live in the arctic.

On these engines with the amount of liquid they hold in the block I always suggest, after a good flush, to add the proper amount of concentrate first and then top off with distilled water. This way you know you have the proper amount of coolant. Not sure why Tyler's freeze point came in where it did with that little coolant but I can tell you there is no way I would trust the reading. It's just not enough coolant for proper winter protection or corrosion protection. Ph is a secondary reading on his test strips and isn't used in determining freeze point.

I would wonder about the accuracy of the test... Those numbers don't jive with the percentages. All my numbers were based on the smallest cooling system capacity. Something isn't correct.

That doesn't sound like enough, especially if you had some leftover. I have found two different sizes for the cooling system; however, even using the smaller size 2.5 gallons of coolant isn't enough. 2.5 gallons in a 6 gallon system is 41% coolant and it sounds like you didn't have quite 2.5 gallons of concentrate in there. 44% coolant is the minimum needed to prevent corrosion and pump cavitation. At 40% coolant it only has freeze protection to -12°F as well. The lower %age of coolant does transfer heat better and that could be part of why you are seeing the quicker cool off temps. I know it was discussed earlier about tap water, but if you have a 6 gallon system where only 4.5 gallons drain out you have 25% tap water. IMHO that's a lot of tap water, especially with G-05 which is known to not play nicely with other coolants so hopefully any minerals in tap water don't have issues with it. 6 gallons was the smallest size I found for the cooling system and I found some references that put it at 7.4 gallons.

I agree 100%. If you aren't sure then use the OEM numbers as you cannot go wrong.