Rogan

It shouldn't even be close enough to touch the cross-member. you can verify by like.. put something like a blob of anti-sieze on the cross member where it's "shiny" and drive it around. Then, check to see f any anti-sieze has made it's way to the pitman arm via contact.. That'll tell you if it's actually hitting it or not. If it is, something's seriously wrong.

I don't have a swaybar on either end of the truck, and have noticed no real difference. a slight roll when taking curves, but nothing hardly noticeable, otherwise.Even pulling the 9Klb trailer, no ill effects are noticed.

I've not hidden my dislike of the VP44 and it's electronic 'wonderchild' properties.. I'm sorry, but I still feel like it's way more complicated of a device than it should be. It's too temperamental, too costly for even little crap (APPS), and so on. The P-pump is horse of another color. It, too, is expensive to replace, and has it's idiosyncrasies (like racks sticking, timing complications, etc. But it's far less complicated, and requires almost no electronics/computers to be used effectively. My 12V 5speed p-pumped truck with only exhaust, bhaf, #10 fuel plate, 3K springs, and added boost (roughly $400 total spent on aftermarket parts) was 3 times the truck my 24V 6spd VP44 truck is, with it's Edge, exhaust, bhaf, (8-900$ worth of stuff.) Both trucks have mid-100K on the odometer. 12V got 26-27mpg on highway (hand-calculated), 17-18mpg city. 24V is about 12-13 city, with rare occasions of 15-16 city, and (if I'm really lucky) 19 highway. Seems to me the 24V, more "precisely controlled" VP44 should get a lot better than that, economy-wise. But it doesn't. I hate the "DBW" operation of this setup; i prefer a more mechanical link between my foot and the throttle control. Do I want to swap to a p-pump on the 24v? Yes Will I? Eventually, most likely. Why? Because I prefer the mechanical functionality, less expensive maintenance costs, nigher tolerance to crap, etc. Does the VP44 functionality/usefulness not entice me? Some do, most don't. Do I bash the VP44 every chance I get? No. It does what it does, and it does it decently. I just think it's a little too picky. I'm sure I'll get a poke or two from this, but whatever. I am just not the fan of the VP44 that a bunch of others are.

I'll try to check after work.

CranK Position SensorCaM Position Sensor

Mind if I ask what size socket you used for the Oil Pressure sensor? Thanks! larger picture location: http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/mt_2_feb98/figures/isb_components.jpg CKP # 10, lower-right of picture. Fuel System Components - 24-valve Cummins Turbo Diesel engine 1. Fuel Transfer (Lift) Pump 2. Fuel Return Line (to Fuel Tank) 3. Fuel Supply Line (Low Pressure, to Engine) 4. Fuel Heater 5. Water-in-Fuel (WIF) Sensor 6. Fuel FilterlWater Separator 7. IA T Sensor 8. Map (Boost) Sensor 9. Fuel Drain Manifold 10. CKP Sensor 11. CMP Sensor 12. Overflow Valve 13. Drain Valve 14. Fuel Pressure Test Potts 15. ECM 16. ECT Sensor 17. Fuel Injection Pump 18. Throttle Lever Bell Crank and Apps 19, High-Pressure Fuel Lines 20. Fuel Injectors 21. Fuel Heater Temperature Sensor (Thermostat) 22. Oil Pressure Sensor 23. Fuel Injector Connector 24. Drain Tube 25. Intake Manifold Air Heater/Elements

Amen, brother! I'm deaf in one ear, anyway.. And my tires make more noise than my filter, exhaust and turbo, combined.

Hmm... [checks bank account... hollow...]Dammit..

I want a Suzuki Carry... Some day...

I have a K$N open-element filter for now, but will soon change to the big Donaldson. I installed the filter meter from the stock airbox into the inlet tubing, as well, to aid in filter monitoring. It's been better than a year, and no drop in flow (per metering device) thusfar.

That's the OHC. Overhead console. Open the garage door opener compartment. Two pinch clips in there. Pinch them and slide the console backward. Its a _____ but will come out. Sent from my rooted EVO's tiny keyboard with my opposable thumbs...

Dripley, wrong ops. Its well over $100 closer to $200. Sent from my rooted EVO's tiny keyboard with my opposable thumbs...

you can leave the middle dome light alone; it's fastened to the headliner, itself, not the roof.

You don't really even have to 'remove' it, just drop the front. [*]3 phillips screws on each visor [*]1 phillips screw on each visor retainer [*]OHC has 2 pinch clamps and pull backward [*]2 T20 bolts retain pass. side grab handle [*]both a-pillar trims pop off [*]pull down door seals enough to clear the edges of the HL [*]*if you have a QC, then torx20 takes the screws out of the overhead QC door latch trim covers [*]Pop the two center plastic retainer pins in the rear/center headliner (leave the rear-most push pins in the headliner Then I just let the HL hang down in the front, resting on the front seat headrests.. This provided plenty of room to get in there and wire it all up. Grounded the cab lights to a single point in the ceiling, and ran a single power wire down the A-pillar, into the dash to the light switch, tagged the black w/yellow striped wire (PRK LIGHT wire) and reassembled it all back. Takes like 5 minutes to drop the headliner.

