JOHNFAK

Yessir - if your not going to TAP - it just isn't worth the $$ buying. Stick with a smarty or go lower like a EZ.

Not sure exactly what towing has to do with studs - same max boost and same cylinder pressure as same fueling. I would *think* 90% of the people here with a HX35 dont have studs - and no gasket issues. Not saying its not a good idea if its worth $400 to you - to me - only after a HX35.. here's a breakdown. To the OP - either way is fine. Theres no right or wrong here - just differences on opinion so dont get confused. CLICK BELOW TO SEE BREAKDOWN

What year truck do you have ? The 01-02 kits should have an adapter and one of those should fit. The tapped vp44 is what you will want to run in the end. You just put some rtv silicone around to seal it up. Get a pic uploaded. Just seems strange it wouldn't fit unless there's a problem on the truck .,, Glad you got it back working

Not if he's jumping the wrong wire to vp44 and has wrong harness and tried to install anyway. What year does the edge say on the physical box and did u buy it new

Studs - shouldn't need till you go bigger than a hx35.

Gauges will come with new juice and all hardware. Just confirm you have a hx35 .... On the compressor housing . Rest sounds good Best bit is you can swap and change most of the other stuff super easy to get what you want just not the tranny. Expect a 4k+ bill here. New turbos if you decide later just require a hx40 downpipe - about a $100 used.

First confirm what turbo you have on now This stuff is pretty easy to install just takes time. Where do u live ? If you post here or CF lots of guys normally willing to help ..., Isx helped me with injectors fist time and another guy helped me with my trans. Turbos are different in how they handle air and heat - just want them balanced. A superb will flow slightly more air and handle heat better than a hx35 .... Is it worth it - I don't think so unless unless you might do twins. Guys go bigger to balance their fueling and not doing it right 1st time ( like me) ... I'm about to do twins which is my fourth turbo. Get the tranny and programmer and guages. Install programmer yourself it's 4-6 hours first time with pyro and fp. Then go up from there depending if you want more hp.

Leave the tapped wire just don't connect edge to it right now until everything else working. I'd sort out that wiring harness and make sure you have the right model as its not just a different adapter they're not interchangeable between years

bad idea. Unplug everything - return it back to stock with MAP on and clear codes and take for a drive. Then check for codes. Only when everything is ok - go back and redo the install - and pay attention to the wiring diagram - its pretty clear when you look closely - just take your time - especially with the TAP and the wires. Why are you not plugging in the MAP ?

On similar thread.Anyone know if the main glass section is broken if its replaceable ? Or have to do the whole unit ?

Thought about talking to edge ? I doubt there's a program running in your truck - and never heard of it creating an issue (not saying it cant). Most are desintalled once programmer is removed. Call edge.

Heck definately go with DTT if your that close - cant beat being able to take an issues directly into a shop. Yup cant go wrong here. And hes a site sponser. SDX and CPP and F1 are other big injectors. But if you order everything off DAP you'll get the best deal and great products. Its a heck of a turbo. You have an auto but its a 98.5 so its probably a HX35. Stick with this to begin with - its easy to upgrade later just a new downpipe and turbo. Totally agree but its got no gauges. So its $600 for that and $300+ for gauges and gives him 60hp for $900. CTS will give him 120 HP for same money and be touch screen and adjustable and handle all guages. So it just has more bang for the buck. I loved the smarty just like in the thread. It just wasnt worth it for what it gave you HP and guage wise. But yeah what you say is a heck of a towing setup - small injectors and smarty - nice. I think the TM and the stacking feature is the best thing about smarty - but I think if you were going to higher HP - youd be better doing it with bigger injectors than electronics/stacking. Oh yeah. Make sure you overbuild the tranny slightly. Wish I had now rather than saving there. What I mean is if you think your shooting for 400HP have them build it for 600HP. Even if it costs you an extra $1k which it will. Just means you'll never have to worry about it again. I built mine up - but didnt do billet flex or billet input .... guess what I have to worry about now . If its a choice put the extra funds there rather than performance for now.

ok 3rd response and 3rd variation You'll find thats common based on peoples preferences and experiences with products. Nothing wrong with DTT. A reputable builder. Like pepsi said stick to those 5 and you'll be right.Juice CTS. I love it. NEVER had a problem with it - and comparing the CTS to a smarty not the same thing (sorry pepsi). Way better than smarty (I love the smarty tho - it just ain't worth it until your a 3rd gen). Same with my old EDGE - never a single problem. As for all the other stuff - just depends man - it gets expensive and what you consider moderate power.For just towing - small injectors and hx35 boost elbow and juice will work well. No studs. Cheap power.Go beyond a 60mm turbo (like a PS62) and you''ll need to think about studs and bigger injectors than just electronics.Id seriously check out garmon/goerand. If warranty is what you want - cant beat goerand- but you pay for it.

Correctly is subjective ha ! What I mean is my shifts were a little early do he bent the plate on the engine mount to allow shifting just a little later in rpm ...

I never knew this and just read it on CF - but from Frank at Revmax . http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/474289-could-dexron-mercron-right-2.html "We recommend +4. Now, you can run Dex 3, but ONLY if you are running a triple disc TC.. If you run Dex 3 on a single disc unit, be prepared for converter clutch shudder as the friction modifiers are not the same." Tried changing your fluid and putting clean ATF4 ?

I didnt have a guage to test. Its a Revmax VB. Original one set the line pressure too high and put the truck into limp mode. So they shipped another one with lower line pressure. When I had the internals rebuilt by DTT builder - he pulled the VB and had a look - and put the gauges on the test port whilst driving to watch the line pressure whilst shifting/RPM - but unsure what they were.

Im guessing injector too. Dont get the 1500 rpm he has to hold the brakes down though.

Prebuilt by vendor.

Based on Amazon being best price I could find Thinking Akebono Pads http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019HWD1M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER Raybestos Rotors Advanced Tech http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C6WKKA/ref=gno_cart_title_2

Yeah I am really thinking of a combo like this right now. Wish there was a website with my reviews on these brands/products. Thx for the info. --- Update to the previous post... Nope changed mind Amazon had best prices I could find and options Thinking Akebono Pads http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019HWD1M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER Raybestos Rotors Advanced Tech http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C6WKKA/ref=gno_cart_title_2

wow - 15 and driving a CTD - how sweet - welcome fella

Charleston SC for another weeksThen outer banks for 1-2 months.

So then any you recommend ?

yeah your situation is a little different. Im going with 3rd gen rotors and pads - so Im happy to put on the OEM replacements for $60 each as long as they work well. But if they don't - happy to spend more. Would love and exhaust brake - but not happening any time soon. So good brands ? OEM or aftermarket ? Anyone heard of powerstop and got reviews ?