dripley

When I took my Banks chip out I still had their waste gate actuator that open near 32 psi on and passing was no fun. I had to roll into the throttle slowly and keep it below 20 psi, if not the ECM would defuel and it would take for ever to pass.

Well i was just trying to stick my head back in the forum and this was the first thread i saw. It took me 2 hours to read the whole thing. But it was worth it. TF this is a hell of a thread and a hell of a job. I look forward to reading the finish. Hello to all of you and i hope you will forgive me of my long absence. Mikey, I believe I owe a couple of phone calls.

Not wanting to make a man re live bad experiences, but I would like to know how the binding would cause the master to explode. Only for the sake of education. I really dont want to do this again. I would have to agree on riding the clutch. I am guilty of leaving my foot on the pedal when going up thru the gears and have occasionally slipped the clutch. This has been true thru the life of the truck. So my driving habits have not changed. As far as the grease disappearing, I can see where excess heat could easily sweat it out. The only things that come to my mind are, engine heat which I doubt, transmission temp, not sure about that one, I have never touched the tranny and found it hot but I dont touch it that often. That just leaves the bearing itself. I am really thinking binding of the bearing being the biggest chance of a heat source. Maybe it bound cockeyed instead of evenly. I do know that the clutch engages smoother now that it is grease. I just feel it in the clutch, the pedal still reacts the same, though the pedal might be a little easier to depress.

There is about a 5" long by maybe 1/4" slot between the bell housing and the tranny on my 6 speed. I believe it is there to allow any leaking fluid out. Cant imagine getting anything in there to grease it with though. The slave keeps the bearing in constant contact with the fingers. When I re installed the slave I had to push it in at least 1 1/2" against the pressure of the slave. The fingers did not appear to be damaged, but were polished a little. The old bearing from the second tranny I installed has grease in the bore. This bearing did have grease around the exterior of the seal. The bearing turned easily but you could not make it free spin. So I hope there was enough in there. I could not see a way to add any more to it. The slave does put a good amount of pressure on it. I re used the old slave that I cut a 1/4" of the rod and it shifts fine and goes into gear, 1st and reverse, just fine while sitting still. I don't think it makes much difference since the slave loads up as soon as it make contact with the throw out arm. I does seem to me if you add any pressure, like riding with your foot on the pedal or the bearing binding on the tube, it could cause premature failure. At least I am hoping that was my problem. I do this mainly to avoid wear and tear on my leg. My OE was still fine when I change the OE clutch at 240K.

Good to see you found your problem.

Lets hope so. Cant help but thinking the lack of grease in the bore and on the tube it slides on put some undo stress on the bearing, especially since it turns all the time.

Mine is almost identical to the above.

I did see that one and it was about double in price. In retrospect the difference is really not that bad if you consider having to replace it again. Very true. I went ahead with the National bearing. I cant disagree with what you say. The numbers add up. I had to rent a car and take a road trip for work. Got back Wednesday and went back to work on it. I did find some of the bearings up in the bell housing. The big thing I noticed was the tube the bearing slides on was dry and rusty, no grease. I went back and checked the bore of the failed baring and it was the same way. No evidence of any grease ever being applied. I guess I am going to have to take the blame since I replaced the tranny about a year after I had the clutch installed, 4 years ago. Not sure how I missed that step, but it was pretty evident I did. I big on me.I do believe the guy that installed my clutch missed it also. It is greased now. I cant help but think that this is probably why the clutch was jerky on engagement. I believe W & F was right when he said in another thread on the subject it was a sign of another possible problem. Either way it is back together and the clutch does operate smoother. This is the second time I have removed the 6 speed in my drive way. The first time 3 people helped me. This time I only had 1. My son helped me get the transfer case off, the cross member out, and the tranny off. He was able to come back one afternoon and help me bolt up the tranny(got it on by myself) and get the cross member back on. I did the rest by myself. I am getting to old for this, there is not a muscle on me that ain't worn out. I did have a transmission jack this time. This one http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/lifts-stands/800-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-69685.html. i found i guy on craigslist who had one barely used for $80. It worked fairly well except the adjuster to pitch it forward and back was impossible to turn with the knob with the tranny on it. I had to take vise grips and clamp them on and turn it. It operated fine with the transfer case on. The chain for strapping lacked a little to be desired but I used a ratchet strap instead. I am up and running and life is good again.

Well I finally made it home after completing the job in Alabama. Here is a photo I was able to take. Thought yall might like it, I darn sure enjoyed taking it. Anyway I got home and pulled the tranny and all that goes with. With the racket it had been making I was surprised that it had quieted down a lot by the time I got home. Not sure why because this is what I found when I got it out. Nothing left but the races and the were worn down to nothing. No bearings at all and the only thing I found after dropping the tranny was metal shavings. Not sure why the one from Valair failed. The new one I have is a National bearing part# 614114. Timken had the same part #, but I see on the box it is made in China. Might try and find another tomorrow, if not I guess I will have to roll the dice.Got to get back on the road by Wednesday.

