JOHNFAK

thanks mate For me - is there a simpleton way to do it ? Kinda like what I said ? Can I just use the cigarettelighter 20A fuse and piggyback off of that for a power source when switched ? Or one of the others ? Would like to understand the auto electronics better one day --- but that ain;t gonna happen today. Especially reducing the load via relays/boards ....... I understand teh concept - but not the practice

Any ideas on how to build something like this ?? http://www.alcohol-injection.com/filtered-self-sealing-tank-tap-274.html I need to buy one - but don't wanna wait for delivery right now .......... will buy one when I move tank to back of my bed. Unless I can make a good one now. --- Update to the previous post... called some sort of bulkhead fitting ......... with 1/4"

Only updates I have are is my temps have been as low as 40 and not yet stalling. She wants to - but hasn't quite yet.So the injectors appear to have a small % play in this also - at least for me - but obviously most of the LOAD is comming from something else/TC. One thing I have noticed - is on the cold/near stall days ................ I get a big puff of white smoke out the back - almost like she's dumping a large amount of fuel .............. I'm not sure if this is just normal for colder temps ............. but doesn't seem to happen when its a bit warmer. Not really anything else to add - will put my RV275's back in around a month ........ expect the stalling to be more frequent then.

hey man - no problem - will add a few more along the way - hope to get done this weekend. I bought this one 2nd hand of CF. Is a 2nd Stage snow performance kit. Seemed that everyone liked snow and devilsown for quality ..... and AEM/coolingmist for price. Maybe devilsown seemed to get the overall win. will let you know how it feels - supposedly if tuned ok on a 30-50% methanol mix can get an extra 40-70 HP and lower egt's.

ok. Gong to start a thread on my methanol injection setup. Here's some videos to get started. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WPOlcSvxe8 --- Update to the previous post... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=zl6eZpObuS8 --- Update to the previous post... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8LbINgf8XI --- Update to the previous post... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=9sw-xqxjwcY So as per video - heres a couple wiring questions 1) Would tapping into the 20A lighter fuse be a good place for my switched ignition source 2) I have 2 grounds for this setup. 1 for pump and 1 for controller. Whats the bet way to ground these -> just same as my tranny cooler and ground it to the frame somewhere ? 3) I want to get an LED low-fluid light to run off my existing low fluid sensor in the windshield reservoir. Assume I can just buy a 12v LED light and run to cab - but then how to share the switch ? Just splice it ?

No worries - glad it helped. Will pm you address.Find out anything with regard to your DDP's and pop pressure etc ? Were gonna need a video of that truck pulling down houses or sleds sometime soon !

Not sure about the 1st 2code -> but the 2nd two can definately come from being in limp mode. Meaning you startingf off in like 3rd gear. That would also cause your tranny temps to soar !! I think there are 4 ways to adjust it/fix it (1) TV is one way (but as I understand it its more to do with shift points) ....... (2) another is a turn screw for line pressure in the Valve Body. You can adjust the line pressure up or down. (3) a new governor solenoid - intnerla issues with solenoid and handling better line pressure (4) Voltage Resistor to fool signal of too high line pressure With regard to (1) See. http://www.atsdiesel.com/additionalinfo/3092164/TV%20Cable%20Adjustment%20v1.0.pdf (2) See cumminsforum. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/186150-47re-line-pressure-gov-pressure-issues.html (3) See http://www.suncoastconverters.com/dodge/dodge_products.html and search under components and then "618RE Governor Pressure Conversion Upgrade Kit" Part No. 618-GK or http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/48RE-47RE-46RE-Transmission-Parts-Governor-Solenoid-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53da66ddcfQQitemZ360146460111QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories (4)See various forums - probably last step - but cheapest in terms of parts. As always - wait for W+F to correct any of the above --- Update to the previous post... oh .... and you might want to read this from our OWN edcasey http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/167007-code-p0753-repaired-long.html

hahaha --> well I was going to say send that inifo to Russ but see he just ordered :P thx for the info as always !! Now go take a nap

Funny - those figures are almost exactly the same as mine before I added my juice. Now ...... +1mpg towing (11-13mpg) ........ +1mpg city (15mpg-17mpg) ....... +3mpg highway (20-21mpg). When I add my RV275's back in {probbaly live with the stalling for now} ....... I expect around +1mpg extra to each of those figures. Yeah kinda agree on this one. Interesting about the winddrag factor above 55mph (is that figure right mike ?) and the vp44 retartment with rpm. But I hit 20mpg on 65mph cruise control every time. I don't think I am going to see 24mpg running her at 55 mph .....

Speak with ISX. He helicoiled my tranny to keep a good seal on the pan as the fluid was always leaking due to stripped threads. You can buy the kit online and do it yourself - much cheaper and then you have for future issues. Kinda like tapping your exhaust manifold with appropriate NPT etc. Its NEAT. If you need a new #2 rocker - not sure if joe (JLWelding) has a spare one with his new/old head setup.

