dripley

I did all of mine too. The only bad thing is that was I did it about 120k or more ago and I am hoping they will last a good bit longer.

I understand what you are saying. I have heard a lot stories about the quick connects leaking on the fuel lines. Pretty surprised I have not had any issues. I developed an intermittent miss under hard throttle about 6 months ago and was figuring that might be the cause. It just quit a couple weeks later and has not come back. So who knows. I too have had my fair share of leaky air quick connects leak. They are pretty cheap and easy to fix.

Aint that something. I will be interested in how BC handles this.

Not even sure I should say this but I still have mine on after 5 or 6 years. Knock wood.

Yes on the steering adjustment. Adjust it till the wheel is straight. I need to do this to mine. Just park it with the wheels straight and unlock the steering wheel. How are your tie rod ends? Get someone to get in the truck and turn the wheel back a forth while you look under the front end. You should be able to see/hear it.

ASD relay on its way out maybe? It would be easy to swap out and see. just guessing.

The ADII has a regulator. I have only used mine twice I think since I installed it. The Raptor pump use the regulator too. The fuel line might only need some polishing. It will be interesting to see what you turn up on the return tee. Those little grommets seem awful pricey for what they are.

Do tell more about the boots you are using.

The threads on the injector nut do not actually seal anything. They hold the injector line to the cross over tube and the crossover tube in the head. The seal is between the injector line and the crossover tube. That joint needs to be nice a clean. I have always cleaned mine up with a scotch brite when ever I had the off. Still have had some leaking issues before. Loosening a re tightening has worked, re cleaning has worked, super torqueing has worked. Never found any cut dry method that worked for me just kept messing with it till it stopped. The line could be damaged. You would have to pull and see. It does not seem to be a common problem. The return tee does take grommets. They are like a piece of rubber hose or fuel line. Squared edged and maybe 3/8" long. The fit in the tee and the return line into them then the nut just compresses them together to form a seal. Genos has them. You can find the part number in the parts look up tool in the articles section. I think they are pretty pricey for what they are.

I watched an oil change place filling my 96 V10 with oil with the pan drain plug out once. I called it to their attention and they replaced it. Always wondered what would have happen had I not seen it.

I have seen it. It is an extraordinary documentary. I followed the space program when I was a kid. It was such cool stuff. From the Mercury program right thru Apollo 17. I would urge anyone to go to one of the space centers and see the capsules and lunar landing modules these guys flew in. These guys had some balls. Kennedy space center has a Saturn V rocket on display laying on its side and separated in its stages. Huge does not do it justice. It is awe inspiring. There are 2 more one in Huntsville AL and Johnson Space center in Texas. A worth while day trip if you are near one. Still boggles my mind that we took so long to have a rocket to get to the ISS when we had the Saturn V in 1969. They also have one of the space shuttles in a very good display at Kennedy. It is tilted on about a 30* angle with the bay doors open and a raised floor allows you to really see into the cargo bay and you can walk underneath it also. Makes me want to go again.

Ouch!! Retail does suck. You better get to driving if you are gonna use up that 100k in a year.

From everything I have read and personally experienced when having them tested it does not surprise me. A lot of folks who do the test do not have clue. The hook it up and if the machine says OK then it is OK. I will defer to others more knowledgeable than me for volt meter recommendation. I am somewhat electrically insufficient. As far as it being random, I dont know. Have you ever gone thru your grounds on the electrical system? Crappy grounds, weak batteries, and dirty connections will make these truck do crazy things. I dont know how electrically inclined you are but you are about to find out. I am weak on the wiring. Not afraid to tackle most anything else at all, but the wiring stumps alot.

Did they test it for ac voltage and if so what did they see Thats where the problem lies. Get your batteries tested. weak batteries will cause issues also. Replace them both even if only one test bad. You are only as good as your weakest battery.

I know you did not direct the question to me but the 02"s did not come with the inner fender liner. Might be true for a couple years earlier too, not sure.

Glad to hear you got it covered. What did a new Cummins pump cost minus the shipping?

I would not worry about the squat you had either. It is not from being overloaded unless you put all the furnishing and a few sand bags in the nose of that trailer.

By non verified do you mean pending codes? The SG said no codes or pending codes? I have had the 500 code in the past after spinning the rear tires, but did spin the tires any where yesterday. Only got the CEL light then and not the ABS/brake light. I will check that connector this evening after work. Is it located on top of the inner fender well or underneath it? I have seen pictures of it but never had my eyes on it.

A running engine would help, probably should have mentioned that. Not sure why it works now with just the key on. But like you I would take it. I just fixed mine after about 4 years of the AC not working. Not sure how I did it. I am spoiled already.

It is a vacuum issue. The vacuum system runs the AC/heater controls. The supply line for this comes thru the firewall behind the area you were working on but behind the HVAC box. There is also a green vacuum line on the top of the box above the blower. It connects to a solenoid that operates the max ac vent. Remove your glove box and you can see it plainly. It is possible you knocked that off and the vacuum is bleeding off. This has happened to mine but it was the supply line coming thru the firewall. If the green line is not loose check the black one that goes thru the fire wall just above the turbo. Disconnect the joint and put you finger over the vacuum tube and see if you can feel vacuum there. Be careful because the tube will be come brittle over the years and it might crack. If you have no vacuum at that point, start tracing it back towards the vacuum pump. The fittings deteriorate over the yeas also.

Well seems I am the latest victim of the ABS and brake light coming on.Came on sometime yesterday while driving around. I checked for codes with my Scan Gauge and nothing. Rechecked and nothing. I used the key trick and got P0500, which made sense to me. The SG still does not see it so it wont clear it. Guess i will check the connector and then replace it if all seems well with the wires. Still surprised the SG does not see it.

Thats them. I know when I hook up and load with the 5th wheel mine sits level and I was surprised that the travel trailer you hauled made you look a little squatted. The leveling spacers upfront explains it though. I have none and thats why mine sits level. When I put the 5th wheel on it goes to the overload springs enough to engage them then stops. Since yours is level unloaded it makes it look squatted but it is not due to to much weight just your ride height with the spacers. The pic is mine with about 6k on the rear axle. i am also riding on smaller tires than you so I understand why you have the spacers.

I used a heater core from Rock Autohttp://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3424773&cc=1440064&jsn=10744&jsn=10744 Pretty sure that was the one I used. It has been in the truck for 3.5 maybe 4 years with not issue. For the evaporator I did use thishttp://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=814102&cc=1440064&jsn=10749 I got tight on cash and then a little leary of the AC part of the work so it sat idle util the other week. It is holding up just fine but only has a couple weeks use on it. Quite a cost difference, but dash removal is a bit involved. Of course $800+ for the parts would suck big time. But since I have less than $100 in mine one more dash removal might still be a lot cheaper.

Pretty sure it is 3/8 on the tensioner and a cheater bar about 2' long works fine. The space is a little narrow to get the wrench on. I put the wrench on then slid the cheater over it. The bolts holding the pump were easy to get to as I remember. Got a pump from AA or AZ or some where similar. Pretty much had to take what I could get at the time. That was 3 or 4 years ago and it still works fine.

I would definitely check. As I mentioned previously, thats why I bought mine from BC. It came with new electronics. They were the only one I found then that used new ones. But they are expensive.