If they let the fuel basket turn when they tightened the locking collar, it could be hitting the side of the tank as MnTom said. It is very easy for the basket to turn when it is re installed. I might be a little suspect if it was working before the tank was installed and now is not. If they wont pull and check you might have to do it yourself and see how it is indexed.

The main reason I did not get DRW is that I don't tow but 4 or 5 times a year. I tow heavy like you but did not have any use for the DRW. Even the higher GVW of the DRW was not something I needed on a regular basis.

Rightfully so DW. Happy for the both of you. I have a son who just retired from the Air Force after 23 years, a son in law who just returned from his 3rd tour in Afganistan, and now my grandson is going to join the army after he graduates from high school this month. Here's to all of them.

When me front left unit bearing went out I changed just that side and had no issues. But that was changing the whole assembly and maybe that was the difference. However, I do remember Mike saying they need to be changed in pairs.

Do you have the brackets on the proper sides? It is a left and right bracket. You can flip them but that might cause the problem you are having. It has been a long time since I messed with mine but I do seem to remember a small problem with the switch when I changed mine from manual to power.

I was not a ware of the bearing always spinning, but when I had the slave out yesterday I noticed it is as Mike describes it. I dont think you could cut enough off to stop it from spinning and still use the clutch. The clutch and bearing only have about 70K on them. The bearing and clutch came from Valair and I am pretty disappointed on the short life span of the bearing. Hope the clutch is fairing better. I had the rear main changed at the same time. I changed the OE clutch out at 240K while it was in the shop replacing the ECM. Turned out the old clutch still had some life left in it and the bearing was still fine. I have to agree it is going to suck replacing the bearing but is necessary. It is not much fun dropping that 6 speed in the gravel driveway and paying someone to drop the drive line for $50 bearing sucks even more.

I have run mine on the stock rotors and cheaper after market front and rear rotors with inexpensive pads. I pull a 15k# 5th wheel and have seen many 6% grades. Both before and after adding the e brake. The e brake was as good as any performance mod I have installed and well worth the money. 6% grade in 4th gear and very little use of the brakes.

I just made a 1000 mile round trip from Alabama to home and back again. Upon arrival last night I noticed a slight squeal with the clutch depressed. Drove the last couple miles to the rv and sure enough I am hearing it while changing gears. When I parked I left the engine running and it appears the bearing is turning constantly. That might explain why it is failing prematurely, only 70k on the bearing. So today I determined that the bearing is definitely turning all the time. I removed the slave and started the engine and no noise, the bearing was not spinning. I replaced the slave about 60k and never compared it to the original. So I am thinking that maybe the rod is a little long and has been spinning the bearing for a long time. . I shortened the rod a little better than 1/4" and re installed it. The bearing is still spinning, engine on and clutch released. The clutch feels no different. I still have about 1/2" to 3/4" movement before meeting much resistance. So I am thinking I will shorten the rod another quarter inch and see what happens. I cant help but think if the rod was to long that the bearing would have held up this long constantly spinning. Is there something else in there that could fail and cause the bearing to be engaged all the time? I know the tranny has got to come off no matter what to get this fixed. I am just trying to either get it home and do it myself or find some one that wont bend me over the stump and do it right. To get it home I have got to get this bearing to stop spinning.

That is is pretty darn screwy there. Glad they stepped up and fixed the issue.

Remodels always open up a can of worms and sometimes its hard to stop trying to improve on the original plan. It is funny, thru the years in my house I have done several projects with left overs form jobs. Burger King tile on the front porch, Longhorn Steakhouse slate inside the front door for a mud area. Redid my living room similar to the old look of a TGI Fridays. I have a nice stash of Chick-fil-a tile for the kitchen and bath. I think when I retire I'll just open a restaurant..

Good luck and happy b'day.

Look around there, I know some are new and did not look enough to see if any were rebuilds. Some were associated with the Sanden name but the part numbers were differant from the one on E-Bay.

The 3.8 we had in the wife's Lincoln would fly. It seem to have alot more power than it should have.

I have been eyeballing these 2, but dont know anything about either. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=816347&cc=1440064 or this kit http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3934884&cc=1440064 Everything the have there is under $200, but I dont know how they compare to the one on E-Bay.

Are you asking about fuel treated with an anti gel and 2 stroke or just 2 stroke @ 128:1?

I was not pulling the trailer. It started a few weeks ago and was minor. Then started getting worse and worse, but like the last trip home it worked fine for that last 75 miles or so. It has worked fine since fixing the battery terminal. Hope thats not just a coincidence. The throttle/APPS worked fine the whole time. If the cruise started cutting out all I had to do was mash the pedal.