JOHNFAK

I updated in other read - ROCK ON !!! Whats wrong with a diesel bath - we should bottle it .......... mmdbs.com (MoparMenDieselBathSpray.com)

MAN THATS FRIGGIN AWESOME !!!!!! :ahhh::ahhh::hyper::hyper::woot: Serious - I know how stressed I get over stuff that is broke and costs $$ - so I KNOW you must be as high as kite right now !!!!! So the analysis was a bad head and leak ?? Are you taking to machine shop ? And going to have them point the weak spot ?? SWEEET !!!!

interesting - subscribed .... so whats the plan - the new machined head going on today/tomorrow ??

Thanks. Yeah I am already going to have 1 or 2 holes in my air elbow/manifold so I think I might go with the side of the map to keep out of way and seperate. Where can I get those parts - especially the tubing ??? Without buying the whole gauge kit ..... And what sizing/spec is it ? Prefer to pick up locally if napa etc carry it - just cause the shipping wil be more than the parts --- Update to the previous post... ahhh found it http://www.dieselmanor.com/dm_products/DM-TK14.asp should be able to get that between lowes/auto store (nylon brake hose)

Hey guys Where can I buy just the boost adapter and tubing for a gauge ? Also maybe a 'tee' for it ?? In case I wanna run a gauge later (its for my MWI setup 1st) . sizes ?? and is it better too hook up like http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/iat-sensor/iat-sensor.htm next to MAP or with boost bolt like http://www.dieselmanor.com/dm_products/DM-BSTBLT.asp thx

Cool. The 35MPH and 45MPh are the standard throttle/speed positions for lockup of the TC. eg with OD off - the TC lockup solenoid will activate around 35MPH. 45MPH for OD on. So sounds normal to me - can you describe more or take a video ?? Doesn't sound like a TC issue unless you feel it slipping under power ?? Do you have an upgraded VB ?? If you don't I'd highly recommend it as one of the best $100-$400 you'll spend. Makes the shifts firmer and smoother (more defined)

yeah - thx - I love HF - but for more 1 piece tools that you don't use too often. A/C was making me a little nervous. Guess it could happen with any cheaper brand .......... think I might try and buy from a store I can take back if issues tho ... --- Update to the previous post... Anyone know if this would work with a GOOD compressor. http://www.amazon.com/FJC-6900-Air-Vacuum-Pump/dp/B001E7XHPI/ref=sr_1_37?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1288552449&sr=1-37 I neled a compressor for my truck/RV tires and inflatable camping stuff - so would rather spend money on the compressor doing the work ?? Unless there is a unit that does vacuum for R134 and also switches to air compressor ??

Yeah call quad - they were pretty good to deal with when I had my issues to be fair. What happens when you completely take the xzt+ off - shuddering stop ?? I would 1) take it off 2) put back on and make sure connections to MAP etc are good 3) try different tunes 4) call QUAD 5) get a http://www.quadzillapower.com/products/index.cfm/p/Adrenaline-Dodge-98-02 Can u fill out your truck specs/year/bombs etc ?

Was waiting for you - hahah - didn't know whre u got yours - what did u pay ? And your leak was an o-ring ???

Yeah came wit hoses 72" - in description. Yeah - was really just wondering if the amazon ones might be slighlty better quality ?? Was gonna see what mike used - but going to guess 1 level better than what I am looking at. Don't want any A/C parts flying in pieces past my face. thx for the info

Can you explain the "clearances" in the TC you mean. Isn't the TC in a fluid coupling prior to lockup ........ so I could see a colder/denser fluid adding 'drag' like mike mentioned with the TC finding harder to move the thicker fluid, but would assume if it was a true lockup like you say (mechanical or electronic) it would be an almost immediate death of the engine. I'm kinda with isx in that there must be a way to reduce the load or work around the issue ........ weather its adjusting the fuel mappings via a programmer, a heat source, IAT, a heater grid delete/change ........ increase idle RPM's when cold, something thanks for the feedback ...... its been an ongoing issue for jim (and now me) !! :P

But thats just the gauge and then you need to add a 2.5CFM or higfher pump which HF has $100. So thats $160. The amazon one had both gauge + pump for $139, plus shipping. Not sure which one is better tho.

