dripley

It's the main wiring harness connection. Yes, when I pushed it tight and slid the lock in place it stopped the craziness. Have not looked at a wiring diagram to see what that could have had to do with it.

i running my scan gauge and it reads true to the gauge as best as it can. Mine takes crazy swings down when it wants to and the scan gauge, although it is slower, tries to follow the gauge. The other day the temps wigged out. I was seeing anywhere from 90* to 185*. Just bouncing around like crazy. I noticed it while ideling when the exhaust brake kept cutting in and out. Got to poking around under the hood and noticed the slide that locks the wiring harness connector to the VP had slid out. i pushed the connector and slid the lock back in place and the gauge settled back down and has not done it since.

While not a great internet interpreter, ROFLAMO was one of the first I learned. I do love this place and all that makes it what it is.

CDP, your under hood gives me hope. Mine lives on construction sites and the under hood is less than pleasant. When I do make it out to Mike's house I can hear it already, just like one of those bar rescue or kitchen nightmare shows, " I am going to help you with your truck, but you gotta clean this sob up before I go in there". Nice job on the wiring by the way

They are tight and not leaking=no problem.

Yes maam. I ll take care of it all after school today. Great one there MM. I was going to take my wife to dinner for mothers day. She had been snoozing pretty much all day and no place I suggested seemed to excite her until I mentioned Wendy's of all places. So we had a $15 dinner at Wendy's for Mothers Day. I am still in shock on that one. Hope you had a god Mothers Day.

Another thing to remember is since you plan on doing the injectors later you will have to go thru the same process all over again. You will be more than half way to doing the injectors while having the cross over tube out. If they are not leaking I would wait and do both at the same time. just me of course.

On my second set of ATP's. They have been as good of tire I have ever run on mine. Got 65k out of the first set and it is looking like I will get near 60k out of these. Great in the snow, rain, towing and around the job in the mud. I dont do any of road so dont know how they do in that situation. I will be putting another set when these give out.

You are probably right on the second set. I might have read that wrong and associated the 6.5 with the rim size I have seen a couple of sets of 4th gen around here but in the wrong direction for me. I will do some more digging when I get up that way next week. Got the beer just no time for that long of a trip. But thanks anyway. I see the center caps even work. I am partial to those caps. I remember your cracking. I as I remember yours were cracking around the rim, Mine cracked from the outside of the rim towards the center and only on the back side. I think for what I use my truck for the 17's to the 18's might be beneficial since I am not off in the wilderness like you are. Last time I checked the tire were pricier than the 16's and I dont like that at all. I see what you are seeing and you might be right. Then I see they are south of me and I have to go north, I do like them however. As far as the cracking is concerned, they are cracking from the out side of the inner rim towards the center.

The first looked like the Acoas in my mind, at least ones I have seen. The second set looked just like a set of American Racing wheels I saw last nighthttp://www.autoanything.com/wheels-rims/american-racing-ar23-wheels?kc=GOOGADW&k_clickid=1d98e7e1-942e-4423-8dbd-936ecbbccbc7&adgroupid=209349&k_trackingid=139x2058245&gclid=CPbui5-6ycwCFZM6gQodk9QEYw. I did like them. The craigs list ones are only 6.5" wide and not sure I want to go that route. I looked at so many freaking wheels last night that I am not sure I will look at any more for a while..Every thing I liked only came in 0 off set.. Matter of fact almost everything came in a 0 off set. I got some time, the spare set I have seem to be ok but I would suspect they might be cracking soon themselves. The weird thing is the first wheel that I noticed was cracked. I had a fender bender about 2 years ago and the only damage I got was one of my wheels got scarred up pretty good when the center cap got torn off. When I bought my last set of tires I retired that rim and it had 7 cracks in it and lost no air. The cracks I am seeing are radial from the outside of the rim towards the middle.

anything like these?https://asheville.craigslist.org/wto/5535351061.html Here is one other I foundhttps://columbia.craigslist.org/wto/5567830809.html I looked at some 3rd gens a few years back and it seemed the tire cost more than the 16". Have not priced any lately.

Hope it all works out. Wiring is definitely not one of my strong points.

