JOHNFAK

Would think quite a few - just like us Never got that feeling from him. Not saying guys don't do that - my impression is if he knew of something he would discuss it. Also - lots of guys running 3x disks on CF and not much/any talk of stalling like ours I could find. What I mean is - if you can keep it from stalling (increase throttle) and engaged 'D' ... and move the truck a little - it doesn;t seem long before the stall is gone. eg move back into 'P' then 'D' again - has the viscocity/temp of the fluid increased that much by then ?? But you both said it dies even at 750 rpm right ? So its being shutoff (fuel/power ?) just PRIOR to the engine being dragged down sometimes right ?? Else it would still hit ~450-500 and THEN die.

This makes most sense to me ...... but here's a few questions 1) Frank at Revmax says never heard of that as an issue. Now I know doesn't mean it hasn't happened but its not like these guys sell 1 or 2 converters a month. Like he said many many customers in very cold conditions. 2) Why when you put it into 'D' or 'R' just for a few seconds - and then back it no longer stalls - I mean its not like the ATF has had a chance to warm up - so is it a drainage/fluid level issue ? Don't see how the viscoscity changed that quickly. 3) If we are thinking viscocity of fluid again (cold and heavy TC) ......... why does it happen at those high RPM's ........ ISX and jim both noticed it still stalls at 750+RPM - that doesn't seem to be dragging the engine down in that case -> it looks more like something killed the engine dunno - just some q's/thoughts:shrug:

Awesome awesome awesome :hyper: What are the specs for various years and tolerances in compression ?? *doh* - reread "In general, you are going to want to see at least 375 psi all across the board. In real life, 9/10 when you check a motor that runs good it will be above 400 , 450 500 psi depending on the motor"

eeek I just moved to Tempe. No cover for truck or RV.what the heck.yeah - post pics - sorry man

What happens to your RPM's at this time - stable ??? Or jump around ? IF so how much ??

yeah sucks being in AZ - 61 this morning - started at 790rpm and dropped to 620 via edge. Might have to drive up to the mountains and see if I can get it cold enough - else wait till end of NOV etc. Spoke with revmax - frank - he says he never heard of stalling issue with any trucks and they sell a lot of units in cold climates - I trust him - so not sure now about TC specifically putting any "additional" load above design - just going with the numbers of how many units they must sell. jim - what happens if you disengage your grid heaters ............ just curious

You have a 99 - won't the key trick work to pull codes ??? Check for fuel line restrictions. Not sure about at those low speeds - but I had a badly pinched fuel supply line (will killed my vp44) - and at certain speeds on thottle the whole truck shook around like I was on some bad magic carpet ride. Enough to give me a headache quick. You can also use MM vp44 diagnostics flow test http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/lift-pump-diag/lift-pump-diag.htm basically bump starter with fuel supply line going into bucket. Measure fuel. Should be greater than 1.33 liters.

No kidding. Man thats neat stuff. ISX would be in the 40mpg range !!! HAHAHAHAHAHA

-- just an updatethis issue has not yet returned, been around 10 days now.

Well found out wallyworld does lifetime balance and rotation for $30so went that route. Seems to have helped with the wobble up front, although I think I have an alignment issue also.Guys at walmart worked on blancing/rotation for 40 mins .......... so probably worth the $30 ----- since I can do every 10k miles Those beads still look neat.

There in Phoenix or nearby right ? If your in town (Im here for 3 months) let meet up for a beer or a coke if you have time - I know your busy hauling ! --- Update to the previous post... Heck no kidding - I just saw that form ........ call em .......... they sound good and sure they will walk you through it ........

Cat *) How much to ship your tranny to/from your guy in LA ?? *) How much for the converter to be cleaned up and stall rate raised ??

Yeah a couple guys here are hooked up with the nascar/drag scene - will find out ....... I think for convenience will run water mostly , then a bit of walmart for ease to get ....... but definately wanna run a few tanks on 50/50 to see --- Update to the previous post... 1 quick side question - whats the drive/terrain like from Seattle through to anchorage ........ each way ?? curious

lmao - just checked into 5 GALLON ethanol - $29 . But $80 shipped (pat due to HAZ MAT $25 fee). NiceEven on 20% use ...... thats 25 gallons for $80 or $3.20 per gallon. Think I will be running straight water unless I want some HP. :)Yeah agree on dyno - just thought I'd post ......... too much variation and every truck/setup is diff.

I just bought a snows 2nd hand - $220. Here's my thoughts. I pinged Mike on it - but I was confused with his response - just cause it was too technical for me - hahah I am looking at it for towing mainly (but will run it daily). Currently on small inclines running @60mph in OD on Level 2 edge as I start to push fuel my EGT's hit 1100 and my PSI hits 19-21. My thoughts are I can run water (free) for EGT reduction ~200 ......... then I can run same hills in level 4. I am hoping the advanced timing, lower EGT and possible reduced boost - basically less engine load - will net me at least +1mpg towing. On a trip to alaska and back alone (next year) it will then pay for itself. If I could hit 2mpg - then I'm making money. (What I mean here is I think if I see any mpg increase it won't be because of my SNOW injection - it will just be because it allows me to run edge higher). I will also play with methanol mixes for extra HP - just for giggles. Anyway - will obviously need some help hooking it up ....... but happy to be a guinea pig for recording some results for MWI. Thinking I will do 100 mile round trip through the mountains with no MWI. Record. Then do same trip with MWI set to inject over ~15 PSI or something (hills). Either way subscribed. Interested also on otehr results - guys I spoke with on CF LOVED it. I didn't get any hard numbers on MPG tho - so like you jim - more keen to see my own numbers. Propane - hadn't even heard about it until you/mike talked about it the other day - thats interesting stuff, the figures off that wiki - wow. john --- Update to the previous post... 1998 CTD http://www.snowperformance.net/dyno_chart_view.php?type=diesel&dck=11 2002 CTD http://www.snowperformance.net/dyno_chart_view.php?type=diesel&dck=10 2004 CTD http://www.snowperformance.net/dyno_chart_view.php?type=diesel&dck=4