Dunno - not had the issue since the apps reset But I know the one you mean. ... will keep an eye on it.

yeah I had alot of problems with the XZT+ or whatever. Maybe a diff tune would help. Else and Edge EZ or Diablo powerpuck seem better hate to say it. I sent it back and got an edge and never looked back I like their higher end products though :P

Don't get the lockup clutch only because 1) Wouldn't this kill the engine dead straight away - and jim and I both removed the transmission relay which I think would prevent lockup engaging - no diff 2) excessive drag - did he mention anyway to fix/overcome it ?? thx mike

Part # 6715- R134a Brass Manifold ? 72" standard hoses ? Quick Couplers so basically this one http://www.amazon.com/6715-R134a-Brass-Manifold-Gauge/dp/B000HTRN9K/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1288497400&sr=1-1-fkmr1

Yeha the clutch cycles on an off for like 1 second at a time after I added 1/3 can of freon - all I had at this stage. So clutch is engaged. Guess I am going to have to vacuum it down and then refill it - and look for leaks again ............. another $200+ - blah This kit looks ok ??? ...... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CWBF2M/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=A33XM790VULSX3

So that leaves 2) My clutch is cycling - but I still get warm air - I assume there would be enough in their to allow the low port voltage to detect the pressure and switch on the clutch - and I would then get cold air - so why is it warm ? bad dryer/condensor - or a thermosat issue - or no feon but enough air PSI to cycle clutch ?

Yeah - I really don't want to - but only thing I haven't replaced is compressor (which is working) and the low pressure line and the condersor/dryer. Yeha -I was just looking at harbourfreight and ebay. Will also check out the auto stores and wally world. Is the harbour pump and guages ok - I only saw the $100 pump and the $60 gauges at HF. Was this combo at ebay .... http://cgi.ebay.com/New-FJC-A-C-Vacuum-Pump-R134-Manifold-Gauge-Set-KIT6-/270612484234?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f01c2d08a

Mike - how many orings and how much ? Problem with that is I would need to vacuum it back down and regas it - another $70 or whateverSo 2 q's; 1) Anyone got any experience with the stopleak freon ?2) My clutch is cycling - but I still get warm air - I assume there would be enough in their to allow the low port voltage to detect the pressure and switch on the clutch - and I would then get cold air - so why is it warm ? Should I just buy a $20 kit and fill it up again and see if I can detect the leak ??

Hey guysWell I checked the clutch today and sure enough not spinning/cycling. So I checked the low side pressure - around 20psi - so I gassed her up a little with what freon I had left and sure enough clutch came back on.I CANNOT find a leak. I rubbed everything down with a towel - both high and low lines and check inside the cab. The only green dye I found was a little on the low pressure port itself - but I cleaned it up and allowed it to cycle a few mins and didn't see any die. I have thrown $1k at this an now have WARM air. So I am getting to the point I think I either have to start replacing more parts - which I don't want to do ($$) or put some 'stop leak' in it. I hate to do that but not sure.Anyone have any experience with stop leak freon ??? alsoI notice the condensor/drier is warm - not cold - I don't know if thats due to system completely out of freon or not ?? It has enough pressure to cycle the clutch now and STILL warm - but no idea how much freon there is in there.thx

We're watching you ISX ......... we KNOW EVERYTHING

yeah - spoken with a bunch of people and the consensus seems to be once your rolling - speed and wind resistance have more to do mpg than weight. eg from CF "Just to throw my 2 cents in on the MPG thing I can guarantee you that once you're on the highway it's all about the wind resistance..weight doesn't seem to matter. I went from a 7500lb 5'er to a 9000lb 5'er and got BETTER mileage (about 1mpg) because the newer one was a lot more aerodynamc. " So - I guess towing my 5th wheel with that wind resistance and getting 11-13 is ok I was was always wondering how these guys towing 5000lb more than me got same mileage - sounds like its more to do with that big parachute rather than the weight on open hwy

Any uypdates ?

Thats what I meant. Sell it on CF for $40 inclusive shipping. Then either make your own elbow for $10 or buy one for $17-$20. Then you made $20 ........ so your turbo is now only $230