JOHNFAK

yeah got that now ........... what turbo your running ??? And better/worse/same mileage with the F1 +75 over the rv275 's ?

yeah a lot cheaper than the $100 kit snow sells I'll ship ya a new1

damn #6:banghead:

almost there guysAll hooked up and tested (manually).Now just need to get my boost port hooked up (don't have a 1/2" drive) and TAP the intake manifold.All wired and reservoir all set and clamped down.Some more pics.1st run should be tomorrow.Shows tank strapped downShows pump and 1/4" tubing and power wire running to front of truck

Hey RussMan - I have been up and down this path for the last 12 months.Its hard to say what to do as obviously spending $3k to upgrade new clutch packs and increase line pressure and add some upgraded internals + TC will mean you have a tranny that will last longer and perform better. CAT has a tranny builder he uses in CA that will do a rebuild for like $1200. (Tranny internals only). Only bad part is the shipping - but since he has 900k miles seems like a awesome deal.If you just want to do a mild upgrade - which may be the way to go - then consider a (*) Used Edge Mileage/EZ - JAcob has them for like $200(*) Used Smarty - $400 (*) USed edge juice with attitude - don't tap Vp44.That way on your truck your only adding around 60 HP and more timing. That shouldn't do too much to the tranny as long as your not romping it. Then consider a valve body - around $300-$400.I know funds are tight for you - so I would seriously consider the edge EZ. Then add a tranny temp gauge.If you baby it - that should give you a little more get up and go and less downshift and small increase in mileage.If you want to go above that - then its a new TC + VB - probably run you $900 + install ...... but then you could consider tapping the VP44 for +120 HP. EGT's then an issue towing.

Didn't realise that - thought you were running RV275's also ........ what turbo you running Cat - it says jhook in your SIG so a HY35 still ?? Buy some +150's ....... then you can be sure you are not losing too much from the 240's then trade out the 240's for a set of +100's That way you still have a "spare" set ......... and you can drop down to the 100's if required for EGT etc:thumbup2:

looks awesome apart from that $55 price tag. Oh well ...... bought some $7 crows feet thanks tho !

ha ! :thumbup2:Yeah - I really started out just wanting lower EGTs ....... and thought methanol seemed like a good bang for buck. Then thought would like some extra power when I put my foot down . - not often - but fun when you do. So with that came the +75's ........... and a HX35 to come to help handle that extra fuel.Will see what happens - I figured worst case I can remove most of this stuff and go back to stock injectors and no MWI ..... and not be out too much $$ since I am getting on sale / second hand. You gonna meet me for a drink sometime your stuck near TEMPE AZ cat ???

Cool. I assumed that the pressure really was converted to the extra HP - so essentially as long as you don't go over that 450 ish mark - then should be ok. I am pretty much planning on running straight water - to reduce EGT's and pick up 30HP. I am sure a couple of times I will run some methanol for fun ....... but nothing too heavy .................maybe 30% (straight windhield washer).

ok you fellas scared me back down to +75HP. I sent the guys an email to change over. Remember I will be running h20 injection as well - so that should cool and extra 150-250 degrees. Will keep you posted on numbers ................ gotta get me that HX now --- Update to the previous post... How come - you said before but I don't get the reason. As long as I remain under 400HP which I should be right at (230 stock + 75inj + 120 edge + 30 WMI) * 0.85 [15% driveline loss] ........ => 387 HP I mean all its doing is adding vapour into the combustion cylinder - which gives more pressure -> but reduces cylinder temperatures as well as EGT temps. If I was breaking 450-500 I could see the need for o-ringed head and ARP studs ............. or is there more to it ?

yeah thanks - I have a sale pending on my RV275's Going to try the CPP +100 s ........ and with my methanol kit hoping should be good power when I push on it - but still ok mileage when I baby it. Now need to find a decent HX35 - keep your ears out

The HX35 and the hx35/40 hybrids don't have this though right ? So good to go ?? Or is there years specifics as well ?? --- Update to the previous post... oh yeah .... W+F ....... what do you think about dumping the RV275's and going to +75 or +100HP (on a HX35). Just didn't really seem to gain much or notice much from the RV275's.

