Rogan

Anyone have or have used AlfaOBD? I've seen it work (YT) with 4G trucks, but only heard about it works with 3G trucks. Any substantial knowledge with it for the pre-4G models?

Happy belated, Michael. Welcome to the 50s.. Enjoy the new aches and pains!

So for shitsngigglez, I threw an old block pump inline, tandem the pumps, for a test.. 24psi KOEO 20 psi KOER @ idle 15-16psi @ 1500-2000 Truck still hazing/smoking, though, so I'm guessing a VP is in order, AS WELL AS and AD/FASS pump, and trash the in'tank + block pumps. Thanks for all your input, guys! As always, it's greatly appreciated. edit: he really needs a new tank, too. this one is so distorted; I am guessing due to the vacuum the tank has lived in, over the last 8+ yrs... lol

So what lift pump is your recommendation for an OE truck? As for VPs, I see Scheid has the VP stock for $1200.. From a lift pump perspective, everything I see is 3-600$, then a big line kit, I've not found yet.. I'd assume a 95gph pump like Raptor or FASS would be plenty?

wasn't doubting, just trying to understand the why's and hows.

So here's my question, concerning you saying the demand vs supplied.. If it's a new OE pump, OE lines, truck is 100% stock, how/why would the demand be higher than the supplied, even at idle? I could see it with a hotrod VP pump, etc, but not 100% stock. The tank vent? You mean the rollover valve? That's the only "vent to atmosphere" fitting on the tank assembly, and it's clear and unobstructed. The entire sender/pump assembly is new, so that shouldn't be an issue. The one I replaced had a capped nipple on the RO valve, the new one is opened. My old 01 had a 0216, and it's cause was a plugged up, jerry-rigged filter setup the previous owner had done. I cleaned that catastrophe up, and my 216 code went away. I'm not saying the VP pump isn't bad, especially with how long it may have been ran with restricted (vacuumed) flow, but I don't wanna throw a $1200 pump on if it isn't needed. How does a timing piston (if that is, indeed, the issue) cause fuel pressure to drop that much, or be that low to start with? Not arguing, more trying to understand..

I'm confused as can be, and this'll be long-winded.. Subject: 1998.5 2500 Cummins 24V 5 speed RCLB 4WD. 115K miles Complaint: He (good friend of mine, and neighbor) stopped by the other day with it poppin', stumbling, hazing, and no power. Also, fuel gauge is not correct, and reads very inaccurately. I checked the FP at the injector pump.. KOEO, 12psi. KOER, idle 10, At 1500rpm, 5-6psi. Fuel filter was changed a few months back, truck's been about 1500 miles since. I could barely hear the in-tank pump (it's had the dodge conversion from block-mounted to in-tank lift pump). Codes: P1693, P0216.. (dun dun dunnnnn) Inspected all the fuel fittings/lines, nothing looks suspect. So I decided "let's start with a replacement in-tank pump, and check for crap in the tank." Ok. Ordered parts (including a new overflow valve). Dropped the tank, and noticed when I removed the return line, the tank took a big ole gasp of air; it was under vacuum.. Once I got the tank out, I noticed a shipping plug still on the rollover valve of the sending unit.. Also noticed the tank was deformed along the bottom and sides, as if it were sucked in for a long period of time, and it was holding that shape now, even after venting. When I talked to the owner, he said "I replaced that in-tank assembly about 8 yrs ago. And off and on, I've noticed over the last couple of years, that when I refuel, the tank has vacuum when I remove the gas cap." So apparently, this vacuum issue has been a problem for a number of years, with most recently, getting noticeable. I replaced the pump/sender assembly, and reinstalled the tank, then cleared codes. Tested pressure.. KOEO, 16psi KOER, 10psi 1500: 8psi Idling, it still constantly hazing, and "missing". So I ran a length of 14g wire back, cut the green 16-18g in-tank pump wire, spliced in the test wire, and went direct to battery.. I also replaced the Overflow valve at this time, and cleared codes again.. KOEO, 20psi KOER, 12psi 1500: 8-9psi And that's where I'm at now. Would the VP44, if failing, act this way? Could it be leaking internally? I don't understand why the pressure drops so much, even at idle. Thoughts on a solution?

I'm going to use the OEM J-hangers from the freightliner, but I have to make new saddle supports. I guess I'll invert them, and where the brackets would normally be vertical on the FL, I'll make that the bottom, against the bed-floor.

I ended up finding a used B&W in great shape, for $150, and ordered a new hardware kit and frame u-bolts from B&W for $40. Thanks for your input, guys!

