mopar440cu

Ok I found the one that came with the truck when I bought it from the stealership. Its different from my other 01. I loaded some pics for you. I sent the wife out for a new battery, this one is dead, and I will let you know if that solved the problem unarming it. My other 01 does not have the blinking red light on the steering column. It use to blink a while back, now it doesn't do anything. Do you think that its aftermarket the stealership had put on? Just out of curiosity. In the wiring diagram I am confused on the C1 connecter still . What does CKPEng stand for and where does it go? Also the Fused B+ on the same connector where does it go. The diagram does not show . Does that mean they go to the ECM possibly?

I have a key fob for the truck when it was new, but cant find it. I believe its the same as my red 01 and just locks the doors and such. We never use them, just the keys. How would I check or disarm it? Could I pull a fuse? Thanks!!!

Thanks for that one I did not see that one! Actually I made a mistake in the original post and it is the C1 not the C3 connector. I just cant figure out how to change it. LOL Sorry about that. This truck is absolutely driving me crazy! I am thinking still it is a short going from the C1 to where ever the wires are connected to or a splice thats in line. I just cant figure out which one yet.I really appreciate the help this thing has been down since October.

Yes I have and are still stumped is why I am asking!

Ok, I had some time today to work on the truck. I placed a new PCM on it and no change she would not start. The only way she will start is if I disconnect the C! from the PCM or I disconnect the ground coming from the battery. I am stumped still. I am thinking it is being shorted somewhere in the C1 wiring still. Maybe there is a VP cut off switch that is triggered when there is a short maybe coming from the C1?? I was thinking also maybe a crankshaft sensor could possibly do it. What are your feelings on it?

Thats really good!! Was it a total rebuild including the torque converter?

Nice! What was the cost?

I already pulled the tranny lines and cooler to replace. The only thing remaining is the heater exchange on the motor. This is why I wanted the info on the cleaning procedure for only it. Hopefully this makes sense. Lol

Can you enlighten me here or privately please.

I wonder if it will screw on to those fittings? Do you know which fitting I should flow it through by chance? Thanks for the response!!

Thank you guys, I think I will!

Does anyone know how to flush out the heater exchange? I have pulled out all the tranny lines so I could replace them with the cooler, but cant find out any info on how to flush the heater exchange. I know it has a check valve, but thats it. LOL Thanks again fro the help!! /

Here is some pics of my flex plate that seems to have the bolt holes wallerd out a little at the toque converter and the crank. lol.I placed a torque converter bolt in one hole to show what I mean. Hopefully yall can see it.

I know there is a lot of different opinions on the internet on purchasing a billet input shaft, but I have not seen a lot posted here. What do you guys think of purchasing a billet input shaft? I am rebuilding my 47RE with a triple disc converter and a towing shift kit and were wondering if I should get a billet input for it. I am purchasing a billet flex plate also for it. My sole purpose for this 3500 4x4 is towing a 16' trailer with aluminum ladders and aluminum screen enclosures on it for mu Construction Company, which really isn't a lot for the 3500 towing capabilities. I just don't know if the shaft is needed? No I don't hot rod the truck, because its one of my companies trucks. LOL , I do have power programmers on, but they are set on level 2 on one and zero on the other. Let me know your opinions I value them. Thanks!!

Thank you everyone for the responses! I have to ask a question about your sig. What do you mean by XZT and DS5? I cant think of it, but I haven't had enough coffee yet! LOL

Thank you guys! Great clip! I guess billet is the way to go then.

I am looking for a flex plate for my 2001 5.9 diesel 4x4 with a 47RE transmission. I really dont see the need for a billet one and are having a hard time finding a non billet one. The only one I can track down is the one on MTS website. The F2-5.9 for $195. What do yall think of this thing? Do you know of any other non billet ones? 3 Times Thicker than OEM SFI Rated Flexplate Designed to handle extreme duty applications Designed to take the punishment of high horepower engines 4mm thick centerplate Ring gears are precision robotic welded with cold welding process

I have a 2001 Dodge 3500 and this thing has got a few issues. My lights are flickering at idle and the truck is running rough. Also my gauges the volts and temp gauge will go to zero then come back either by shutting the truck off or just driving it and coming back up mysteriously?? I have done the external voltage regulator swap and it help for a couple days, but then starting acting up. I know its not a ground issue because I have checked and rechecked them. The batteries are brand new as well a the alternator and they were both checked again to be sure. What do you guys think? Maybe the PCM crapping out? The only codes on the truck that I had was PCU 1594/1693 and ECU 0177/1693. The ECU one I think was because when I washed the dang thing the circuit that is hanging from the old fuel pump got wet. Oh and the IP pump is a new rebuilt one also and I checked for wires being shorted and nothing. Well let me know what ya think. Thanks for your time!! Steve

I too tried that. I replaced both VSS with the suggestion from Blue Chip with one in the transmission and the other in the rear axle housing and still nothing. I am now trying to trace some wires with an multi meter set on OHM's. I just ordered a Power Probe EST3000 to help me trace a possible broken or shorted wire. Everyone recommended it so, I will give it a shot and let y'all know how it is. Thank for the thought!!!

I have got a weird problem maybe one of you can chime in with a answer on my predicament. I have a 2001 3500 5.9 with a starting issue. I already replaced the IP and got it started with the help of Doug from Blue Chip following his directions. However, it will only run with the C3 wiring connector unplugged from the PCM?? It has np power and the odometer reads NO BUSS due to the C3 plug unplugged. I am trying to trace the wires from the PCM in the C3 wiring and have not found anything yet. How would I know if a wire is bad on one of these wires? Also could it be something else? Any suggestions would be appreciated!! Thanks! Steve

Thanks! So it is the PCM, thanks for clarifying that. It rarely gets cold here, probably out of the winter months maybe a couple days in the thirties. The rest in the sixties. Now the other months out gets sickening hot. As for the batteries I replace them about every two to three years due to the heat and alot of driving. Lol I would think being a work truck with the external it should be fine then.

I know for a fact the internal voltage regulator is going in my 2001 with all my tests and new parts. Yes, the alternator is new,both batteries and the wires are good, as well as the grounds. I know the regulator is internal in the computer and are contemplating on doing a external modification to solve it, but are unsure. Has anybody done this mod to their truck and have any bad effects? I am looking at the kit at Alternatoparts..com and it looks pretty simple. The part number is ERCKFRM. I am thinking that this is why my automatic has been acting up. It all of a sudden started to stutter. I am sure the signal/voltage between the PCM and APPS is being effected somehow. Just thinking out loud. Maybe I might be wrong and someone would tell me. Thanks for any info!! Steve

I have been looking for two days for a 2001 3500 fuel lever sending unit module without the fuel pump in it but, I can not find one. Anybody know where I can get one?? I have an Airdog 165 with a fuel module upgrade kit on it and one of the return lines is cracked sucking air :banghead: . My fuel pressure gauge is jumping from 16 to 19 erratically . I don't think installing a Vulcan draw straw would help me because, I still need to have that port for a return maybe? I am not sure. The Vulcan has three ports on it maybe I can some how plug the broke one off if I don't have to use it. Anybody know? Thanks for any suggestions

Hey Michael, question where did you tie the needle valve in to the airdog system? I have an electrical Isspro fuel gauge and need to install a needle valve and stumbled on this old post. I appreciate the info.