mopar440cu

Thanks again!!! Were would be a good place to get the down pipe?

OK, I am looking at a Borg s362sxe right now, but I am still a little confused on what they are asking. They want me to choose a turbine housing, but there is a lot to choose from and stuff I don't understand maybe you all can help. I know the 2nd Gens have the T3 mounting flange and I also understand I have a ATS 3 piece exhaust manifold, which is a divided housing. I am guessing is better because it expels gases better than the single, but what is meant by "open 3" V band ?" I am also confused on compression disharge. There are only 3 to choose from, but what are they basically? I understand on a basic like for example a HX35 is a 54/69/14. 54mm stands for the inducer compression wheel. 69mm stands for the inducer turbine wheel. 14cm is the exhaust housing.

Wow cool. So, do you think I could get away with not tapping the IP with my 110 injectors and just the HY35 for now until I get a better turbo?

Are you saying you are running without the tappped wire that goes to the VP44 from the adrenaline? I didnt know you could run it like that?

My suggestion, as I done this many times is, buy a Harbor Frieght 10 ton Super Heavy Duty Portable Hydraulic Equipment Kit #60406. You can alao buy a good transmission jack that helps out a lot also there. The Hydraulic spreader helps spread the frame apart just enough to get the crossmemeber out that supports the transmission. This really helped out! Beats beating the thing off by far.

What exactly is thes362 68? Is it like 63/67/12 for example? Do you know a good place to get one? Thanks! I am ordering the adrenaline with the v2 today to get rid of the tst smarty stack. I know I can sell this stuff to help out the cost. Next is still the turbo. I really appreciate all the responses!!

This turbo I have the HX35W not a HX35 is there a difference maybe? I had it on the same style truck with the same set up as the other one and it had higher egt's is why I took it off. Do you think its because of the TST/Smarty with 110 injectors? Maybe if I just get a Adrenaline and first try it with the HY than the HX to see the difference? I am just guessing. So basically you cant have the best of both worlds your saying, of course until I have twins. LOL You either have to have a smaller housing for quicker spool w/ higher EGT's or a larger one that gets laggy and lower EGT's at top end.

I have 4 01's and had issues with them all and cant really remember the codes on that one. Sorry, but the new ECM stopped it.

Ok, Industrial Injection just wrote me back "Sorry, I should Clarify. Our Viper model is the 68mm turbine wheel, the 70 in model number refers to the A/R of the Housing. The .70 A/R turbine housing is the same as the 12cm. It is just a different way to measure the housing. Sorry for the Confusion."

I will run out and check my collection. lol I have 2 HY35 and 1 HX35W. I had the HX35W on the other 01 with the same mods and took it off because the EGT's were really high, like hit 1300 easily and above. It was a really laggy turbo too!

I have another turbo off another 01, but it only has numbers on it. How can I tell if its a hy or hx?

The guy who has it at the job now says its a hy35 turbo and yes its an auto. I only own autos because no one knows how to shift, except me. LOL As for psi its hit 40 at one point with me flooring it, but very high EGT's.

I appreciate that!! It sounds like the best bet would be the Adrenaline?

LOL you say its easier, but it seems everything I done on all my Dodges was not easy and expensive. Can a average Joe tune a 01 diesel with Adren?

So correct me if I am wrong. Once I purchase one of these I have to have a tune custom made, like the rest of my friends have on their 3rd gens by someone?

Cool explains alot. Thank you! So I am going to look up both Smarty UDC and the Adrenaline on line.

I just sent an email to them to make double sure that they did not misprint the 63/70/12 viper. I will post what they say. What brand or made your 62/68/12? I am looking for one that can also be added to twins later in the future. Make sense, but why do they tell people its good with bigger sticks?? LOL So, would you suggest a different box? If thats the case which one? Thanks!!

I wrote to Industrial and they recommended the Viper 63/70/12, which would help me gain more power and lower EGT's. I was looking for people that might be running one to ask thier opinion's. I also like the Boxer turbo they have also, but are still looking for info and opinions.

Its a stock HX35 I think on that one. Its not here at this moment to check, but I am sure it is The boost now goes up to 35-40 range. As for the stack I have the Smarty always on level 2 for low end torque and the TST set at 2 for upper end. I tried all combos, like disconnecting one then another to see which is better for towing. This is the right ticket for it with the 4:30 gearing. I also played with levels and still this is where it should be. With it on level 3 it gets a little too hot for me. I mean not extremely hot, but in the range under 1800 EGT's with a heavier load. I am just wanting the lag out of it and everyone is telling me the stock turbo is not enough with these 110 sticks. I know I could get twins, but not at this time. SO, its got to be a single turbo that would help with lag, a little lower EGT's and accompany a future twin setup. Make sense?

Let me approach this subject a different way. I am looking for a different turbo for one of my 01 3500's and would like to know if there is any math or formula to help you make this choice? I know you have to try to match the air to fuel ratio, but thats it. I have BD's 110 injectors in this particular 3500 with a stock turbo and she always has a 16' company trailer attached to it with aluminum extrusion and ladders on it. I am just wanting a little more lower and a little lower EGT's without changing injectors of course. My other mods on the truck are basically the same for this one that is in my Sig below. If you need ,more info let me know and I will gladly post it. Thanks for any input! Steve

I had the same issues with one of my companies 01 3500. I tried replacing everything from the ECT to all the other sensors and checking all grounds, the alternator and still nothing. So, I swapped out ECM's from another 01 3500 I have and it cured the issues. I hope this helps!

Good evening guys! I was wondering if any of you run a a Industial Injection Viper 63/70 turbo w/ 12cm housing? I am thinking of upgrading one of my 01 3500's with it and was looking on opinions and usage reviews. I would only be using it for towing. Thanks!!

Ok, if it is the NSS the switch is an open and closed circuit I assume. "The switch connector has three terminals and wires. The White wire is a power wire from the #3 (Back-up light) fuse. The Violet/Black wire is the output to the back-up lights and is hot when the switch is closed. (in reverse) The Brown/Yellow wire is the ground circuit from the Starter Relay. When the switch/circuit is open there is no ground for the relay, hence, no start. When the switch is closed (in park or neutral) the circuit & relay is grounded thru the switch - to the trans. case." -JDancoe, posted in the TDR. My question to you is if the relay has no ground to start does this mean it wont crank over or does it mean it will crank but wont start? Mine cranks, but wont fire up.

Ok, update. I used the remote FOB and disarmed it and she still didn't start up. I also unlocked the door twice with the key, another site suggest this, and it also did not start. The only way it starts is I have to unplug the ground wire connector that goes to the C1 near the passenger battery or disconnect the C1 wire. This is driving me nutz!!

AAARRGGGHH! went out to try to start it after I replaced the batteries in the remote, heard it unlock the door to disarm and the dang batteries are down it wont start. I just had them charged! I put both batteries on a charge, they are not that old.