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Is there any block or port lower than bottom radiator hose? First time I used drain plug in radiator had heck of time getting it back in. So I've been disconnecting lower hose on radiator for years. If there is block drain I'm thinking about screwing in a shut off valve. Good idea or no.

More than 6 quarts and I slide plastic bag on filter before removing

All 4. Stock hub caps laying in bed next to torque wrench... that needs to tighten lugs. Don't know why the wrench hasn't tighten them yet???

Being Miss America contest is banning swim suites thought I better post before this gets banned next. If you look close...dirty as can be. Hasn't been used in two years. Still have pillar laying on dash. (Lost 2 screws) and fuel is over 2 years old also. Guess I should get busy. Might be selling the whole thing truck and rv. Have smaller rv that is great for shorter trips. But small rv sucks to "full time" in.

Just me but never hurt to put a needle valve shut off just before (What ever you are using for fuel isolator , grease line or brake line) able to shut off line in case of leak and better control hammering due to vp44. I had a leak 1st time i connected but now I use tubing cutter instead of packet knife to cut...nice sharp cuts with no burrs. Temp wise my air brake line good to about 200 degrees most of them. So no worries about fuel temps IMO. My fuel line for gauge starts at lift pump. Reason becuse I don't know temps close to vp/engine.

Yes manometer, thanks for remembering. Had to make one to test propane in rv stove years ago.

Quick question please...when I send a post to my email address from my phone...it goes to my spam folder. How do I correct. And not spam myself? Thanks

Sounds like great deal.

Dynamic trans not far from you if it turns out you need a trans guy. One of the venders listed on here somewhere. Spokane valley exit but make left. Been trying 2 years to get over there so he can do mine.

Thanks folks Guess my thinking not good. (I was pondering the aspect if i could measure how much by pass now at 100,000 then I would have a bench mark so to speak for later miles. ) Won't do any Good now (before you guys blew out of the water? ???)was going to drill a hole at the end of a plumbing plug and put in slobber tube, then tap in a nipple and then with vinyl tube put in some water (sanitary "S type thing at bottom so water didn't go into crank case) and with vinyl tube marked in inches...to see how much blow by pressure is being created. Thinking that blow by only gets worse... then i would know at later mileage if there were meaningful changes in compression... via how much blow by. Ok... any good info or short cuts doing compression tests.

Yes... low pressure

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Real close to 100,000 miles. Wondering if knowing the amount of blow by from slobber tube might be useful as to the health of internal parts at later date. A bench mark number to refer to. Only way I can think of to measure would be to measure amount of blow by raises a water column like a rv propane tester. (Versus an actual psi gauge, that might mess up a gasket, but not sure. ) Any info helpful...thanks.

About 3/4 through it. Good article

Figured out exactly where on tank yet? If doing myself I would cut out a plywood disk and see where flatest spot is before drilling a hole. I had "special" mechanic do mine. Draw straw and sump.

Sump...on my 2 wheel drive I didn't feel good about some road trash ripping it off. 4 wheel drive being higher maybe ok. But if you like sumps I do think beans is good design compared to mine that has about 8 screws. And mechanic cross thread one screw and it leaked. Good thing diapers and bailing wire was invented.

Ibmoble way sounds Better than what i did... i just bought a new metal trash can, washed it out. Turned upside down couple couple days to be completely dry. Then a cheap harbor freight hand pump... that's takes awhile.

Sorry to read your problems. Wonder if your "black granules" are something else?

I've got one blade on fan tiny bit out of wack. No overheating problems even towing 9k. No rivets loose that I can tell. I would hate to have fan go and destroy other stuff. What is OK or when to replace? (edit...found info on what is OK and what is not) WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BEND OR STRAIGHTEN FAN BLADES IF FAN IS NOT WITHIN SPECIFICATIONS. CAUTION: If fan blade assembly is replaced because of mechanical damage, water pump and viscous fan drive should also be inspected. These components could have been damaged due to excessive vibration. (1) Remove fan blade assembly from viscous fan drive unit (four bolts). (2) Lay fan on a flat surface with leading edge facing down. With tip of blade touching flat surface, replace fan if clearance between opposite blade and surface is greater than 2.0 mm (.090 inch). Rocking motion of opposite blades should not exceed 2.0 mm (.090 inch). Test all blades in this manner. (3) Inspect fan assembly for cracks, bends, loose rivets or broken welds. Replace fan if any damage is found

(Side note algae and mold and vehicle not getting used much) My air filter plunger thing never went down. Always said it was ok. Probably 4 or 5 years since I looked at it the filter itself. In corners of air box under the filter I had a little bit of mold growing. Now every other oil change i get new air filter. Diffs...had a 87 ford that was parked for several years. Hooked up trailer on vacation one year and diff made crunching noise. Pulled cover and slight rust on gear teeth that were exposed to air over those years. Not much rust but enough. I changed out fluid and removed rust using emery paper. Now I try once a month start and move everything I have with a cylinder in it. Including my nail guns and generator.

Signature says you have a fass. I would follow their guidelines. I buy fuel from a place that goes through lots of fuel. So the fuel I am buying should be fresh. When I drain my water fuel seperator I catch it in a glass jar and look for stuff. Ususlly 2 or 3 very small drops of what i think is water droplets. Just me...but that's what I do, but no expert.

Op states "black granulars" caught in filter. I dont ever recall seeing that in mine. But I do change my filters probably way to often.

Thanks folks... with all these computers in vehicles now days maybe theft device would be a screen that pops up and you have to enter your pass word to start engine☡

I use it during winter every so often and try to keep tank full. Only because of a new hire that his old job was cleaning out fuel tanks on large ships and commercial fishing boats. His pic's convinced me just to be safe...use some. Matter of fact I'm stuck at home and fuel in my tank is 2 years old now. I do the "shock" treatment. I have very mild winters but lots of humidity so mold grows. Don't store bottle under seat...type i have stinks if cap wiggles loose. I never had a problem and hope I never do.

Thanks to all that replied. My knowledge is very poor in this area. I've got some homework to do?