dripley

Bring it on. Cluck cluck. I can handle the chicken.

I dont think so. If the little connector is broken or cracked chances are the door is not indexed properly anymore. The heater treater deal comes with what you need including instructions on how to index it. It has been so long since I did mine I dont remember the process. It is probably spelled out pretty good on their website.

Not behind the glove box. It is on one side of the tranny hump. Cant remeber which at the moment. it is PITA to get to, but if that is your problem it is worth the trouble. You need one of those right angle screw driver thingys to get the screws out.

The radiator is easy to remove. I removed mine on the side of the interstate when the oe blew up. This was due to owner abuse more than anything. On the bright side I did get to inspect the interior of the radiator and it was new looking. And for @Haggar, mine still hangs there also.

Look herehttp://www.heatertreater.net/?gclid=CJbTxIOSt84CFZNZhgod4DQC2Q There is some good info on the blend door. If yours is still oe they have a part that will help fix it if it is broken. Mine was and I used this to fix it while I had the HVAC box out.

When mine was new I never could figure why the cops were not pulling me over to see if I was drunk. Constant steering input was needed to keep it going straight unless you were on a major highway. It still wandered but many times I could just let go of the wheel and it would track straight as a string. The steering was the only thing i did not like about the truck. It drives better now than when new. I do have very little play in the wheel and much less steering input is required as compared to new. I do have steering brace. While it did help some, it was not the fix all as it was claimed.

A build up of foreign matter on the evaporator will reduce the temps. No GOOD way to check that though unless you pull the HVAC box.That would be last on my list of things to check and if only a few degrees off would not get checked unless something failed inside of it like mine did.

Not sure where you are but I am in Richmond VA right now and the humidity was 85% yesterday and near 75% now. She is spitting the water out.

Your not kidding about the water. I vacuumed out all that i could last night, not dry but no standing water. Drove 15 miles to Sunbelt rentals and the carpet was full again with some water on top of it. Got a hose on it now we sill see how it works.

Thanks. I bought some tubing to put a piece on and see if that will get it going down. Probably did not put it back on after fixing the HVAC box.

I still carry full coverage on mine for the same reason the same reasons a deej and am thinking you do. I have not however looked to see what mine is worth with 380k on it.

You probably want to check the radiator for external blockage if you are still running the factory crankcase vent on the front of the engine. You would be surprised at how clogged your radiator can get with oil puking out of it. You really cant see it just by looking thru the fan shroud. A mirror would help. This could easily be causing you issue. A lot of folks here are still running the factory radiators with no issues. And welcome to the forum by the way.

The max might 60 psi but there is range to work and you dont have to see the max. You can be at the low side and still be good. I am going to check mine again when I get home. My low pressures were near the low side and the high pressure was near the high side. It did seem to vary on me some. The pressures are in a range and not just a dead specific number. I dont think you are going to see 60 psi on the low side unless its 110* out side.

I have to agree. Man with wood in toilet likes new truck.

Out of curiosity how were you checking pressure while riding down the road? With out me looking in the FSM what ambient temp do you need to see for 60 psi on the low side?

Welcome to the forum. I have to agree with Me. Get the tranny ready for the power first. Your sig did not show up so if it is the original it probably wont like much extra put thru it especially if you have over sized tires on it. Hate to see you have to build because you blew it up. If you know someone that has a Smarty maybe they will let you borrow to adjust for tire size..

Were just idling or did you have the rpm up? I agree with what Mike says. Even if you are a bit shy is not cooling you off? I guess I have done with out mine so long that 60* air tickled the crap out me.

I knew what the black a green were, you can see them with the glove box out. The green goes the the actuator on the vent at right end. It looked green to me any way. But now here is the rub. I stopped at Auto Zone 15 minutes ago and picked up some vacuum hose and tubing. I took the hose outside to be sure it was the right size. Disconnected the line and the hose was the right size. So went back in, paid for it and got in the truck. Fired it off and low and behold I have cold air blowing on my face. Dont know what I did, I have had that joint apart 3 or 4 times with no difference but now it works. Sitting here idleing with 42* blowing in my face. On another note, while scoping things out I found my passenger floor board swimming in water today. Climbed under the truck thinking the drain is clogged. Rammed some wire in there and nothing. Pulled the carpet back and nothing was wet 2 or 3 inches above the floor. Is there supposed to be a fitting on the end of the drain tube? It almost looks like the water coming out is being directed back in to the cab around the outside of the drain tube. It is just facing forward into the wind. When the truck is sitting still there is a lot of water coming out of it.

I have no slack coming out of the firewall. Unless I disconnect it from the multi point connector and try and pull it them. It does run along the cowl with the big wiring harnesses almost from the ABS module. The little manifold it ties into is right there near the connectors for those harnesses. Looking at @Mopar1973Man HVAC box removal article I can see the vacuum line running along the back of the box with the green tube for the outside air actuator. It does not appear to be connected to anything but the multi point connector. Now if I can just contort myself enough I will unplug it and see if there is any vacuum there. If not I will just try and fish another line in there. If this old one broke twice, I think I need to be shod of it.

There is no slack to pull. If there was I used it up when it broke during the the dash install. I dont know what else that line could run. There is another on the drivers side that runs down toward the tranny/transfer case which I am assuming runs the CAD. It just seems strange that they would run the the vacuum all the way across the fire wall then thru the firewall and back across to the HVAC controls.

I did not think to suck on the line. Something about that dont sound right. I does however sound like a decent way to see if is a leak. Have to get some more hose, no way my punkin head will get in there. Does the vacuum pump produce enough vacuum to run every thing when the line to one accessory broken? I have looked at that page but never could find a schematic or drawing showing the routing of the vacuum lines. Connection 3 shows this being the vacuum source. Just not sure if this line feeds any thing else before it gets to the connector. It would appear to me that it operates as you are thinking.

i got my ac working again the other day but the controls are stuck in the defrost mode. I know the controls need vacuum to operate and all my other accessories work, 4wd and the exhaust brake. I have vacuum where the line goes thru the firewall at the evaporator. A good while back when I replaced the evaporator I noticed the hard line going thru the fire wall had cracked and I replaced a section with vacuum hose and have vacuum to that point. I figure while installing the new drier or high pressure line I most likely fractured the hard line going thru the fire wall. Does this hard line go straight to the multi point connector for the controls? I could not quite contort myself enough to check for vacuum at that point. My thought is just to run some new line thru the firewall and to that connector. It seems to me that should work as long as that line is not connected to something else before the multi point connector.

The overload spring sets on top off the spring pack. It has a good bit more arch to it and bears on stops mounted to the outside of the frame rails. It is separate of the spring pack. Mine came with the camper package which the overloads were part of. I guess I am not familiar with everything your truck has such as leveling spacers for the bigger tires and such.

Does your truck have the overload springs in the rear? Mine sits level 6k on the rear axle but I do have the springs.

I like the rare Dana 80 with the disk brakes. I wish him luck but who knows.