Yeah - well confirming its IS 'crap' and it goes back to lowes tomorrow !!! couldn't even warm my coffee pot or inflate my mattress --- Update to the previous post... gonna get this http://www.lowes.com/pd_106885-87012-40026_4294857298+5003701_4294937087_?productId=3218343&Ns=p_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl_200%2B400_4294857298%2B5003701_4294937087_%3FNs%3Dp_product_prd_lis_ord_nbr%7C0%7C%7Cp_product_quantity_sold%7C1 this brand seems to get decent reviews - and at least it will have the power I need when I need it now just to find a cheap decent compressor

yup ...... at least get yourself this http://compare.ebay.com/like/260112093302?ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&rvr_id=164799034312&crlp=1_263602_304662&UA=M*F%3F&GUID=057c281112c0a02652a4d1e4ffd5d984&itemid=260112093302&ff4=263602_304662

I saw only 0.5-1.0 mpg increase. I didn't do a LOT of testing with them before I pulled them for another issue - but it was a pretty consistent test going home and back on a 4 hour trip.

Yeah - unfortunately NAPA was closed at 8.30pm ................. so was a drama finding anything else at autozone got the pipe ok in the end - just the compression fitting (1/8) and polyon was a pain

Thx bro man - what a pain Managed to get 3/4->1/2->1/8 But then no 1/8th compression at lowes or HD So went to autozone - they didn;t have 1/8h compression or Air Brake line (1/8") Polyon So ended up with some 1/8th (or smaller:rolleyes:) sunpro compression+nylon tubing kit for $6 I found on rack after guys said they had nothing ........ will have to do ....... should be ok as I am only doing 30 psi. --- Update to the previous post... http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Sunpro-Nylon-tubing-kit/_/N-25lk?counter=0&filterByKeyWord=CP7554&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=477679_0_0_

Does this come s 1piece ..... 3/4 -> 1/8 th is quite a step down .... couldn't find it at home depot ??

That looks awesome - but only ones I have seen look like they are $600-$800 second hand on ebay ??

call me 660-973-2351I have some rv275's that have less than 1000 miles on themYou can borrow them as long as I get them back !!! *joke* Going to reinstall in a month or so .......... but should tie you over - how long u need ?

Hye guys Looking for something I can have in my truck that will do the following things 1) Inflate truck or RV tires if I have a flat or low pressure 2) Be able to support tools for camping - eg kettle/light 3) Be able to jump start truck if batteries dead. This is best I have found. Most are crap. Is there anything you guys would recommend better ? http://www.walmart.com/catalog/allReviews.do?product_id=13035281 Biggest issue seems to be how long it will hold charge if you use it with devices - only a couple of hours ....... plus having to start/stop on aircompressor as its not big enough

Yes - I have taken my RV275's out and have a stock SO vp44. Only stalls under COLDER temperatures though - less than 50. This issue "sounds" slightly different ...... given it stalls after you have been up and running ...... had your alternator checked ?

All i know is the West Coast boys surely did represent !!!! HAHAHHAAHA and ISX balied like a kid stuck with his cookie in the jar ........yes - I worded that correctly !!!

Then just follow ISX original list [*]Monitoring Devices (EGT, Boost, tranny temp etc.) [*]More Flow/Air (BHAF, Straight Pipe) [*]Build Up the Powertrain (Better Clutch/Built Auto) VERY IMPORTANT BEFORE STEP 4+5 [*]Add Fuel (Programmers,chips, etc) [*]Add HX or bigger turbo if going an further than 350hp

yeah - but my $220 is feeling lighter than a compound at $1500+ proof will be in the pudding as they say ......... still curious about the head studs ..... any1 .......

Around 4-28 daily driving (28 when I stomp on it) generally 4-14 Around 14-28 when towing. I am buying it to lower EGT's whilst towing, so I can then run my juice on levels 3-5 towing. Can't right now as I max out my EGT's on level 2. I didn't go with the HX as this gives me the added option of adding stronger methanol for "fun". I will configure low end to start at @16PSI and to be full @25 PSI - start from there. Going to start in winshield resevoir - but pretty sure I'll end up in back of truck with bigger tank. Not doing check valve at this stage as install instructions say only required if you have tank in back of truck - with fluid higher than the injectors (gravity feed)

Ok - but doesn';t increases fuel do the same thing (Bigger injectors ) ?? So what I thought was basically need head studs once you approach the 450+ HP mark........ doesn;t really matter if thats from fuel or from MWI ?? So - I bought one of these - and just had it all out working last weekend - now just need to get it hooked up. I am mainly using it for EGT reduction. So mainly water or 30% methanol. The guys say this will result in 20-50 RWHP gains. If I go higher than 30% then more. So if I am 230 Stock + 120 EDGE + 20 (other) .... then at 370 HP which is more like 320 RWHP due to inifficiencies ini driveline ?? So either way - 320+50 = 370 HP (methanol) and 370+20 (water) = 390 HP So are studs really required ??? Now if I had 200 HP injectors - maybe a different story just asking