dripley

Easy now big fella. I dont disagree with you today anymore than we talked about it a couple days ago. Just dont want to tell some one to do something that might have repercussions. Just want them to be able to make their own decisions.

I found this and a lot of other stuff about ithttp://www.caranddriver.com/features/speedometer-scandal. i did not realize there was as much leeway in the accuracy of these devices.

Well thats the rub. The EPA frowns upon that. Not to mention if your system is pretty full just popping something open is going to release a lot of pressure quickly.

If it is full of freon you do need a recovery machine and they are pricey or have someone do it. Mine had leaked down so I just opened it up. The recharging equipment is not as bad price wise. I have $200 in the vacuum pump and gages.

You wont have to pull a vacuum on it unless you opened the system unless you are worried about a leak. Cant remember whether you did or not. It is still not a bad idea if you want to start all over. I had to with mine since it had been open for a good while. Unfortunately I had a leak and could not find it without pressurizing the system and then after finding the leak I started over again.

Mine was banged up too but mainly at the bumper. Took a HF fin comb to it and it looks better but not as good as yours @leathermaneod. That took a lot of patience.

Wish I had something to offer but I am unqualified.

My thanks to @IBMobile and @Mopar1973Man for all the useful info too. It has helped getting mine going again.

Some of the tests are done with the connector disconnected. The step he lists is to see if the ECM is sending voltage to the apps. The voltage should be present even disconnected.

The key trick as far as I know will only give codes from the ECM and the PCM. On your truck you are only getting the ECM. My 02 gets both but not always everything. Thats why we reccomend using a scanner. I have never seen mine identify a trans code. The 0123 code is an apps code. How is you scanner telling you that it is a trans code?

I have never had much trouble with that. You learn quickly how the e brake reacts when you break it loose the first time. Pretty much the same thing you learn when you first drive a regular vehicle in bad conditions. @Mopar1973Man and @KATOOM hit that nail on the head.

Home is where you find it. If everyone packed up a ran from rising water, wind blowing or ground shaking where would all be?

That is standard practice for most mobile homes in the south east. With tie downs of course. Tie downs are just augured into the dirt the same way the do guys for power poles. Good to hear you made it home.

I guess I miss read your post. Could have sworn you said 2000#'s. I will be quiet now.

Mine is a catch all too, but necessary. Though I went to the dump yesterday and had to stop on the scale. 8160#'s with me in it. I believe a diet is in order. As far as that top, 2000 sounds way out there if is just a shell. Fiberglass I am assuming? 200 would be more like it unless something else is going on inside of it.

Back when my Banks chip failed I had nothing but the rv's and the truck did surprising good even towing. I dont remember them alone being smokey at all. They are a little smokey with the comp turned up. Of course I dont have to deal with CARB or any emissions out my way.

Great looking truck. Somebody stole your back seat though.

I just put my timbo back in. I have two of them. One new the other about 6 years old. They both surge. I had to swap it due to inspections here. CEL on = no pass inspection. I am getting tempted to put it back on, I just get tired of seeing the light and wondering what it might be doing to the truck. I also see what you are seeing on my scan gauge. 0% at idle and 100% at WOT Something that I have noticed with the cheap is just a slight bump in the idle like it is wanting to surge. I mean it is very slight and most people would not notice it. Maybe it is just because I am expecting it to surge.

I was wondering if the chart @IBMobile posted was generic for all. And @Mopar1973Man seeing 4 pounds of freon in Ford van makes me wonder. My truck says 1.875 pounds and not sure what the wifes Saturn takes. I dont mind experimenting as long as the system does not explode in my face

Big Chickens drive 6 speeds anyway.

Like I mentioned earlier, the cheap one I bought worked fine. Eliminated my surging but the CEL stayed lit with a P222 code. I would bet if you check the codes thats what you will see. I have no idea whether it will hurt any thing. I would have to leave that to the better electronics folks here.

This fits more than you know. I did get mine working again but while doing it I have knocked something loose on the vacuum side of things and only have cold air in the defrost. Gonna trouble shoot that one tomorrow. Another good picture by the way. Rock auto has that one too. Only thing is you have 4 spring lock connectors. Even the big kit I bought only had 2. Mine were all still good and I reused them. The inlet to the condenser had one on it that was round on one side but the other side was square. I did not see one like that in the kit I bought so I used closest thing I could find in the kit and it is holding.

Patience, patience, patience!!

This is what I bought for $15 at Rock autohttp://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3923958&cc=1440064&jsn=10482&jsn=10482 At the time I did not realize that the whole system is orings except for the compressor. They are more like large sealing washer for fuel connections. They were included but all the big odd shaped are not on my truck. A good assortment of o rings would have worked as well I believe, except for the compressor, not sure where to get them. All my new stuff came with o rings and spares plus I had an assortment box so now I could almost start an o ring store. If it were me I would just top it off and see if that helps. If holds for more than a year good for you. If it does not then repairs are in order.

You can get to all of the o ring connections from under the hood. Even the evaporator connections are there next to the fire wall. Just follow the lines and you should be able to see them all. Some are easier than others to work with. The compressor has gasket on it too and they were surprisingly easier to do than I expected. The leak I had ended up being the at the high pressure line coming out of the condenser. To me that is the easiest one to get to. I should not have leaked beings it is also the easiest on the check and be sure the joint is completely seated. So a on me..