dripley

Good to hear. I used Mike's video as well. Made the job much easier.

Good for both of you. A little distraction never hurt any of us.

Aesthetics was another reason I liked the ISSPRO. I have some green lenses to put on so they will match at night.

Well as you can see there are many choices. Now you get to do some research and figure out what you are going to do with the truck. I would figure at least as much as the EJWA will do. Mechanical or electric will give you the fuel that you need. It is going to end up being a personal choice as mention before. As always there is more than one way to skin a cat.

A 150 gph pump is plenty big enough for the EDGE. No need for anything bigger. Knowing what clutch you have would be a good thing to know. I will add this. I put a Banks Stinger plus on mine at 100k miles. The chip was rated for 75 rwhp. I changed the clutch at about 255k miles. This was the stock clutch. I pulled a 35' Cardinal 5th wheel at about 15k. Now I only pull about 3k miles year but I never slipped that clutch. I pulled in the flat lands and the mountains out here on the east coast. I would think with what the PO was pulling and he had no issues you should be OK. Never hurts to check though.

I have the basic Isspro EV1 gauges. Mechanical fuel pressure and boost gauge. I have had the FP gauge for 5 or 6 years with no issues. The boost gauge I have had for 3 or 4 years with no issues also. I have electric pyro and tranny temp gauges for 3 or 4 years also. Had an issue with the tranny temp gauge. For about a month when I started the truck it would read 130* then run at near 220* while driving. Not sure what happened it has since settled back down and reads good now. Other than that I have been very happy with them. They are good gauges that fit my budget. Bought them thru Vulcan Performance, a vendor here. I have seen some colored gauges but for the life of me could not tell you what brand they were. I think I have seen some in pictures here. Mike used to have a Dipricol, out of buisness now, FP gauge that the face was colored but no more I think.

Thats him. My favorite potato head. I am gathering parts. The first thing I bought was a 5 gallon bucket of orange hand cleaner and 4 50 count packs of shop towels.

I am running an ADII 165 gph rated pump. I have run it with a Banks 75 hp chip, stock and with the Edge comp. Never had any issues with the fuel. I used this pump mainly in case I ever did anything crazy with truck and also because it came with a kit to remove my intank pump and modify the fuel basket in the tank.

Well Look on the bright side, at least you can see your oil pan. Mine is a little oily. Got some leakage going on on mine. Saving all this up for my visit with my old buddy Mikey.

For a stock truck the DDRP will work. But if you decide to tap the pump and use the edge you might wish you had spent the extra money. Unless you have better will power than me, the temptation will be great. Just something to think about.

The wiring diagrams are in the articles section. Go to articles, 2nd gen, engine, eletcrical in that order and you can choose your year vehicle. The shielding for the alternator is masking stray ac voltage. The problem is still there and bad on the electronics. The article mentioned above covers it pretty well.

Check the ECM connection and the vp connector also. Clean them up and put a little dielectric grease on them. My VP connection tried to work itself loose not long ago. The little slide that holds it in place had worked itself loose. I had no issues just noticed it one day while under the hood. Does the truck shut down every time you turn on the lights?

The oe parts came with no grease fittings. Mine lasted well over 200k. You can still buy them today.

The different brands and tread patterns wont matter except in handling. Unless you are racing around you probably would not notice any difference. I should have stated circumference instead of diameter. Air pressure could make a big difference in diameter measured on the weighted vehicle. Bill seems to know a lot more on this than I, so I will defer to his expertise.

The diameter of the tire is what will hurt it. They should be close to the same. They could be different tire brands. I believe some difference is OK but dont know how much. I had to replace a tire once on a set with maybe 15k on it once. DT told it would not hurt the diff. I ran it until the other 3 were gone with no apparent harm. That was about 12 years or so ago. I am sure someone else will know for sure.

I just had to buy a set my self. Tore the sidewall out of one on the job the other day. The bright side is Discount tire will replace it. Still had to buy the other 3. They still had a little life left in them.

You will be surprised when you put a new set of tire on there. Night and day. I used to have a S-10 chevy with manual steering. New tire I could palm the steering wheel. by the time they were wearing out it took two hands to steer it at low speeds.

I would have to agree with Bill on that one. It took me some getting used to after buying mine. Then I go home and the wife makes me drive her old Dakota and the Saturn she has now. Both with R&P steering. What takes 3" on my wheel takes a 1/2" on hers. So much difference.

Happy you found the problem. I would have offered help but I know nothing about autos.

I have my AD165 plumbed thru the oe canister. It would be fairly simple to mount a fass or AD direct replacement on the block and plumb a simple by pass in the fuel line. AD dies, flip the valves, and swap the plug and you are in business again.

Both of mine came tapped. Dont remember if both are the same, but i put one high and one low. Los for the temp probe and high for filling.

I would turn it which ever way it needs to go to push the bottom of the axle towards the front of the truck. You will in essence make the lower control arm longer. Not sure which way to turn it since I have never done it.

I developed a clunk in my front end right after changing my shocks. More so happened on a bumpy road than when turning however. The shocks were fine so I started thinking control arm bushings but a front brake job to precedent over the clunk. When I got it a part turned out my front passenger u joint was gone and the drivers side not far behind it. Might be a long shot but pretty easy to check. @jmarsh223 What brand of parts did you use rebuilding your front end? There is a lot a cheap stuff out there and the 00-02's 4X4's are harsh on ball joints and track bars. If you would go to your profile and fill in your signature with your vehicle info it would help every one know what you are dealing with. Not sure which one you are dealing with unless I missed it above somewhere.

You want to adjust them with the bottom of the axle as far to the front end as possible. That will max out the positive camber. Here is a simple explanation I found. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=4

I will be replacing mine soon and I like options.