So I picked up a 70 gallon Freightliner tank for good deal, to use as an aux tank in the truck. I'm now looking into the mounting of said tank. I got the truck's tank straps and mounts, but I don't see a viable option to use these just yet, as far as mounting goes.. The tank is 23D x 41L. Anyone here done this before with a similar tank? If so, pics? Thank ya, Rogan

I'm kinda diggin that... like alot. John, how'd you like that windshield shade? worthwhile? I'm 5'9, so my short *** can see that location really easy..

I bought one, so I'll do a write-up/review, once I get my engine back together. ;) HAH!!! I love how it says "wear safety glasses"...

(for info purposes) BHAF Donaldson Air Filter Primary Duralite- B085011 BHAF = Big Honking Air Filter Brand - DuraLite Efficiency - 99.9% Efficiency Test Std - ISO 5011 Family ECB Rated Flow HR - 469.69 CFM Rated Flow LR - 278.99 CFM Rated Flow MR - 399.06 CFM Restriction HR - 7.99 MM H2O Restriction LR - 4.02 MM H2O Restriction MR - 5.98 MM H2O Style - Round Type - Primary Filter Cross Reference: AC DELCO-A1474C ; BALDWIN-PA2818 ; BIG A-94637 ; CARQUEST-88637 ; CATERPILLAR-3I0003 ; CUMMINS-2912986 ,3912020 ; FLEETGUARD-AH1141 ; FLEETRITE-AHR81141 ; FORD-9576B085011 ; FRAM-CA6818 ; FREIGHTLINER-DNB085011 ; HASTINGS-AF2329 ; HAVAM-HD1915 ; HERKULES (TELSNIG)-B085008 ; LUBER FINER-LAF2533 ; NAPA-6637 ; PACCAR-Y06012208 ; ; SF-FILTER-SL12903 ; WIX-46637 ,546637 ; WOODGATE-WGA1138,-?+-íBHAF, big honking air filter, Tyma

I've been looking for pics/videos of people that use/install them to see how it looks, fits, etc, but it's not an easy thing to find (especially in video form)..

Survey says? ;)

UPDATES: Front diff assembly looked fine, no play. fluid was super clean, no metal anything came out. Does not 'pop' when no front driveshaft is in (duh...) Front driveshaft is timed, u joints and cardan joint is fine.. *one* u-joint cap is spinnable by hand, which is odd, but not issue-causing Rear driveshaft is fine, true, not bent, no bad joints (it's one-piece DS) Rear output shaft seal leaks a tad; it's just over a year old, since t-case rebuild. Removed both shafts, removed tailshaft housing and snapring Can't get the case to separate; Permatex "Right Stuff" is refusing to let go. Tried driving a putty knife in the seam, pry bars, mallets, etc. Not gonna come apart.. **Ordered a couple GM tools designed to separate case-halves , gonna try to get them to 'work' when they get here.. Tools should be here about Tuesday or Wednesday. They're regularly about $300ea, but bought them (2) for about $13ea from a GM dealership closed down and liquidating tools/parts. Truck showed up with a laundry list.. Low on full-throttle power Truck runs RaceMe tuner, EGR/DPF delete, stock airbox, 5" TBE Rear Door locks, rear power windows, and one rear speaker not working Transfer Case banging/popping Rear parking brake inop Random door lock/unlock, window clicking, etc when it rains. Fixes: air filter was beyond nasty. - Replaced filter, test drive showed crazy power has returned! LR door harness had 7/8 wires broken, RR door harness 5/8 wires broken - Rebuild door harnesses; all doors function as intended Still troubleshooting LR park cable sheathing was busted, equalizer adjuster under left rocker was max-adjusted - replaced LR park cable, adjusted brake shoes, re-adjusted equalizer. Apparently driver's window rolled down a tad while driving, and rain comes in, drips on master switch, viola! Causes issue! - roll window up when it rains ;) So t-case is all that's left.. again, just waiting on tools to see if they'll split the tcase.

3.55s was a guess.. I found out after the fact that it's 3.73/4.10.. It is a 6MT so it's listed as 3.73. I'll drain the t-case soon, but wanted to test everything else I could before doing that, It's really weird that this same 'symptom' keeps coming back, even with a replacement t-case. I'll drop the front diff cover, maybe today, to see what that looks like.. I don't think it will be a diff, but you never know. It did this same noise before I did the t-case conversion, and didn't do it after I swapped them.. Until now. I also found out that the MCSB SRW is 160.3" wb, and the QCLB DRW is a 160.5" wb. so I have a struggle thinking that even a DRW driveshaft ( 2/10ths inch longer) would be long enough to cause damage, if it has been swapped. I feel sorry for my buddy, because every time he turns around, he's running into some issue with this truck.. So I'm trying to help him out as much as I can. Will do. Did this last weekend. Saw no slipping/chirping. I plan to check it for excessive movement, once I pull the t-case. I don't think the DS is of issue, but I will examine this further, once I tear into the t-case removal. Thanks for your info, guys!

