JOHNFAK

Cowboy - that was the problem ...... backwards and alternator - so was looking for overlap on regular engine barring ....... but should have been like you said. Will check again tomorrow afternoon. thx

Alright. So putting back together - decided to check valve lash. Being a 24 p7100 ..... no timing marks for TDC. So was using ryan (isx) overlap method. Seems straight forward enough. Only problem is -- settting #1 lash for example #6 exhuast is fully come up - so closed. #6 intake just starts to transition ..... moving down So #1 should be able to adjust both valves. Yet Exhaust has no slack - fully enagged. Intake is very loose ... over 0.030 Somehtngs not right - your meant to be able to relas both intake and exhaust.

Correct. Initially head was fireringed ........ didn't hold for whatever reason. So a new head was put on and both the head and block were o-ringed. Still trying to get a little more info on the engine .........but I retested #5 this morning and it was also at 375 (think it was actually the batteries/crank not the adapter.....) So basically 375 across the board ...... cold engine.

Can't think of anything else. Back in contact with PO and he says the truck has always been quite nasty/aggressive with that pump ...... Was 1000 hp at one stage. oringed head and block after fire ring gave up the ghost arp 625 low mile engine ...... Waiting more specific details here ........

Questions. anything else to check apart from pushrods and valve lash when I put the rockers back. also ...once it's all back together..... And after a run ..... Can I do a hot compression test on just 1 cylinder. Basically leave 2-6 all hooked up .... Disable FSS and lift pump. Disconnect #1 lines and pull injector and run compression on that cylinder only.

Just because you guys are so impatient. 355-375 on back 5+6. Hard to be exact due to guage increment as well as it look like I lost 20psi with the coupler - went back and retested on different hole. 1- 375 2-375 3-375 4-375/385 5-355/375 6- 355/375 so given cold engine ...... seems ok .......... Think Im going to pull rockers tomorrow and look for bent pushrods.

Oh wasnt even sure what you guys were talking about. Then I saw the pic change. Yeah - thats a FB photo so I think it must have happened from logging in from my IPAD ..... normally I login from my phone or laptop. Ha. Got a 90 adapter - built it from a straight/90 degree brass/coupler ....... hope it holds 400psi Off to walk dogs and eat ....

Yo mean a 90 brass adapter on top of a straight chuck ....? Then to gauge ? Just not sure who will sell good quality stuff on noon Saturday's .......guess we'll find out

1-375 2-375 3-375 4-375/385 gotta find some adapter somehow for 5+6..... To get air chuck on 45 angle don't know how hard that will be

375-385 on 4 Hit a problem. The air chuck is not angled. Can't get the guage on it with the firewall. Guess going to have to get and angled adapter and make a join somehow.

No just 1 profile. didnt think about the copper washer ...... Not even needed on the snap on has its own built in washer. 1-3 ..... 375 psi on cold engine

Was only from perspective of not having compressed air run up side of slug and poor reading .....

Gotcha. other weird part .... No oring on the slug. Not sure if I'm meant to pull from the injector ...... Guess will become evident when I put it in. so cover up the holes ?

How do you mean ..... Three cranks ? Im guessing you pull ALL injectors to reduce cranking force on the 5 not being measured for battery/starter etc ........ Do you typically plug the holes ..... Thinking oil getting in from head on cranking other cylinder also even though I will disable fueling via lift pump and FSS I'm expecting I'll see some fuel from the p7100 from what's left in the pump delivery cylinder ..... After that I guess it will be dry .... Instructions say say to do on operating temp engine ..... Wasn't really planning on this at least this go around ...... Not overly concerned on numbers being high ..... More concerned on variation in 1 cylinder .....as main reason for doing this is try to isolate if anything wrong with engine for smoke at idle ....... Any issues with this . Can always repeat later if had to ..... Don't fancy working on hot engine .....

Best explanation I've heard ^^^^^ thankyou sir

I know. On the other hand .... I've seen things with these trucks you wouldn't believe in terms of engines holding up. Over 2000 egt for sustained runs ...... Unless he towed a 10% grade a WOT ....... seriously doubt he stuffed his engine with a superchips and 7x.010 ........ Not disagreeing - just taking the other side on not having him jump a cliff :)

Stop freaking him out Boost leak .... guages ..... check air filter.

Primary Boost Secondary Boost Drive Pressure Trans Temp EGT Fuel Pressure Damn she is angry. I would be too in 30 ...... think we hit 87 today .... around 92 with the shade factor :):):)

OK. My mates snapon kit arrived today - will aim to do this saturday. So assuming (steps) Remove All injectors. Disable fuel (remove airdog fuse as well as manually flip up FSS solenoid) No need to remove exhaust rocker (SNAPON) - just plug in and bolt down. Crank and Measure. Move to next cylinder. Anything else ? Leakdown ..... remove guage and add compressed air. Listen for leaks.

You need to step it up..... if your to be taken seriously :( :) :) :)

Talk with Ryan => http://www.bluetopsteeringgears.com/ This was from Bill (W&F) - he used to work or his dad did for redhead. 2/3rds the price ...... Im going to order today. --- Really starting to wonder if the smoke from my truck is valve leak also ......... not sure as its more grey white ........ than dark/blue....... will get a compression and leak down going (thanks TFAORO) .... next couple weeks ...... and go from there.

ANY UPDATES ??

Drive shaft center bearing. It's usually that or more commonly ujoints.