Why the smarty ?? Just gives you a little more throttle/response at bottom end right ?? As well as a couple features ?? From memory they run around $600 new and $400 second hand ? Can get a set of +100HP sticks for $340 on sale (new) ........................or nozzles for like $180.

Still - thats $75 and you got to have them balanced/shimmed and pop tested locally Seems ok. How about you come down here and visit slacker !!!! If I can decide to do the mods - we have a bit to do !!!! 50/50 at the moment on that decision

Here's a coupe more pics - very little progress -waiting on 'check valve' and been busy.Will try and get done this weekend Adding controller to trime by emergency brake (behind) drivers sideTrim back on (not wired up) hence mess Switch on right for turning WMI on/off. (Silver switch is for tranny cooler).Home made 7 Gallon Tank. 1/4" valve punched through with o-ring and epoxy to hold.

CoolYou gonna put the +80hp back on ?? I am thinking of that next as well as a HX35 or that hybrid I sent.Keep me posted on your stalling and/whatever Happy thanksgiving man

Happy Turkeys one and for all !!!! :hyper:Just watching football and thinking about a few truck things .................. hope you all have a great day with family and/or friends !!!!!!!

Hey guys - replaced my injectors 1x with ISX holding my hand (where's the "flower" icon ) anyway Thinking of getting rid of my RV275's and going to +75 => +100HP ...... together with hx35/hx40 hybrid. That with my methanol/water kit should bring right at 275->425 HP which is as far I as think I should go without new headstuds/bigger turbo. So thinking a couple things. (1) What you think between full injector replacement or just nozzles ?? (2) Think of these http://www.cumminsperformanceparts.com/cpp-injectors.html + 100HP and http://www.dieselautopower.com/product_p/35-fslash-40%20turbo%20budget.htm or something else in some price point ? I haven';t seen anything and guys reckon they are on par with DDP. (3) ok main part/reason of this thread. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/injectors/injectors.htm Step 10 of INSTALL. When retorqing the fuel line - what tool do you use as you can't use a normal socket etc due to the line ??? I think ISX and I just guestimated this part ......is there something that can be made or bought to go with the torque wrench ?? (4) ON torque wrenches was going to get these. One for inch pounds and one for ft pounds. The foot pound one acts as a calibrator also. Seem ok ?? INCHPOUNDS http://www.amazon.com/Michigan-Industrial-Tools-Torque-Wrench/dp/B000H43VU0/ref=sr_1_14?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1290725074&sr=1-14 FOOTPOUNDS http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-940759-Powerbuilt-Digital-Adaptor/dp/B0031QPJZG/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1290725074&sr=1-11 THANKS

Hey man Not sure if you had any other deverlopments here. My stalling is back a bit more with the drop in temps - around 38--48 depending. I haev noticed something tho - if I do the following - it seems to stall more 1) Start truck and wait for engine warm light to go off 2) Let truck idle and warm up for good 5 mins 3) Move truck into gear and STALL Now doing this - appears to reduce the frequency of stall 1) Start truck and wait for engine warm light to go off 2) 2 quick taps of the throttle as soon as light goes off to release some white smoke 3) Engage gear ...... no stall No idea - just noticed based on driving habits Going to look at some other upgrades to truck for other reasons and see where I am with it after. Side note - do you run this ?? http://www.dieselautopower.com/product_p/35-fslash-40%20turbo%20budget.htm I think its pretty much a direct bolt it right - except hy35 has the VCLAMP - this is direct bolt in and couple extra bolts ?? You like ???

Ditto !!!

ok. Any ideas on how to join two pieces of tubing together. 1 will be 1/8th comming out of of the boost tap/side of block supplying boost/air. (Hard Plastic polyproplene) The other will be 1/4 or 3/8th (not sure yet) comming out of back of controller (rubber plenum) Guessing I can just thread the small plastic into the rubber tubing off back of controller - but how to make sure it seals ok and holds ? Some ties be enough and something to seal ??

How much for ats arc flow ?

awesome stuff - that would be appreciated - interested

I want one !!! nice