I went out and tranny fluid was 71 (warm due to OAT of 80). My RPM's started at 800 and dropped to 640 moving into 'R' (mine happens in 'R' or 'D'). So thats a 160 rpm drop warm OAT. Will get some cold figures soon.

You got an accurate idea of what your RPM's go from when in 'P' to 'D'. I'm gonna go out and turn my edge to display RPM and see what it is from and too. Will post in a minute. Could be different issues (mine/yours) ?? Or maybe the 3x TC drops us both 80% of the way ........ then the exra 20% to push you over is fuel related for you ....... and injector related for me ??

Man I hope it fixes your issues ...... REALLY REALLY DO !!! (feel for ya) ............. good luck

Well - I looked at it this way. I don't know if I will have truck in 3 years - and my tranny with my new VB+TC might last that long. If it doesn't - its more likely to start slipping or break an input shaft. All I would need to do is drop my VB and TC out, ship off my tranny to be rebuilt ($1200+ship) and then reinstall with new clutches and harparts. So - I am not really out of pocket - as long as I do work myself - and I saved at least $1k, for now. Now having said that - do I stress my tranny will/may go in 6 months when I toe - yes. So on another hand having done it ALL the 1st time would have been a good option also. No guarentee that a new tranny won;t leave me stranded either - so I am just going to run this one until it breaks. Either way really works. Just depends on appetite for $$. IF you try to rebuild one you can pick up a good core for 200-300 (one is for sale here currenly) and yes that would be awesome (please post thread !! hahaha). Finally, the guys here - especially W+F above really helped me out a lot on tranny especially ........... its a great site for all really good views and advice - learning heaps:thumbup2:

Hey Well sounds like the exact road I was on (still am on ?) ........ and your right about CF compared to here. If your tranny fluid looks good, and its holding and shifting well now - I say keep your stock tranny and buy a shift kit $100 and a single disk revmaax tc $400.Then you should be able to hold MOST of the power of the edge. And depedning on the clutches you might get 1 year or 3 years.In mean time save up. Then buy a fully built tranny - anywhere from $2500 to $5000k depending on how much you wanna spend and how much you wanna through at it. !!Thats it $400 - is not much and gives you a chance to save $3k-$5k.Now if you have to pay to have all the work done (tranny drop and reinstall and valve body/shift kit work etc) then get the edge ..... muck around with it until it starts slipping bad - and then get a shop to put in a built one for you.I recommend revvmax and performanceinnovations for value $2500or goerand for high end ($4-$5k).Cat alaso knows a guy who builds tranny's for $1200. He sounds awesome. But you wuld have to log on freight and get you tranny to him (downtime)Good luck

Yeah - lucky I did that when I bought my truck shame I didnt know anything about vp44 tranny power enhancements exhaust/egts valves/headwork injectors A/C ..... so on .. and so on .... $$ now I do ( a little)

will PM you mike offline - so this thread doesn;t go too far off track :P pretty sure just bought it

Hey manSorry to hear.Subscribing back to this one.Im not sure for me. The batteries DEFINATELY helped - no idea why though. However I don't think that was the cause. Even after ISX and I took the injectors out - it still drags down a lot - but hasn't yet stalled. But now in AZ coldest outside temps are 55. Need to be closer to 45 to know for sure.I am suspecting something with the 3x disk TC. Draws down on the engine more when fluid not warm. I think the bigger injectors to "aggrevate" the situation with more pop pressure ...... I just think it was a tipping point for me......... pure speculation ............. but then you add your fuel deal into mix .......... maybe similar but seperate issues ?? Be interesting to see if your injector cleaner trick works again just as a 1 off - that would show it fixed it 2x.

Yeah true - but if it doesn't have the crack (normally under the side by the tranny heater passenger) then would be good indicator its gonna be fine. Plenty of people with a 53 block holding good numbers. The price for a 60k mile engine tho is awesome !! I mean if you could get for 1100 then its not much more than the head alone. And its the full engine.

Yeah I am running 265's :POnly reason I thought balancing over "toe" etc as I don't feel it pull or anything in steering wheel. Well I *think* I just bought a WMI set 2nd hand. I was looking at the "group buy" here ..... but that was hard with the wife and $$ - so if I get it - I will need a hand hooking it up I am sure - so will do a complete writeup. And then link it to Jims .............:thumbup2:Looking forward to running my edge on levels 4,5 towing ............ see if I can hit 12-14 instead of 11-13... Just hope my tranny holds !!