dripley

I adjusted mine until they started to grab then backed them off a couple clicks until you just barely heard them touch the drum. They were all new parts and as they wore in I should have adjusted them again. Got to easy for the engine to overcome them and they just got weaker due to operator error. Going to try and readjust them this weekend. I have got to get the new release handle on. Sucks pulling on the rod.

Good luck. I did mine a while back but my cables were working fine so I did not replace. I do however need to adjust them again. Broke my release handle the other day and now all I have to figure out is how pop the little rod out of the the release under the dash. Sure is hard to get my big hands in there.

I have a steering brace on mine now for 160 maybe 175k miles. Still have the oe steering box with no leaks. I noticed in your pictures BBD that you have 17" wheels and that helps with you clearance on the steering set up almost as much as 0 offset wheels.

Look over on Rock auto, they have some good prices on rotor and pads. They have the rebuild kits for the calipers also. Maybe you have a soft line failing and it is not letting pressure off of the one side.

When my second went I had to pay somebody to do it. He came out to the job. I did not know you could beat something that hard without breaking something. He did get it off but he was not gentle at all and I paid him quickly.

If your wheels have a 0* off set it gives you about 1 3/4" more clearance than the stockers. My 96 had American Racing bullet hole rims. The stood proud of the fenders about 1 1/2", That would have my ball joints clear of the wheels. Pretty much like your previous picture.

I just pulled off 2 front ujoints 14.5 years old with 377k miles on them. One had 2 cups dry with bearings broken into crumbs and two with grease in them. The other still had grease in all four and were tight. Both non grease able factory joints.

Maybe this will give you and idea of what I see under my truck. Stock rims with 265's.

A lot more room than mine. I will get a pic and post it later. Bet I dont have a quarter inch of clearance for the top of the TRE or the bottom of the TRE.

Looking at my stock wheels there is so little clearance for the stock set up that I believe the T steering would be a problem. Zero* offset wheels should off set that problem. Larger diameter wheels would accomplish the same thing.

I put a rubber mat in mine when I bought it so stuff would not slide around on the bed. It worked fine and protected the bed well. Sure it is scratched up and the sidewalls are beat up some but it is not rusted out anywhere. The only real dent in the flat part of the bed is where my 5th wheel came out of the hitch one day leaving parking lot. It landed on an empty propane tank and dented the bed. Saved the bed rails though. Not a scratch on them. Propane tank was toast however.

From my limited research anything 5% and below does NOT have to be labeled. Also from speaking to some of the Love's people they get a rebate from the Feds of $0.50 a gallon for the bio they use. The number thrown out during the conversation was they received neat $110,000,000 last year for selling bio. Zeros left in on purpose. That encourages any fuel station to sell it. Stations out my way are either marked 15% or not at all. My truck does like it and I have cut back on 2 stroke to one half quart to the tank. Though I still think I am getting straight #2 sometimes.

Time is a hard thing to find to work on the truck. The brakes were going to be easy until I saw that u joint. But now all is new except those ball joints. Steering is still pretty good considering the ball joints and tie rod ends all have about 100k on them. The way I figure 500k would be something, but all I need is about 460k to beat you back from the moon. Many thanks to your site and all the members who have helped me get as far as I have. Could not have done it all without ya'll.

The cheapie did work in mine and stopped the surging but the 222 code would not go away. I bought one for the same reason as you are thinking. Just was not sure whether it was doing more harm than good.

I have a little experience with the ebay apps. I bought one for $16. Not sure what part # or brand I got. I was not having dead pedal issues but was having surging issues and the low volt code for the apps. Diagnostics was telling the apps(Timbo in my case) was bad. I went the Ebay route just to see. Installed and sure enough the surging went away and all seemed good. I ordered a Timbo because I did not trust the part. The bag it came had a paper with nothing but Chinese on it. Any way before I got to install the Timbo my check engine light comes on with a p0222 code. I cleared it and it came back as soon as I started the engine. Tried it multiple times with the same results. So I put the Timbo in and check engine light stays off and the surging is back. My problem has to be in the wiring I figure. I still dont know if I would trust the cheap on. That being said I thought at the time for no more money than $20 it was worth a try. I have no idea whether it was causing any damage anywhere.

