notlimah

Are there any solid alternatives to the stock headlight option? I just checked with my local shop and they want 100 bucks a pop for a whole new housing!! The reason I'm going that route is because I have condensation built up in my headlight housing currently, and I don't think sanding/clear will help in that situation.

That's good to hear! I'm looking to go this route, I'd rather not blow out my trans so I'm hoping this is a happy medium of more power vs stock trans!

From my research on this matter, I THINK the EZ does not do boost fooling as it only does timing. Although I'm hoping I'm wrong since I'm looking to go this route as well!

That's the best price I've seen! Let us know what you think once you get it all setup!

Nice to hear that you're getting some miles out of the Raptor! I'd like to have a standby pump laying around but I have yet to find a place where they grow on trees! lol

Initially I did just fire it up and adjust the pressure because it was sitting around 10psi at idle. After driving it a bit I did see it come up a little so I re adjusted. I've probably played with the setting 2-3 times now. I think I found my sweet spot so I'm going to stick with where it's at now. Glad I'm not the only one with noise! I figure as long as pressures steady there's not much to worry about! What raptor pump are you running?

So I got my pressure adjusted to where I wanted it but it took a lot more adjustment off the screw then I thought it would. Weird! Anyways, pressures holding steady now hot or cold so that's good. I have noticed that the raptor is a bit loud when you turn the key for your wait to start. I hear it prime, doesn't nexcesarrily sound bad, I just didn't remember it sounding that loud when it was priming. Is yours loud at all?

How do you check the AC noise output? I'd be interested to see where mine is at as I'm still running a stock VP and just hit 170k! I want to keep this baby going as long as I can!

I think I was seeing a difference between warm and cold because I was running on a bad thermostat. Now that it's fixed I'm seeing the same numbers warm or cold. Adjusting my lift pump is really sensitive! Just over an 1/8th of a turn is about 1psi!

I'm in the same boat as you! Except I thought I was supposed to be doing this at work!

I was definitely JUST turning it. Now that I look back through those instructions, it's completely obvious in that 5th pic that it gets a 1/2 turn and then PULLED OUT! Jeeeeez! Thanks guys!

On a different note, I'm curious on the best way to adjust the fuel pressure. Should the truck be fully warmed up and then adjusted? It seems like the warmer the truck the higher the fuel psi, is that right? Can it be adjusted while the truck is running?

*UPDATE* I replaced my thermostat this morning. The gasket had practically melted, so needless to say, it wasn't easy getting it out of there. But I got it swapped out with the shiny new one from Napa. I took an extra long drive to work this morning and saw my temps rise to around 180ish so I think I'm good to go! In the process of all this, I was following directions from HERE and when I tired to drain my coolant from the drain hole as shown, I couldn't get anything to drain! I ended up having to remove the radiator hose from the thermostat housing and using an old milk carton to catch as much excess coolant as I could. After I had the housing off and old thermostat out I tried the radiator drain again and still nothing. Is this cause for concern?

I believe JIC fitting as its part of the big line kit but I always got those confused lol.

What is your technique for bleeding the line?

So I was double checking my fuel lines from the VP to the FF and LP for leaks since its a new install and found that it seems I have a TINY leak coming from the VP where the 90 degree hose attached is. I'm not sure if I just didn't get it tight enough or what. It was a SOB getting that thing there and tightened down! I feel I've cranked on it as much as I feel comfortable without breaking it.

I think I actually get pretty decent mileage! About 14-15 around town and just recently did a 1000 mile trip from central CA to northern WA and averaged about 22-23mpg. Granted that was off the trucks calculations but I've never felt my mpg's were sub par. I do have the Napa thermostat ready to go into the truck in the morning. I wanted to do it tonight but the coolant was too hot! All I have for coolant is some cheap-o 50/50 pre-mix though. I'll probabaly do a full system flush in the near future. I don't like mixing different things! Haha

As long as I can remember the temp has rarely shown over 165* on the gauge. Just recently it's occasionally started jumping up to maybe 175ish but usually only under harder acceleration up a decent hill, but then right back down. I'm going to swing by and pick up a new thermostat. I'm sure I'll loose some coolant in the swap. Does anyone recommend a certain type of coolant or does any ethylene glycol-based coolant work, especially for basically a top off?

Can someone explain what exactly you guys are meaning when you say 180/190 etc thermostat? Are we talking just the gauge itself in dash? I know my gauge RARELY if ever gets off the very bottom tic mark on the gauge itself. I think that makes it 165 degrees-ish and it takes quite a while for me to get heat in the cab. Although after putting in my amsoil air filter with no heat guard I've noticed it does warm up a little faster.

I was always under the impression that the mechanical pumps were a PITA to install. I think you guys got me thinking mechanical! Especially with the idea of being able to have a stocker as backup!

This is good stuff! I daily drive mine and my commute is about 7 miles one way, so on colder days it's practically impossible to get the temp gauge off the bottom peg. Sounds like this might be a good way to safely speed that up right?!

I have used the isolator without issue. I'm not sure there's much difference between going with or without it, pretty much boils down to preference I'd say!

Got it. Basically the switch lets you tell the ECM to do the 3/6 cyl idle, or, if left alone the updated ECM will do it on its own! I live in northern Washington and it usually doesn't get much colder then the 30's. Would I still see an advantage using this setup? Or would I be better off making sure my ECM is up to date and calling it good?

How hard is the swap from electronic to mechanical fuel pumps?

The ISSPRO gauges are so nice! I have the EV series and love them! Glad your enjoying them! Now if I can figure out why my boost gauge makes a weird noise any time it builds boost!