dripley

I am on my 3rd set of ATP's and got 65k and near that much out of the first 2. The only time I thought they were noisy at all was near the end of there life. Very satisfied with them.

10+ years ago when I bought my first set of tires from DT I ran over a piece of rebar at work and ripped a large hole right thru the tread of a new Michelin LTX. Bought the tire in NJ and tore it up in FL. Went to the local place in FL expecting to buy a new tire and they looked me up and that when I found out I had the free replacement. It did cost me about $40 but I walked out with a new tire. DT does stand behind the tires and products they sell. I am sure they are not the only one that does.

I too use Discount Tire but go to the local branch. I also purchase their free replacement certificates at about $25 a tire. It is a little pricey but has paid off for me. You have to trash at least 3/4 of a tire a set to be worth the money. For some reason I have been able to accomplish that for some years now. Cut the sidewall open on one just the other day and they gave me a mostly free tire and the tire was down to the wear bars and along with the rest they all needed replacing any way.. It is not for every one and I probably have just broken even on that part of the deal. They have always backed there tires up for me no matter what. I have never tried the online purchase however.

that is a fuuny-un right there. i dont care what you say,

just assuming here but if the wire fits the connector he should be good providing all the strands go in.

Just thinking out loud, but if those 12 gauge wires fit in the 14 gauged but connector I dont think it is going to hurt any thing. I cant believe there is that much difference between the tow except for diameter off the hole you put the wires in. I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong.

Mike is right on about the parts houses and testing. There machines are capable but the operators hit and miss at best. They have told me in the past "It is new in the box what could wrong with it". Then mention AC noise and the looks you get are priceless. As a member that is electrically challenged the test for AC voltage is easy. You just need a good meter to do it with. If you plan on keeping the truck for a while it is a worth while investment. Diagnostics can cost as much as replacing the parts.

A lot of good discussion here. Speaking as some one who has not done a lot mods to my truck, the power mods I did just for that, more power. All of them said I "could" see mileage gains. The banks package netted no mileage gains but added good power. The RV 275's bumped the power and did give me a near 5% mpg gain. Then adding the comp gave another near 5% gain. Pretty much a win win in my book. All of this is based on highway mileage. Since my truck is sometimes my office it idles to much to get an accurate in town mileage. I never expected the fuel savings to pay for the mods. It was just a cost for more power that I thought was worth the money. The reason I went with the Banks over the Comp many years ago was that it was NOT adjustable. That was just not something I was interested in at the time. I like simplicity. But when the Banks started crapping out and I could not seem to get any help from them with it, I decided the Comp would be the way to go. The adjustability turned out to better than I thought it would be back then and i do like it. When I bought the Comp I had no idea the Quad was even an option or I would have looked into it. i will be interested in where this goes. I for the most am a pretty simple guy. It is interesting to see all the numbers ya'll post, dyno or no dyno and the different opinions on the same subjects. This is what keeps me here. Ya'll have all helped with keeping this truck under my butt for the past 14 years 11 months and 384k miles. She still runs and pulls better than when I bought it. My thanks to all you for the help. And just to keep me honest part of my compensation at work is when I buy fuel I turn it in on my expense report. So any money I have put into mods and saved fuel all is for their benefit. Including the $5500 extra it cost for the Cummins engine. My old truck was a 96 2500 with a V10 in it. The Cummins alone netted them a 225% boost in towing mileage and a 70% boost in highway mileage.

I wish I had this option when I bought my comp. It would have been nice for a comparison. I have been following the threads on the Quad and it sure does look good. Be interested in how it works out for you.

I have used the heat shrink but connectors but never knew they came solder. I will have to order some to have on hand for the future.

You aint missing much with those gauges. Thats the most gauges I have seen on a 3 gauge pod. 384k on mine but not the VP.

I believe that is the port I used for the oil pressure switch for the booster pump for my fuel system many years ago. It is easy to access.

Do you know what your fuel pressure is like? The 216 and 1689 together are not looking good for the VP. Like @TFaoro says read up on the codes and do some testing.

Wish I could have helped but I have rebuilt neither brand.

It is pretty amazing what these trucks will pull. Glad you enjoyed your first trip. Another vote for the trailer brakes not being adjusted right.

I got 6 sitting on shelf in my shop. Does that count?

Not sure what it is. I could just be leaking at the gasket on the turbo. Mine is weeping and has worked it's way down the hose.

I get rattle in mine around 1750 to 1850 rpm when the engine is cold, <150* or so, under medium throttle. Never had this before adding the Comp. Not sure it is the same thing or not. Just putting it out here.

Vulcan and DAP both have pumps with a new PSG and are both top notch vendors. Just read the ads.

It does not fluctuate while in use, just when the high idle is turned on and off. Mike has a video of his doing it. It is on the first page about half way down in this thread. Not sure what year trucks it is true for. Seems to be alot of discussion here and there about it.

Me too. Beautiful country.

Not sure what you can do in line with the oe sensor but there is another outlet about midway on the block near the oil pan on the drivers side. I had an oil pressure switch there for my old fuel booster pump I ran years ago. You could use that for sure. My scan gauge II does not read the sensor. I think the sensor only puts out there is pressure and not how much. That is my understanding anyway.

I dont by much thru the dealer unless I have to have it quick. Not always possible on a 15 year old truck though. The bolts can be had thru few other places from near what you paid on down. Not sure how they compare with the dealer part.

Pretty much. It is tied to the ECT sensor and maybe the IAT, not sure how. You can really see it if you have a high idle switch. Turn it on with the engine running and cold. When the sensor gets fooled to think it is warm the oil pressure will drop as the temp gauge rises. That is on a cold engine being fooled by the high idle switch.

I have never done this repair or adjustment but after 15 years I would not expect the bolts to just loosen with out some resistance and possible breakage. I would like to throw all the caster at it and see what happens.