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Where does the EJWA pick up the fuel temperature? I hadn't driven my truck for 2 days and went to start it up this morning. It was 32 degrees outside and the fuel temp was showing 41 degrees. After a few mins of idle and scraping the windows I started driving and the temp was showing 64 degrees. Is this read from the fuel in the VP44?

I checked for codes twice. Once with a small unit and the second time was at autozone. They plugged it in my truck, then downloaded it to their computer. It didn't show any codes at all. Their scanner did not show the abs/brake light that was on either. Do I need to use a special scanner to read that code? Or do I need to go power wash it again to make the CEL come back on then go read it? How does the Chrysler crash detection affect the tach signal? Doesn't the Crank position sensor send the signal to the ECM and from the ECM to the gauge cluster?

So earlier this week I put the big line kit on from my factory filter to the VP44. After checking all the connections I went to the car wash and powerwashed under the hood around the starter, whole factory fuel filter unit, and around the inlet for the VP44. This morning was 36 degrees and the truck started fine and drove about 30 miles on the freeway headed out deer hunting. Pulled up to my friends house and then the RPM gauge drops to zero, CEL on, and the truck started almost like hiccuping or bumping RPM up. Backed out and drove it down the street and the truck seemed to drive fine. Pulled over, shut it off, waited about a minute then turned it over. Truck just cranked, wouldn't start. Bump started to see if it was a fuel issue but the gauge showed 20 psi. You could hear the pump running for the 30 seconds or whatever. After another minute or two it fired up. I drove it back to my friends house and the CEL came on again. We drove up to where we were hunting about 3 miles away. The rpm gauge would randomly drop to zero then back up where it should be. Parked it and was just praying it would work to get me home. After a very successful hunt, drove the truck about 100 yards. No CEL, parked it. Fired it up about 5 mins later. No problems. With a bed full of deer we started to head down to town. CEL came on, RPM at zero. Truck had one or two slight bumps up in rpm but idled fine. Drove it to town to drop one of the deer off. Didn't dare shut it off in case it wouldn't start like earlier that morning. The whole time the EJWA showed I had an RPM reading but the factory gauge showed zero. Truck drove 28 miles or so without any problems with the CEL on, and then the rpm gauge came back like normal. After dropping the deer off (didn't let the truck turn off the whole time) I pulled into the car wash to wash the bed out. Turned it off, washed it out, then it fired back up. CEL was gone. No more issues. I don't have a code reader currently but will try and stop by my friends place to see what that code was. Any ideas on what could be going on? Crank position sensor? Harness not water tight? Is there a waterproof seal around the ECM? The weird thing was my EJWA still showed a reading.

Does it matter if your fuel pressure sensor is pre or post filter? Looking at my FASS HPFP I see there is a port for a fuel pressure gauge on the pump itself. And if the sensor is way back on the pump do the VP44 hammer pulses still affect it?

Katoom, thanks for those links! That sure makes it super easy! I'll get that stuff coming on Monday.

I have about 2 feet of that 1/2" hose left and plan on replacing that section as soon as I figure out what push lock fittings/thread patterns I need. So if I relocate my sensor to the tapped 90 barb I still need the snubber right? I called Edge tech support a couple months ago and asked them about hammer pulses from the VP44 and using a snubber and they said their sensor isn't affected at all by that. I'd rather be on the safe side and get a snubber but I thought it was interesting they said they have never even heard of this before. I most likely will leave the factory lines and pump on there and I'll try and find a cap to cover them up.

I got the FASS 95 gph adjustable pump installed last night. Came with 1/2" Parker fuel line from the tank to factory filter. I have the factory line from the filter to the VP44 for now and the EJWA sensor is on the banjo bolt for the VP44. Install went easier than expected and the truck runs so much smoother. What do you do with the factory fuel lines? Cap them off? Just leave them? And is it fine to leave the factory carter pump on the block or should I take it off and save it just in case?

If I remember correctly, you plug in the jumper to a blue plug in the passenger kick panel by the ECU. You will get a check engine light showing your connection is good when you start it. If the CEL doesn't come on check the connection again. Hook up your timing light and on the right side of the motor on the timing belt cover there is a slotted V. Hook up the timing light to plug #1 (far right, closest to the timing belt cover. Start the car, pull the trigger and watch for the red mark to be right in the middle of the V. If it is off, loosen the 3 bolts on the distributor and advance or retard the timing by rotating the distributor clockwise or counter clockwise then tighten. Unplug jumper and you are good to go! While you are under their replace your spark plugs with NGK type R plugs. They are the only ones to put in a Honda.

I would contact Browning and let them know what happened. They are a local company (Mountain Green, UT) and have excellent customer service. I would be willing to bet that they would give you a new magazine given the circumstances. Even though the magazine is somewhere on a mountain.

Thank you both! I'll put it in the up position for now and order that brake hose.

Today I was inspecting my spare tire and noticed this rod with one end attached to the drivers side rear axle but nothing was hooked to the other side. I looked it up online and found out it is a rear height sensing valve that proportions the rear brakes according to the load in the bed. I read that some people buy a bypass hose or zip tie it in an upright position to increase rear braking power. What position should I put it in? It has been hanging straight down for who knows how long. Should I just secure it to the rod and keep it in that position? Straight up? Parallel to the frame?

I'll keep an eye out here in Utah. What is wrong with people these days?

Is 25 psi too much for a VP44?

Is the stock filter setup good enough? I am leaning towards the Fass 95 gph adjustable series. It comes with larger diameter fuel line from the stock pickup all the way to the stock filter.

