mopar440cu

Well I got to install the manifold blanket.

OK, I ran into a snag installing the new turbo. The oil inlet fitting is not the same as the original one. The brass fitting they sent has a male going into the turbo with a female end. The original one that I need is a male to male coupler. Did any of you run into this? What did you do? I found one on line, but thats not going to get the truck running by Sunday for work. Bummer!!! Man this stinks they told me everything was included ready to bolt on. Now I have to put everything back on if I can not find one locally, which I doubt being Memorial Day weekend.

Is there a fitting on the cover?

It’s very nice and let me get my axle back where it should be. Rides much better.

No,thank you I have it and tried them already. I also wrote them, but figured it would be quicker simply asking someone here, which it was, and I am great full!

Should I just leave it alone for now and just tighten it up you think?

Ok, I got the 2009-2010 steering linkage on the 01 3500, but there had to be a slight modification. I had to cut 1/4" off each side of the drag link where they thread into the adjustment sleeve in order to adjust the steering wheel. I just did it on my band saw, but I am sure it can be done with a grinder and a cut off wheel with a steady hand. It threaded right back into the adjustment sleeve like it was meant to be. LOL Other than that the tie rods went right in with no problems. I also replaced the track bar with a 3rd Gen SSI bracket and SSI adjustable track bar because of the leveling kit installed. I have not installed a steering dampener yet and don't think I will because it doesn't need it. I tried it on rough country roads and it was fine at all speeds. Now my impression on this purchase, I have to say it was well worth it. This 3500 has never steered better. I had the Lukes Links on it and got tired of adjusting them. If I had to do it again I would just get this kit, but that's my opinion.

Wow, that was quick. Thank you!! -The rod with the bolt on it, what is the loose nut for and should it be tightened somewhere on it? -So, the boost sensor port does not need a cover you think? - I too am curious about the numbers? If you find something do tell please. Again thank you for your help!!

Going to tackle this Saturday, but have a couple questions maybe one of you can enlighten me on. I am supplying pics for my question and no, the turbo installation procedures don't say what to do with them. Lol What are these two bolts for? I have four bolts holding the stock one, maybe replacing two? What is this brass fitting for? This must be the oiler line? What is this port for? I have a "J" hook on my stock turbo. Do I need to install it here some how? This hose I have in my hand go to these two fittings on the turbo correct?? Out of curiosity, What is the numbers for you think?

I exploded a bunch of them on my 2 1/2 ton axles with tractor tires under my Jeep and Dodge D300. I just hated when they get lodged in the chunk and snap a axle or both. LOL You are right about glad its not the transmission!

I had a Ford with a bad pinion bearing do the same shake. Check that.

This morning my Quad started acting up a bit and I am confused on what to do. While in transit to a the jobsite the transmission gauge on the screen of my phone was going jumping all around on readings. It would go to 185-195 down to 0 back up to 160 then to 10. It was all over the place. I checked the wire to the transmission, which was good and nothing near hot sources. The other issue was I have the turbo cool down set for 180 and its been working great until this morning. Now it does not work at all. It shows its "ON" when I look at the settings. I am confused on that one also?? Any suggestions on what to do?? Thanks, Steve

IMG_1615.MOV OK,I checked the theory of possibly being the Map Sensor and to my surprise it cured it, knock on wood!!!

I was thinking out loud to myself, I said “self what about maybe it could be the map sensor!” Lol What do you guys think? E6FF6485-D097-498E-8FE8-3DFB9BBE1344.MOV

Oops, I forgot to add it was from AutoZone and they double checked to see if it was indeed a Wells. They told me they just repack it in a different box, which is no different than what my aluminum supplier does and other auto distributors do. It looks just like the one from the Wells videos also. OK, here is the new dilemma on this one. I changed out the oil sender to this new one and still had the oil pressure dropping to zero then going back up. I decided changed that one out for another oil sender, that is good on another 3500, and that didn't do any good. It did the same thing. So, I started to test wires on the oil sender plug. From what I am reading off this site from the wiring diagram I know there is one for ground and one for 5 volt supply and one for return. The ground tested fine. The 5 volt orange colored, if I remember, had weird findings. When I first tested it I got 1.91v at the plug only. I know from the wiring diagram that this wire goes from the oil sender gets spliced to the Map sensor then to ECM on the motor. I then checked the Map plug for 5 volts and only got 4.96v. I had to move the truck to my poll barn due to rain, forgot to plug the map sensor in and the oil sender worked like it use to. Here is the part I am confused, when I plugged the sender back in it stopped working properly and was erratic again?? Does this mean the PCM is bad?? I have a temporary mechanical gauge in it until I get my gauge in and the pressure is good, but I need to fix the dash one. Any help or thoughts would be appreciated! I was thinking maybe if I find a true 5v ignition activated source and wire it to the sender maybe that might help? Thanks, Steve

NO, Had to work on another one this weekend.LOL Always something.

I didnt even think of that! Thanks for reminding me!!

Will a 3rd Gen steering gearbox bolt up to a 2nd Gen frame and will the lines be the same? I have a chance to buy one and was thinking of swapping mine out. Thanks!!!

My vote is talk to Jon at Dynamic also. He is full of knowledge on diesel transmissions and very reasonable. Heck he rebuilt a 47RE VB for me and I and the crew really enjoy it. I know the next time another one goes out its going to be shipped to him, unless I can find a wrecked truck with a 5 or 6 speed manual to convert my personal one over to. I am glad you found some one you can trust in our state. I have bought a total of 12 transmission for 5 3500's since 03-2018 from different shops from Suncoast to local friends shops. They all never held up on average more than 2-3 years, rough guessing, and my company only hauls 16' average trailers with aluminum products on it.

Wife sent me a pic of what was delivered, awesome!!

No it’s a Wells Oops, I forgot to add it was from AutoZone and they double checked to see if it was indeed a Wells. They told me they just repack it in a different box, which is no different than what my aluminum supplier does and other auto distributors do. It looks just like the one from the Wells videos also.

Yeah thats what I thought, but its weird thanks!! I swapped the new one to the donor truck and the readings were the same on it as the original one?? Strange! I am going to install mechanical oil gauges in the rest of them.

Sure wish you would of chimed in earlier with info, might of got one from you. I did not know you were on this site, partially my fault for not seeing the vendors list.

Ok, after installing it I noticed that the pressure is a slight lower at idle and at WOT. So, I decided not to panic and swap out a stock one from another 3500 and to my surprise its reading better pressure. I understand they are not exactly the greatest for pressure reading like a mechanical , but do you guys think the difference is because of the size of the opening in the sender itsef compared to the stock size? I hooked up a mechanical gauge that I had to recheck pressure at the filter and the readings are good.

Dang it forgot to ask, what torque wrench do you recommend ? I have a new Tekon I used on my AMC360 rebuild which I had no problem to this day and its been a couple years. Awesome!! Do you have any recommendations on studs, maybe ARP? Also whats a good torque wrench to do this with? I have a Tekon, but don't want to mess this up.