So, working on my problem child again.. 2008 MC 3500 SRW 6.7L 6MT 4WD.. Original tcase took a dump, due to a randomly-engaging 4wd motor. Truck has 150k / 6400hrs on it currently. Rebuilt the 273D tcase, replaced all gears, seals, bearings, chain, bushings, etc. shafts were fine. 7 moths later, it **** the bed, with the motor trying to engage 4WD randomly, regardless of speed; switch in 2WD position. Tried sourcing a local 271D and convert to manual shift. Couldn't find a 271D but found a 271F. VERY minimal differences in the two, with one being shift pattern and the other being the output flange/shaft. rebuilt 271F using the D's shaft. Installed manual shifter, boot, etc. Worked like a champ, using all new parts.. that was 4/19. Welp, here we are again.. 4WD mode, apply engine load/torque, and it sounds like the chain/sprockets are jumping teeth.. violently.. It doesn't take much pedal pressure, either.. If steady moving, 2nd gear, couple miles/hr, no pops. let off the throttle to prepare to stop, and pop-pop-pop from the tcase.. Trying to figure out why this truck keeps knocking tcases out, I decided to jack a wheel up, turn/count revs to quickly determine axle ratios.. - Back Story - My buddy bought this truck used about 5 yrs ago. At that time it had about 75k miles on it. Wanted to do exh, DPF/EGR delete, tuner, etc.. I opened the hood, and I find every wiring harness retainer (from radiator to the transfer case) not fastened.. My first thought was someone's had this drivetrain out before.. The Tcase was also repainted silver, so I assumed it was rebuilt.. Since then, it's had a clutch replacement, leaks fixed, transfer case rebuilt 2x, replaced once, injector set replaced (noticed a non-stock bolt on the #3 rocker section), radiator, AC condensor, rear door jam harnesses repaired, blower motor, resistor block, main window switch, and various other things fixed on this POS. I told him to sell it, but he's in too deep on it. Back on topic, jacking the LF wheel up, trans in neutral, I rotate the tire one rev, and the Fr DS rotates about 1.6 times. Same for rear. Obviously this is an incorrect measurement. Do BOTH wheels need to be rotated for a proper count? I'm trying to avoid knocking off the diff covers if at all possible. Also, the driveshaft's PN (why is this piece a sticker??) is illegible to read. I'm assuming this truck has 3.55s I wanted to check them because with everything else that was shady AF with this truck, I wonder if it's got 2 different ratios in it. In 4HI, on gravel, it seemed to track out fine, with no weird hopping/marking of tires in gravel, so I think they're the same ratios. The driveshaft, from the rear-most portion of the output shaft seal, to the lip on the driveshaft is about 2-2.5 in. My 07 QCLB DRW has same looking shaft, but much longer space between same two points. I know, different trucks, etc.. But I'm starting to wonder if the driveshaft in this truck could be too long, knocking the *** out of the transfer case, causing the death to the TCase.. I'm grasping at straws, at this point.. Thoughts? Suggestions?

I'm not "brand-religious" (except for Dodge), so I don't care what name is on it, just wanna make sure whatever I get is dependable; be it Draw-Tite, B&W, Curt, Capt. Crunch, idc.

From pictures, the Curt does look to be more 'stamped steel' ish..

What's you guys' thoughts on brands, Curt vs B&W? They both seem to have same class weight (7500TW, 30K Total). the B&W looks to be built a little heavier, but I've never laid physical eyes on a Curt setup, so I can't really speak to them. From what I'm seeing, the Curt is about 75-100$ cheaper, on average. Thoughts?

I know with my beater 2008 Malibu and my wife's GLK350, it was all about bulb-clocking. If it's not at 3-9 with the LEDs, it'll scatter horribly. However, both of those are single-element bulb-design (H7, H11). With the 2/3G Ram, it's dual-element, which I've had no experience with.

Yeah, I generally use my 28oz deadblow hammer. Sometimes (often) it won't separate the halves, though. My buddy made a tool that would spread tongs apart (kinda like a scissor-jack or snap-ring pliers) to fit between the lugs on the tcase, but he can't find it now.. it worked like a boss!

We'll see how hard it is to get back apart. Wasn't but a couple of years ago, I tore in to this thing, last time, when I converted it from electric to manual select... I think the chain has stretched.. It pops a lot under 4WD load.. sounds like maybe the gears are hopping in the chain.. Yes, I put new gears and chain in it last time.. FML. Must be all that HP/TQ lol