How old are your fuel lines? Mine are 5 or six years old and appear to be in good shape. Mine came with the blue parker hose.

Went in to the tire store today with a slow leaking tire. Turns out to be a cracked rim. I bought a used set of oe rims a while back so I have some spares, but with 3 rims with cracks I dont think what I have is going to last much longer. So I have done alot of looking this evening and while there are a lot of wheels out there I find very few that have the same off set and backspace as the OE. From my research and doing some measuring of the OE rims it would appear I need a 43mm off set and 6.2" back space. Not sure why you need the 2 measurements. It would seem to me the they are 2 different ways to measure the same thing. Almost everything I saw had a 0mm off set. Not sure I want the wheels sticking out another 1 3/4" from where they are now. I guess what I need to know is if I am reading these measurements right? I did not have this trouble with my trailer wheels, they were marked and I had plenty of choices. What are some of you all running?

01 is right about the possible hard start with a circuit hot with key on but there some circuits, such as the power windows that are hot key on but off while starting. Probably not the only one. That would eliminate the pump running while starting. This way or installing a switch still leaves the pump running unless the power is turned off I installed the oil pressure switch in a port near the center of the block just above the oil pan on the drivers side. Not sure what its for but I did run that 2 pump set up for 3 years or more with no hard starting or other issues. The switch is still there serving as a plug. I could probably get picture of it tomorrow if needed. The relay set up will only work if the ECM is working right. If it is losing power it wont trigger the relay.

Could be that part of the ECM that controls the lift pump is failing. Not an unheard of failure by any means. That is assuming you are getting the power for FRRP from oe pump connection. If my memory is right that connection come straight out of the ECM to the lift pump. Not sure what the ECM does to to protect itself it the pump tries to pull to many amps if it is starting to fail. Getting that pump off of the ECM is a good idea. Most of the after mark stuff does that thru a relay using the oe circuit for the relay trigger. This takes the load off of the ECM. You can connect up to key on hot circuit to run the pump, but if you wreck and rupture a fuel line the pump will keep pumping fuel until the key is turned off. A good many years back I ran a booster pump in conjunction with an in tank pump. The power went thru an oil pressure switch. No oil pressue and the pump did not run. Enough of my rambling. Hopefully it was just a loose or dirty connection and you got. Time will tell.

Permits? Takes the fun out of it.

I have not tried it but it sure seems that would work just as good. It just compresses to both surfaces. It would also need to be diesel compatible.

Be careful, i actually have an extra one on the job right now. Need a window in the shop too. Hmmmmmm

Good job there Mikey. I used a floor jack for my 5600 but did not think about extra straps for safety. I was very nervous with that thing sitting up so high. Found a HF tanny jack for the second time for 1/2 price on craigs list.

Did you buy the fittings or just the sealing washers? The fittings should be fine it is the washers that go bad. Not saying a fitting cant fail but not likely. Cummins sells the grommets for the tee. Maybe they have a better price that the dealer.

I just got home and the filters I ordered were here. Nothing fancy like go fast parts but will ease some off the shelf purchases. thought it was strange the invoice said to bill APARTSDEPOT.com. Googled it and it came up Filter Products corp, Filterspros.com. Same address too. I did some more digging and still could not find them any cheaper even with free shipping. The red is the price + dividing the shipping cost by 12.

You could wire into a key on circuit and see what happens or check the voltage to the pump when the pressure drops out. If you are getting 12v to the pump when you see 0 pressure I would say the pump is toast. What fuel pressure are you seeing normally?

i built all kinds of stuff from left overs on jobs. you can usually tell what a super builds by what his house looks like. For instance I tiled the stoop in front of my door with Burger king tile, the mud are inside the door with Longhorn Steakhouse slate tile and did my living room with bead board and yellow pine trim and paneling from TGI Friday's. It all looks good and most never know where comes from if I dont tell them. Got a bunch of CFA floor and wall tile for the bathroom remodel, coming soon I hope.

I just bought some oil and fuel filters from Filterspro. The DBL was only $11.50 there where other places were $16 to $22 for the same. I bought 6 DBL's 4 fuel filters and two WS fuel filters. Shipping was $22 for all.