Cool. A place to plug in the amp. Do you think you could get an electric potato?

I dont have a write but just got thru doing it. It is pretty straight forward once you get the front end apart. You really need a good press to get them out. I used a ball joint press and it was just big enough to get around the joint. Be glad to share my experience but did not take any pictures. Depending on your vise an extra pair of hands helps greatly.

Feel the love. NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO any thing. Wait, I could just sit out by the driveway and drink all the beer and whiskey till you get tired of hearing me sing. I am very happy that him and I got to do this. He also helped me swap out my 6 speed several years back. Him and his 2 brothers, my son, and my brother and real family gathering. It is good to be around them. I have 9 grand children. Due to my work and two of the my children in the military, we have not been able to spend alot of time together. The distances they were away and timing on me being at home. Just did not work out well. Chandlers mom made extra effort to get back home just to be sure we had some relationship with them. On my last job I got to stay with my daughter and my 2 youngest granddaughters for 5 months. It has been a great year for me and grandchildren. On top of that Chandler is going to go to Community college and study auto mechanics. Hopefully he will learn alot about electronics and be able to teach me a thing or twelve. Lord knows I need the help. I never knew my grandfathers, one died before I was born and the other not long after. My maternal grandmother lived with us until I was about 15 I guess. While her and I did not work on cars together we did have a special relationship. She is the one who helped me understand my parents were not being hard on me they were just being parents. Great lady that I have many fond memories of. She was born around 1882 and her perspective of things came from whole different time. As far as the truck goes, we did put in new unit bearings. You can see it shining behind the hub nut. I bought 2 of a old member here for $150. As I remember he sold his truck and wanted rid of them. No marking on either of them so I hope they hold up. Both oe ones failed at 216k miles and they ones I replaced them with had no marking either. I paid a whole lot more that $150 for one of those. Thought my next job was starting on the 7-5 and did not do the ball joints. Hope I dont regret that. I just found out the job got pushed another week. It was all back together by then.

The power steering mentioned above works great. I just replaced all this on my truck a few days ago. The first time about 7 years ago was the worse. I beat them silly and put puller on it and ripped it in half enough to get the knuckle off and press it out. Not the best way to do it. If they are the oe they will be stuck fast. X 2 on the Spicer joints. My originals lasted almost 375k miles. One failed and one was still good.

I would say try the grommets first and see if that fixes it. Or try something else first and see if that fixes it. Then you would know what the problem was. FWIW my needle valve has some excess fuel on the line to the gauge and causes no problems. If you do all of what you want at once there will still be a mystery and it will drive you crazy.

You dont really need a potato field. The one off the tractor trailer used as a landscape stone would do nicely.

While I still have the stock alloy wheels on mine they are for the 265's and not the 245's. Mine are 16 X 8 but I am not sure if the wheels differ in size for the 245's.

If it busts right off maybe you found your problem. If it still hard starts then swap the grommets and see what happens. I saw the picture you posted of the return tee. Mine was wet when my problems started, yours looked fine in the picture. But it is easier for the air to get in than the fuel to get out, Mine has been fine since replacing the sealing washers and grommets except for the maybe half dozen times in my brothers driveway. While it did bug me some I just let it go and for some reason it stopped. Now if I could have gotten her to fix her own brakes and ujoints, that would be special.

I still think you have a little air leak somewhere, just my opinion. But unplugging the pump would help narrow it down. That pretty much what mine was doing at my brothers house. As far as the return tee, as I remember there is enough play in the rubber lines to install the grommets with out removing any lines. The tough part is getting in there to do it.

I remember when I first used it and noticed the engine was quieter. The looks that I got when I told my non diesel friends a family that it ran quieter were priceless. Not a soul believed the quieter part. Thanks to all who had a hand it. How could you not trust a man who keeps a chord of wood in his toilet. Thanks DW.