dripley

Did you ever get us a picture of said great mileage vehicle? If so I missed it.

I am by far no ac expert but here is my worth. The diy cans will work, you just dot have a way to check the high and low side pressures. Some of the cans come with a pressure gauge that you can observe the low pressure side. You need manifold gauges to read both sides. I dont see anything wrong with shooting some in there and get your compressor stopped from short cycling. If you have a copy of the FSM there is alot of good info about the AC system. In short they will work you just dont know what is going on in there. Plus you do not have to use the whole can. Maybe some one a little more knowledgeable will add to this. And be careful the high side pressure of these things can hit 300 psi or so. I just got mine up and running after about 4 years of it not working, long story that i want get into. I replaced my high side line and the accumulator, pulled vacuum on the system and it would not hold. Finally had to shoot some freon in there and found the leak. Got it fixed and now have cold air, not ice cold but cold. I bought a set of HF manifold gauges and vacuum pump, $50 and $150 respectively and they seem to work fine. It seems I may still have a problem since I have low low side pressure and high high side pressure. Yesterday I had good low side and slightly high high side pressure, but today a accidentally vented freon from the high pressure side and that is when the readings changed. So I am going to add a little more later and see what happens. Not trying to hijack this is all for another thread.

Out of curiosity @leathermaneod will they not take your rebuilt as a core?

Thanks @BBHD, that would clear up the confusion. Mine was like your uncle's.

I have heard that the synthetic is not as good as the dino. I would have to defer to someone that knows better than me for the why. As for me the dino is cheaper and easy to get and for the most part I am a dino guy anyway.

The only picture I did not get was the last one. All the others a pretty much what I dealt with when replacing my in tank pump with the AD. I never had to deal with a connector like you show in the last picture. My in tank pump was connected to a power source to the relay, the oe harness for the lift pump connected to the relay also for the trigger and then a harness from the relay to the AD to supply power for it. I do see two wire looms in the pic. One seems to have on wire going to the connector and it looks factory. There is another that runs off perpendicular to the connector. I will have to take your word on them being connected. I dealt with nothing like that on mine.

I dont remember mine going to any other factory connector other than the lift pump harness. How is it connected into that plug? Every thing in that connector looks old. The only new wires are at the top of the picture and I assume they are for the FASS,

The fuel tank needs no vacuum. Sometimes the vent will clog and cause vacuum as the fuel is pulled out causing issues. You dont want vacuum in the tank.

How is your pressure drop at WOT. Thats the other important number. You are trying for 14# or higher. As far as the 2 stroke, nothing fancy needed there. Ash less is the key. Many of us run the Super Tech TCW-3 from Wal mart. It fits the bill just fine.

Do you have a snubber or something like it to protect the sender?

Nope. Only when it is muddy. While some of my job sites can get very dusty I am not working the truck once I get there. Most sites for a CFA are only an acre and there is no need to drive around it. Now the Love's I just built was on 24 acres I did drive around it quite a bit. I dont seem to have suffered any ill consequences from the K&N other than an oily turbo. I only cleaned 3 maybe 4 times the whole time I had it. When I cleaned it I just used a pan full of cleaner and rinsed it with a garden hose without a nozzle on it. The media is pretty delicate. My wifes 1st Dakota came with one. She got on oil change on the road once and the place did her a favor and cleaned it. They washed it and then used compressed air to dry it. That was the last one she ever had. The filter media does not stand up to compressed air. Dont get me wrong I will never run one again, but dont really have any regrets. Only time will tell.

I thought we were trying to disconnect the fass to see if you were over pressuring the pump. Sorry about that. My old in tank harness is hanging on a wall in my shop. It came out when I ditched the in tank pump. There is nothing it is needed for anymore. IIRC it is very similar to my AD harness, functioned the same any way anyway. Any way after the AD install the harness does nothing, it has nothing to control anymore. Once I disconnected it from the pump and the oe harness the only other wire I remember was for power. I dont remember where it was connected, I just took it loose.

If you disconnect the oe harness that ran the oe carter pump from the fass harness the pump will not run. Unless the fass system does not use the oe harness for a relay trigger. Without the trigger the relay will not engage power to the pump. My AD harness has a fuse in it and I am assuming the fass harness has one also. Pull the fuse and the pump will not run. This would be the easiest way on my truck. You can do either one and the pump will not run. There is no need to cut or disconnect the power supply.

Just pull the fuse in the Fass harness or unplug the the lead from the ECM. Either one will shut the pump down. When I removed my in tank pump I pulled the old harness that connected it to the ECM. Your old one should not be connected to anything anymore.

I dont think so. A broken vacuum fitting or line in the vacuum system will cause the above. Might not be obvious either.

I would have thought the hard part was figuring out the power steering vent cap was causing the brake lights to stay on.

Well they got them from $62 apiece to $365 also if that interest you. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1999,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1377569,brake/wheel+hub,wheel+bearing+&+hub+assembly,1636

Thats one for the memory banks there. Glad you found the problem. You need to get that in a trouble shooting guide somewhere.

Nice ride and good find. Heated and chilled cup holders, now that is fancy.

I think I would rather pull a 20 year old oe hub bearing as chase electrical gremlins. That or just put my hand on an anvil and hit with BFH.

That sucks. FWIW Rock auto has Timken bearings for just under $200..http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1117810&cc=1377569&jsn=462 Dont know if that helps but it beats $300 apiece.

I think mine sees somewhere between 7 and 10 psi when cranking. It has been a while since its done it so thats the best I remember. Disconnect the lift pump and see if it busts right off. That would confirm to much pressure for starting.

Mine is not HF but it is Auto Zone. Maybe a notch above I dont know. I have put a lot stress on it with a cheater bar and never felt like it was going to break, but the thought is still there when you load it up. You still have to do some beating like Mike describes. It worked real good on my front u joints. Still had to do some beating just to shock things loose.

Same here.

Mine will do the same just out of the blue every once in a while. I just dont pay it any attention it happens so little. I know thats not what you want to hear, it is just how I choose deal with it.