dripley

Like Mike says next time it happens pull the fuse on the pump and see what happens. In the video it looked like it did not hit until the pressure got up around 13 or so psi. It then looked to idle at only 16 psi.

I was thinking along those lines but not sure. I only know 2 things about diffs, one change the fluid, 2 i dont know any thing else about how they work. On the other hand I now have new iron on both sides. Brakes, rotors, and ujoints. So far so good. I was surprised that after 14 years and 8 months of driving 378k miles that the secondu joint was still in good shape. Grease still present in all the cups and no play in it either. This out of 1 ungreaseable joints. Not sure when the other went but maybe that was the source of the loud bang I experienced about 3 months ago from the right front. I bought a floor jack a couple months ago with a HF super coupon for $60. It is a 3 ton rapid pump. When I bought my truck I had a 4 ton bottle jack that was a pain to use on the truck, the moved up to a 12 ton. Vast improvement. But the floor jack was worth every cent. The guy in the picture is my grandson Chandler. He was last here when he helped me change out my 6 speed. He was a big help and we go the right side twice a fast than me alone. Great young man. Just graduated high school.

sounds like the shop he took it to does not mind throwing some one else money at a problem. All good questions above that need answering to move forward. Trouble codes would be nice but if they were not cleared after all of that they could be deceiving.

If your pump is run by the ECM pressure should not be a problem. When you are cranking on it whats you pressure gauge read. Mine is usually about half while cranking. About the only time you can tell this is when you have to crank on it for a few seconds. Mine usually starts so quick you cant get a read on the gauge. I went thru this with my truck a while back. Out of the blue parked up hill for several hours and it took a few seconds to hit. The next time when it did not just bust off i let go of the key and let the pump run then hit it again and it fired right off. Only did this a few times at my brothers house on his steep driveway. then it stopped so I never found what was happening. A year or 2 prior to this I went thru the same thing only worse. I replaced the washers on the back of the head and the return tee grommets and problem solved until the little episode mentioned above.

I replaced my slave a good while back. It also had the bleeder screw on it. I filled the slave and reconnected it. Two or three pumps and it was fine. I did my master a long time ago. I was totally ignorant of this sealed system. I filled it and hooked it up though I lost a fair amount of the fluid. Not knowing how to bleed it I just drove it. Really had to pump it to use the clutch but over a little more than a week all the air worked its way out and has been fine since.

I got the passenger side all buttoned up yesterday just need to bleed the lines. Tore down the drivers side and all looks good on this side. No play in the joint every thing is nice and tight. Still might replace the u joint and unit bearing since I am there. I did notice about an 1/8" ti 3/6" rotational play when spinning the hub(left front). It corresponds with the same play in the front drive shaft as the slack is taken up in the transfer case. The right side does not seem to do it. Anything there I should be concerned with? I have similar play in the rear drive shaft, it has been there a long time and I have noticed no ill affect from it. @Mopar1973Man I replaced my right front unit bearing and might just go ahead and replace the left. There does not seem to be anything wrong with them other that the have 170k on them. Thought they might help you with you tone wheel problem. One of the sensor wires has rubbed on the wheel but not all the way thru the insulation. Never any trouble out of either of them.

I dont see why unless you just want it. My AD works the same way. I do have it plumbed thru the oe filter canister with a big line kit but at this time there is no filter in it. Been meaning to put one back in, just cant seem to remember to buy one.

I would bleed it. It is easy to do with the screw. It will spray hydraulic fuel quite well, have a rag handy.

measuring mine I came up with 6.5" on backset and I read that the stock wheels are +44 mm offset. Mine are the stock alloy wheels.

That is how the filters work on the Fass system. The larger micron filter and water separator to protect the pump and the smaller micron filter to protect the VP. If you want another filter before the VP just run the fuel thru the oe canister.

How vulnerable is the Fuel boss to dirtiy fuel? We know the VP needs clean fuel but what does the FB need to be safe. I believe the factory canister has options to filter enough for the VP. Just dont want to overthink this deal.

did the right on last night myself. I have a ball joint press that worked just fine after I found something to use for a receiver cup. My set had nothing deep enough. They were in pretty darn tight but came out ok. The new one went in in a quarter of the time it took to get the old one out.

Front brakes were getting thin. When I got it apart I noticed the right front u joint was toast. Not sure about the left yet but will do it any way. They are the oe joints.

I just have a standard Air Dog set up. The filter block and the pump are all mounted together. Looks almost identical to Mike's setup except mine is on the inside of the frame rail. I can still get a picture if want it. Shes sitting on jack stands at the moment.

