Vais01

Not so much. Might need to add a few zeros to that figure.

Okay what size tire are you running? Also I use an old racing trick. Take a construction crayon and make a broad 2 inch wide stripe across the tread from shoulder block to shoulder block. Then driving down a paved road in a straight line drive roughly 1/8th of a mile to 1/4 of a mile check the mark. If the center is worn away you are over inflated. Wear the outer edges you are under inflated. Now if you are set perfect it will wear even across the mark on the tire. Just another tip tire scrub on the front tire will be high if the tire pressure is set perfect. In my case I added 3 PSI. On my tires I run 67 PSI in the front and 60 PSI to 62 PSI in the rear.

That's the plan although I'd like to see how close it will be. Dealer can only flash what's on their Service Manual. Largest size listed is 275/75R70=32.2 or lowest revs per mile listed is 648 revs per mile. 285/70R17 is 638 revs per mile.

True. I just want to know what my speed actually is without some GPS APP on my cell phone.

You mind running the numbers I put up above from zero to 100? 265/70R17= Dia: 31.7= 99.58 Circumference = 660 revs per mile 275/75R17= Dia: 32.2 = 101.15 Circumference = 646 revs per mile 285/70R17= Dia: 32.8= 103.04 Circumference = 638 revs per mile Just concerned with the 265/70R17 vs 285/70R17 I'm more concerned with the speedometer than just the odometer. Although fixing both would be great.

650 HP It could happen but you will be on the edge of the VP44's fueling abilities. Hope your rod bearings are of the grey looking material otherwise long term your engine won't like you.

If I plan on driving in sub freezing areas I have another additive I would add to my fuel in addition to 2-stroke oil. As you said 2-stroke oil does nothing for cold flow but I do know it does not affect it much either.

Where did you find such a tire calculator? All the ones I've used give you some bogus revolution per mile. 265/70R17 lists about 660 revolution per mile and a 285/70R17 lists a 638 revolution per mile. Local dealership said they could program a 275/70R17 and they list a 650 revolutions per mile and the tire manufacturer lists a 646 so that's close to that size but not sure how far off that will put me.

Good to know. I'm trying to get within 2 percent of the speed on the speedometer. As of now I show 70 on the speedometer and I'm actually going 65.

I'm running 7x.009" SAC injectors and a 62/68/14 wastegated turbo. Which nets me around the 350 range as a daily driver. The Quadzilla has a custom tune for fuel efficiency with that set up that I wrote for my configuration. It has plenty of pep to it and good fuel economy so I'm happy. I'll be happier when the stone is out of my cab and the knock is gone. I see most of us try for balance. Where are you reading boost? Only 30 to 35 PSI on twins?

Shows 74 when your doing 70?

Haha doubt that. On a DVOM turn off your averager and see what you get. It's usually within a different scale. Try checking to see if the sensor is shorting through the main body. That sensor has a coil that measures tip gap (hall sensor). The other thing is look for any sharp turns on the wire. Too sharp a bend will equal broken strands and possibly loss of continuity.

I try to keep the 2 separated because too many confuse the two.

My thoughts exactly. I'm adding a boost elbow to stuff an extra 5 PSI of air in my truck to balance the fuel I have which is already a lot.

So guys I have a question for all of you who had 265/75R16 tires from the factory that have upsized to 285/75R16 or 285/70R17. Who here knows or remembers how much the speedometer was off? How much was it off by?

Butt splice creates a different resistance value in most cases or the continuity is not enough. I use solder and heat shrink where I can. Even to tap the VP44 I would strip back the wire and western union solder a wire in with a sealed single pin connection.

Some of the knock is the timing. Also more fuel will create a larger bang so to counter the rod and crank bearings getting beat to hell on higher fueling you can option harder bearings for both the rods and crank. They are grey in color instead of silver. My truck has a knock but it doesn't seem it's from the engine rather something around the bell housing. In my case that could be the bolts or flex plate creating the knock. Next time I pull the trans I will replace the bolts with ARP hardware and a Goerand SFI spec flex plate. Also when starting cold it won't knock so I'm thinking mine could be static timing may not be where it should be and as the fuel timing changes with temperature rise it begins knocking.

It's not so much that the fuel gels but rather that the cold filter plug point has been met. B20 begins building crystals earlier than B2 or B5. B10 and B20 will work fine with a filter heater.

If the paint has a ceramic resin it should not flake or peal if the prep work was done right. Looking good bud. Hope she purrs when your done reassembling the truck. Also buy yourself some cheap dino oil of your choice, run the engine for a few to check everything out then after everything is good drain it replace your filter and add fresh oil. This will help remove any contamination that may have found its way in during the time everything has been a part.

that issue I am still not getting any readings. Ohm'd out all the wireing and it is all good. All I am left with is the pin 8 on my arduino is burnt up. it might be time for me to build a new controller that isn't "beta" dunno. Might be a good time to do so. Check your Arduino and the connection.

Have you checked the sensor? Even with 5V of source voltage if the sensor has a damaged coil it will fail to properly sense the blade tips on the compressor. Also make sure everything is tight.

Have a picture? I've been told by several builders to only use Cummins or Victor Reinz gaskets.

I have a block heater but no way to power it in an apartment complex. I rely on an idle warm-up out here. Usually 10-15 min while eating breakfast. I need to buy a new engine to build a new one to install in the truck. I've got a handful of things going on within this engine that need to happen ASAP. Seem plenty of equipment run subzero Temps and while driving at 30-50 mph at -25 and -40 degrees F all the cold air does is keep the thermostat from ever opening up.

Well maybe I need to find out why mine reads so low then?

So what's improved on the Fel-pro gasket?