Thanks, mystic. Drilling that first hole was nerve-racking! Once I popped it through, though, it was all cake from there..(I guess that could be applied to several in things ;) )

it will ALWAYS be 5.9L, or 360 c.i. of volume, period, regardless of RPM. This can potentially become a conversation about thermal dynamics and flow, which is one of my favorite discussions Engine Volumetric Flow Equation This equation is for finding the volume of air going into the engine. The displacement of the 5.9L is 360 cu.in. We have a four stroke engine; the intake valve on a cylinder opens once every 2 revolutions of the engine. So, for every 2 revs the engine takes in 360 cu.in. of air. How many pounds of air is that? That depends on the pressure and temperature of the air in the intake manifold. But the volume is always 360 cu.in. every 2 rpm. To calculate Volumetric Flow: volume of air (cu ft/min)= engine rpm x engine cid (1728 x 2) 2200 x 360 = 792000 1728 (cubic ft in inches) x 2 = 3456 792,000 / 3456 = 229.17 cuft/min of flow Ideal Gas Law/Mass Air Flow The Ideal Gas Law is a handy equation to have. It relates the air pressure, temperature, volume, and mass (ie, pounds) of air. If you know any three of these, you can calculate the fourth. The equation is written: PV=nRT where P is the absolute pressure (not the gauge pressure), V is the volume, n is related to the number of air molecules, which is an indication of the mass (or pounds) of air, R is a constant number, and T is the absolute temperature. What are absolute temperature and pressure? Do we care? Of course we do! Absolute pressure is the gauge pressure (measured by a gauge that reads 0 when it is open to the outside air) plus atmospheric pressure. Atmospheric pressure is about 14.7 psi at sea level. Example: a boost gauge reads 0 psi before it is hooked up. Hook it up, boost the car, and it reads 17 psi. 17 psi is the gauge pressure, the absolute pressure at sea level is 14.7 + 19 = 33.7. A pressure reading is marked psia or psig. The "a" stands for absolute, the "g" for gauge. (The psi stands for Pounds per Square Inch). As we just showed, 17 psig = 33.7 psia. A perfect vacuum is 0 psia, or -14.7 psig. The absolute temperature is the temperature in degrees F plus 460. This gives degrees Rankine, or deg R. If it is 80 deg F outside, the absolute temperature is 80 + 460 = 540 deg R. The Ideal Gas Law can be rearranged to calculate any of the variables. For example, if you know the pressure, temperature, and volume of air you can calculate the pounds of air: n=PV/(RT) That is useful, since we know the pressure (boost pressure), the volume (which we calculate as Engine Volumetric Flow), and we can make a good guess on the temperature. So we can figure out how many pounds of air the engine is moving. And the more pounds of air you move, the more power you will make. Here is the Ideal Gas Law rearranged to the two handiest forms, with the required constants: To get pounds of air: n(lbs/min)= P(psia) x V(cu.ft./min) x 29 (10.73 x T(deg R)) To get the volume of air: V(cu.ft./min) = n(lbs/min) x 10.73 x T(deg R) (29 x P(psia)) To stop the insane thread hijacking I just pulled off, I can start a tech thread on Thermal Dynamics of engine efficiency, flow and such, if we'd like.. (I love this stuff)

sorta.. The deal is, and you have to remember, that it's a 5.9L engine. That means 5.9L of air, period, regardless of how much boost pressure or RPM. You can't put 6L of air into a 5.9L container. ;) The speed and pressure at which that 5.9L of air is experiencing, is definitely another matter.

For three hundred friggin' dollars, they had better guarantee a substantial increase. ;)My concern is, however, the turbine wheel/housing is still only so big, as is the wastegate flapper. $300 is a good portion of the price of a new [bigger] turbo, no?

The other night, towing my trailer. Brightness of new LED cab lights..

To be fair: were there any mods done to the truck, aside from the exhaust? The exhaust size increase will only really be noticed once mods are in place (and I don't mean just an air filter, etc.) The difference in a stock/near stock truck, stock boost levels, etc, and the correlation of 3" vs 4" exhaust, is that the 3" exhaust , with it's smaller diameter, allows the expanded (hot) exh. gasses to keep a high exit speed, due to the reduction in diameter. As the EGTs drop, the speed slows down. In essence, you could do a 4" dp, to a 3" exhaust, and this would keep the exit speeds high, promoting a sort of scavenging, if you will. At 20psi boost and 1000*F EGTs, you're at a much lower volume of thermal flow requirement, that you would be at 35-40psi boost and 1000*F EGTs.. If you're 4" system had a 3" downpipe, then you're not really gaining anything, especially if the setup is stock.

The measurements I used/came up with are on my 2001, so yeah, late 2G trucks. If you're using Dodge-style lights, then your front-to-back measurements may be different. I used the Ford style, so they're a little shorter, IIRC. My lights are 4" long, and the mounting screws are left to right. I think the Dodge mounting screws are front to back? Regardless, from centerline of the cab, you'll find (when you drop the headliner) that the lights are CENTER, 8.5", and 21" from center, either direction. (or center 0", left-inner @ 8.5", left-outer @ 12.5" from left-inner, same for right side. I think the wiring hole on inside of roofline (factory location) is about 7-3/4" from windshield edge.

As long as the swaybar and steering box locations are the same between the two, I don't see why it couldn't be used for a 2WD as well.

I need this.. ...but I need the cashola to buy it... I bought the Banks one for my '96 for $300.. Wished I could find another dealio like THAT!

If I were closer, I'd come over and put my 01 2500 suspension on her truck, and her 7" lift on mine

Winning.