One of the things that I did read was the bio was more solvent like than the diesel and that it would clean the crud out of the fuel system and likely clog the filters. I have not experience anything like that. I do run a Donaldson P550550 for a prefilter and a Donaldson P551315 for an after filter. I currently dont have a filter in the oe canister. Need to get one someday. When I had the tank out to install my AD, the tank itself appeared very clean other than a few specs floating around in the tank. Not sure what crud the bio would knock loose unless it was in the fuel lines. I never experienced any premature filter clogging. @jag I am assuming that you are brought this up just to reinforce the importance of good filtration or is there something you know about the bio being dirtier than regular #2?

I am just speaking personally here about the Bio Diesel. My truck likes the bio, in either 5 to 15% range. It does not seem to affect my mileage. It does have a lower BTU's than straight #2 diesel. Mike has some good info on that. I have been getting some good mileage lately due to the trips I am making thru the mountains at much lower speeds. That and the comp have skewed my numbers from what I would normally see. My next job is in Richmond Va and will be straight interstate runs which is more the norm for me. We shall see how that turns out. Again this is just my personal observations and nothing scientific. Bio and my truck are happy together. Google it and you can see whats out there about it. Thats what I did. The part that bugs me is the 5% or less thing and it not having to be labeled. Your are just not sure what you are getting

Not sure how I missed that one. The man is good with his pictures.

Out today with the wife looking for things to plant in the bed I ripped the bushes out of yesterday and my wife finds a dwarf peach tree. It only grows about 4 feet high and looks pretty cool in the picture. So now we are peach farmers too. The bush already has half a dozen peaches growing on it.

Speaking for the electrically challenged here I understand why you just bought an alternator and threw it on. The advice you are getting is sound but you have to do some testing or you just end up with spare parts or new parts that are not much better than you had to start with and after trading in your core you are just stuck. This issue might be beyond your alternator but you will never know until you do some testing. You have to eliminate things to be sure of what needs to be done.

Well I did manage to tear into the right side today. With the yard I already had started, and the heat it has been fun. On top of that since I have no truck to drive I have been using the wife's Saturn. Great little car, key word "little", to get around in. It is the getting in and out thats fun when you butt is only 6" off the ground, Anyway the last time I did this was before finding the forum and I spent i dont know how many hours trying beat the unit bearing out of the front end. When I put all back together I was very liberal with the anti seize and all I had to do was back off the bolts and whack the some and off it came. Got down to the drive shaft pretty quick. I have a ball joint press and decided to go ahead and remove and replace the u joint since I had 2 here from when I replace the unit bearings 6+ years ago. they were solid then and left them in there. Two of the cups were dry and one was devoid of bearings and the opposite side had crumbs of bearings left in it. Getting the old one out was fun. Kind of reminiscent of removing the old unit bearings because they had been in there for near 15 years. My press did not have the proper receiver cup to press the u joint out completely so a trip to the hardware store was in order. Turns out a 1 1/2" X 1 1/4" bushing make a perfect cup for removal of the u joint. The new one installed quite easily. They are Precision Universal Joints made in the USA, but greasable. The cups on the old one have Spicer on them with no part# just the letters C O P in a weird configuration. Not sure what to make of it. So the dive shaft is ready to go back on. The ball joints on the right are still tight and I am not going to replace them. I don't want to wait 3 days to get them and don't want to pay a fortune to get them here quickly so I am rolling the dice. Sorry @IBMobile time just aint on my side. 2 years 8 months and 12 days from now I retire and I am counting on being able to park the truck then and really go over it. Of course if things work in 1 year 8 months and 10 days I will be headed to @Mopar1973Man house with money, parts and an assortment of whiskey and beer in hand for a fun week of auto repair. On a side note I have not gotten in to the drivers side to know what else might be wrong there. And I left out I have to new unit bearings that will probably go ahead and install, just not sure yet since the old ones seem fine. Got both of them from a member here some years ago for $150 for the pair. The ones I replaced back then cost me about $700 for the pair.

Of the top of my head I would be thinking concrete cap block. I think I have seen them as thin as 2" or maybe some cheap patio pavers. Aint gotta be pretty just undigable.

We planted a little garden this year. It has been a while for me. A few tomato plants of various types, couple of pepper plants, some herbs and one pimento plant. Not sure about the last but we are going to have some.

Looking at your avatar it appears that you do not have stock wheels. I have been searching for wheels and have had a hard time finding wheels with the stock offset Most all I can find are near 0 offset and the stock wheels have about 45mm offset as I remember. From the pics you posted yours look to be near 0. Please correct me if I am wrong.

Hate your logic. Thats why I am shopping for parts already. Dont want to go this deep again anytime soon. We have 2 drive line shops here in town. Hope one can help come Monday at least with u joints anyway, and maybe ball joints and asprin. Thank goodness I have next week off too.

You can remove the cross over tubes with a thick bladed screwdriver. No need for the special tool unless you just want it. Unless you have removed the tubes and injectors I would suspect shot o rings on the tubes. They are easy to replace.