Jag1 I recently started running 2 stroke and it helped quite a bit. It improved my gas mileage, better throttle response, engine sound like it runs smoother and my smoke is a lighter shade of black now. Leathermaneod my stock filter has the metal canister. I'll see which part number is will work in mine. Thanks for those part numbers. Dripley I'll see what the biggest pump I can get for the money. I guess it might be too easy to just press the button on the JWA and possibly damage something. Random on question on the EJWA. If I had enough fuel and tapped the VP44 at what power level do you need to worry about your clutch starting to slip? I'll have to check my maintenance records to see what kind of clutch was put in by the previous owner. I know this truck use to pull a huge triple axel trailer with a mini excavator on it.

Is there such thing as too many gallons per hour? Suppose you had a 200 gallon per hour pump and weren't using all that fuel. If the psi stayed the same would you be creating a tank full of foam? Frothy fuel?

I finally got a fuel pressure gauge! I was looking at some ISSPRO gauges online at work and my friend who use to work for Edge came over and convinced me I needed to get the EJWA because it displays everything all in one unit and you get the HP upgrade too. I found one locally for $200 and it came with the pillar mount, EGT probe, fuel pressure sensor, boost elbow, trans temp sensor and even the original box and instructions. It also has the hot unlock which I probably will not use. I compared the $200 price to the 3 ISSPRO gauges I was going to buy and figured this should work at least for EGT and fuel pressure. I haven't tapped the VP44 or installed the trans temp sensor yet but the main reason for putting it on was to see what my fuel pressure is. Idles at 11-12 psi. Driving around with the JWA on 0 (Stock mode) the fuel pressure goes around 8-9 psi. WOT goes to 6. I removed my dummy fuel pressure light which was on the vp44 inlet and the Edge fuel pressure sensor threaded in the same banjo bolt. I called around locally to see what pump local diesel shops recommend and have in stock and I had several people recommend the FASS DDRP for my application. None of them told me to mount it back by the tank or upgrade the stock fuel lines. When I asked about it they said you can but it probably won't make that much of a difference. At this point I think any fuel pump would be better than my dying Carter. Long term I don't see myself upgrading injectors or doing too much more performance wise. When comparing the FASS or Airdog premium air/fuel/filter pumps the GDP mechanical looks like the better way to go. I don't really want to drop $500+ on a fuel pump.

Does anyone have a picture of this junction? Or a link to it? My light still comes on but it is random. I can go 2-3 days without it turning on and then all of a sudden it is on for 2-3 drive cycles.

Has anyone seen the Hercules Trail Digger MT? That is a mean looking tire if you like the aggressive look. I have a friend in AZ that runs the 35x12.50x20 on a lifted Avalanche and we tried really hard to get stuck but those things just kept digging. Never had to put it in 4wd. I was looking at the Hercules Terra Trac AT II. Those tires have a 60k mileage warranty on them and shouldn't howl too loud.

What is the ratio of 2 cycle to a tank of fuel?

My 99 QCLB has 315k on it and is on the 3rd lift pump. The previous owner had the fuel pump replaced by the dealer the first time then used a big rig shop's replacement similar to the carter. So far it has been working great. The big rig shop also installed a fuel pressure dummy light which comes on only when with the wait to start is there. One of the banjo fittings on the VP44 is where the dummy light has been installed. Once the truck is running it never has come on. I mostly use the truck for hauling a little 7x12 utility trailer, camping, and pretty much any other excuse I can use to drive it. Reading through the different articles I see the first upgrade I should do is replace the carter style with a FASS or Airdog high flow fuel pump. On the FASS website I see there are 3 options: Adjustable lift pump 95gph for $436 Direct replacement (no GPH rating just higher flow) for $249 Titanium series with the filters for $597 My future plans for the truck are some sort fuel/timing controller such as the edge or smarty and some ISSPRO gauges. I have seen many setups on here that keep the factory fuel filter and lines, some replace all the lines with 1/2", and some run a pre filter. If you could do it over again, what fuel setup would you choose? I am open to any suggestions. Should I get a fuel pressure gauge and monitor the pressure first? Or replace it then put the gauge on? Is the titanium series with filters worth the extra $ or will a WIX fuel filter in the factory location do what I need? Thanks

I was looking under my truck the other day following speed sensor wires and I noticed the e brake cable on the drivers side wasn't secured in place by the metal clip on the axle. Looks like it has been rubbing and vibrating on a small suspension link. Both the outside cable sheath and the link have notches rubbed in them. So I will be replacing my cable soon. Hopefully it hasn't rubbed through and started letting moisture inside the cable. For now the e brake works and feels fine but I'm sure as soon as it gets cold or the weather goes bad the cable will do the same.

In searching for a track bar I came across Luke's Link. It looks like it is suppose to help get rid of all wandering and be a lifetime fix not just temporary. If I replace my track bar with an adjustable one should I get this Luke's link with it or will the adjustable track bar take care of everything? And any recommendations on a track bar brand? Is one easier to install than the other or last longer? Thanks

I am interested in a leveling kit to help my 2500 to clear larger tires and look level. I have a couple questions. I have found 2" steel leveling kits and nylon kits. Is steel the better option? The nylon claims it is better because it doesn't rust. Any long term effects from putting a leveling kit on? Any brands or specific products you would steer me towards or away from? Thanks!

I have noticed the ABS and brake light randomly coming on in my truck. Speedometer always works, cruise works too, but sometimes turns off. When the cruise shuts off, the ABS and brake don't come on. Is this a sign that me rear speed sensor is going out? I will check my wiring and connections.