mopar440cu

I paid $56, which isn’t bad.

Well thank God I followed my instincts and ordered a couple of different oil return lines from different places. I received 1 today from, believe it or not they had it, a Cummins dealer in Tampa. It was only a couple dollars more. The other ones that I order CPP dropped the ball and never shipped them until Thursday/Friday and I ordered them early enough to get shipped here for the weekend. This just gets my blood boiling when they delay shipping on there end or don’t deculge they just don’t have the part in stock. Anyways, glad this one came in, but the gaskets don’t come in until Monday. I don’t know if I can reuse the recently used one or not is why I ordered more.

Oh yes Overson’s, when the father actually owned it. I had his original designed 2 1/2 ton inners on the rear of the Dodge and the sons annihilator axles front and rear on my Jeep. If I remember it was 47 spline. I could smoke my 57” R2’s on asphalt, which didn’t help the cleets on the tires nor the locker. Lol Sold that D300 and kept the 540 wedge motor for a dart project.

It depends if we work locally, out of state or three county’s over.

No not really. I had one like that, but got fired. Trust me when I say the other ones riding will rat out the driver quickly to earn brownie points. Those are transmissions that are built supposedly and should of lasted on average more than 1-2 years. Not all had any power boxes of any kind either. My personal truck also never lasted more than 3 1/2 years and they were built by reputable shops here. Like I say it’s hard to find someone that won’t screw you on a transmission here. I only found one in the history of owning all Dodges. He actually did a great job and that truck is still going strong. He just retired unfortunately. My next one will go to Jon.

Yes, I like it. Gave me a lot more pick up passing on the highways pulling loaded. Love the new growl it has. I still have to fix the actuator rod touching the oil drain pipe though. I had someone recommend the Cummins #3934085 flexible drain pipe. So, I ordered it to try. I have a couple questions though. 1. It seems to smoke a little on take off and passing, like my old stack with TST/Smarty. I think I will have to play with the Quad and figure that out. 2. Also, what are you running EGT wise while cruising doing about 75MPH? What is your EGT's getting on it pulling on a take off? Thanks!

I 100% agree!

I will post up what my opinion is later today after work. I honestly could not get WOT yesterday due to the sheriff on the only straight near my home. Plus I did not have it hooked up to one of the company trailers and didn’t have my phone on me to monitor EGT’s. Again thanks to everyone’s help! That’s a good idea. How did you bend it? On or off the turbo? Did you put heat to it or just man handle it with a BFH? Lol Thanks!!!

It’s the only way to get the truck for use tomorrow. I’m going to replace it. That pick was before I shortened the tube more. It’s a little better, but needs to be fixed

Well it’s all together after another small cut of the metal tube. No leaks, but what a pain to get to the back bolt! Took it for a quick ride just to make sure there is no leaks and to test it, but wouldn’t you know a dam sheriff was clocking on my long dirt rode. Anyways, there was no leaks. ttreed, if I am reading your post correctly you are saying make sure the middle pipe is going down hill like a septic line, correct? I am going to order a different line for it, maybe the flexible one. What do you say about that or should I get a different set up with a AN/ push in O-ring set up? thanks!

This is what I am trying now. Lol Hopefully it will do until I can get a flexible one.

I cut mine in the middle, but it still barely touching the rod. I hate to have the actuator not to work. Did you have clearance? Thanks you!

Yes, oil drain/return line. Tomayto, tomahto, its the same to me, but I am learning. LOL Did you have to buy another oil drain line when installing yours or modify yours? I just found they sell a kit and adapters to fit the S300 to the second gens. Thanks!

Well I replaced both lines in question with the heater hose, but still have yet another problem. The oil return line won’t work with the bends in it. I am running out of day light, but thinking if I could cut a piece out and splice in another 3/4” hose that would solve a little of the problem. However the adjustable rod is still real tight and might hit. Lord it’s been a domino effect. I’m not even mentioning the downpipe problem. Nope, it’s the same on the rest of my trucks that have the ATS and the lines are ran the same way on the other 3500’s I have, that are stock. I remembered it was hitting when we installed it them originally. I got that problem solved though. Thanks for sharing I appreciate any advise as always!!

Very nice Motor!! That being said, I will try that as soon as it stops raining here. Its under one of my pole barns, but the dang wind is whipping the rain side ways. Lovely Florida weather, its either Hotter than the gate hinges of Hell or its raining and hot. LOL

Just thought I would share side by side comparison of the turbos.

Thanks Mike!! I attached a photo side by side comparison of the turbo's. As for the heater exchange lines they were unbolted and bolted to test for fit. Nope did not help. I still think I could just simply change out the lines to 5/8" heater hose rubber ones and reroute it away from the manifold?? Its worth a shot. I think I saw someone do it somewhere on another site, but not sure. I read so much stuff and on different sites its hard to remember where you saw articles. LOL There is always a way to skin a cat, as they say.

No, the blanket can move out of the way with no issue. Its the line itself hitting the manifold and turbo. When I originally installed the 3 piece years ago it was always a tight fit. Now its worse with the bigger turbo. Its hard to get a good shot due to its down pouring with wind and took a couple quick pics not to get water in anything. Really?? I thought it was just my luck. LOL Do you have a aftermarket exhaust manifold? My other trucks that have stock ones dont touch. Its worse with the new turbo, that's why I was considering moving the line or simply putting 5/8" heater hose on instead.

This is why I am asking. The new turbo wont bolt down all the way due to the transmission cooling line I am pointing to. The metal tubing is lodged between it and the exhaust manifold and it will not bend. Can I simply cut the metal tube at the front of the motor and at the back where it goes into the cooler and add a hose in between the cuts to give more play. This way I can move it away from the exhaust manifold also, which I think would be a good idea. What do you all think?

If you have the heavy valve extensions on the rear, if its a dual tire axle, take them off. I just did this on one of mine and it solved the vibration issue in the rear.

Have any of you changed your metal heater exchange coolant lines that run under the exhaust manifold to make more room for the 3 piece exhaust manifold? See attached pic of where I am pointing to. The piping is really tight and close to it. I can only adjust it a little and the new turbo blanket will help with the heat to them. I was thinking of changing them somehow and was wondering if anyone has done this mod? Thanks!!

Thank you for your help!

I actually found a diesel shop a few towns over opened this holiday weekend and believe it or not they had one. Thank God!! It just got so dark I didn’t have time to finish it. Tomorrow is another day. Thanks for all your help!!

Thanks! What is ORB please?

Thank you! I will send the wife out and see if they have something. I really appreciate the help!!!