dripley

I think this the first time in a long time someone has been sent to the corner. behave yourself:tease:

It seems to start quicker with no fuel pressure than with fuel pressure. Is it the same on both hot and cold starts? If so I think that is pointing towards a weakened VP from what I have read. The truck acted different on the 2 starts. Normal operation if your pump is controlled by the ECM would be key on and quick bump in pressure then back to 0 pressure, then key to start and you should see about 1/2 pressure until engine starts up, then full pressure. If you bump the started with no engine start you should see full pressure for 20 to 25 seconds.

I second the evaporator. I also replaced the connector on the blend door. It is a small plastic piece that connects the door to the motor that turns it. Google "heater treater" and you can see it. Mine was cracked and affecting the heater. It can be replaced without removing the hvac box, but is very easy with the box on a bench. I also replaced alot of foam gaskets while I had mine out. Just depends on what yours looks like when you take it out. Be careful when you pull the box out, I broke off a couple of the studs when removing mine. You have pull the box out and down at the same time. A couple of the studs are vertical and the rest are horizontal. You should see that when you remove the nuts.

I read Mike's article before I did mine and had no trouble. I think the key to it as you mention is just taking the one side loose and not trying to completely remove the dash. That would seem to me to be much more involved. - - - Updated - - - I read Mike's article before I did mine and had no trouble. I think the key to it as you mention is just taking the one side loose and not trying to completely remove the dash. That would seem to me to be much more involved.

I dont know any thing about the hitch. What I do know is full timing Is an easy way to find 3500# of stuff to put in it. The wifey is coming with you also right. Nothing personal meant, mine was and is very could a accumulating stuff. Not that I did not contribute also. You just have to be mindful of how much stuff you pack.

from the sounds of it , you have to drill holes and rivet with the barbed connectors or just use the sticky tape? No instructions?

#1 yes it will continue to leak. #2 If you are somewhat mechanically inclined it is not difficult to do. I just redid my dash and rebuilt the hvac box 2 or 3 months ago. this is a good read on the procedurehttp://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/27-hvac-heating-ventalation-and-air-conditioning/57-air-conditioning-evaporator-core-heater-core-replacement. I had never removed a dash before. I did it taking my time over a weekend. I also replaced my cracked dash at the same time. about 3 years ago I had an ac man tell me it would cost near $900 to do this. It really is alot easier than you think.

next time it gets stuck, smack the inboard side of the tank at the basket and see if that shakes it loose.the float on my 02 is on the inboard side. Might work, never had to try it myself.

I have been thru the intank pump and it was a pos. Cost me over $900 from the dealer installed. They are not any better than the OE block mounted one. What ever you chose, put a fuel pressure gauge on it.

If the fuel basket is not aligned properly the float could be hanging up on the side of the tank.

El cheapo Sunpro from Advance. $17 auto zone has them too. I want to get the dash problem fixed so that gauge is reading right. The lead on it is not long enough to bring it in the cab unless you put a new whole in the fire wall. For now mine resides under the hood. I would go with the Isspro mechanical if I permanently install one however.

The pump new would have come with a wiring harness and the pump wiring should have had a connector made onto it. Sounds like someone cut it loose from the harness. Like mentioned above, you can go to AD's site and down load the instruction manual. When I installed mine, everything had connectors that just plugged together.

click on "more" below the ones on the right and you will have all the you need. scroll almost to the bottom.The sensors read both thru the PCM and the ECM. Someone smater than me would have to tell which ones go thru which computer.

That appears to be an I told you so gauge, but it could double for a skull thickness gauge as well. Now if i can find a place to install on my dash.

Okay folks, I now have the dash gauge, a mechanical gauge, and I installed a scan gauge II. I drove to work this morning. When i got there the dash said about 165*, the scan agreed with that. The mechanical gauge read 185* and I ohm'ed the sensor and it read 1.00. so it seems the sensor is reading good but the signal is degrading before it gets to the the electronic gauges. I do have a T-tap on the signal wire for my EB and maybe that has let some moisture into the harness. The only problem i my head was the over cooling problem predates the t-tap, though it has progressively worsened over time. So to all of you who have been telling me what i did not want to believe, thank-you, I now believe. MM needs an emoticon that has a very thick skull(insert here). Thanks to all who have offered advise and when I find the problem I will let yall know where it was. I am now ready for my:spank: .That is only one:spank: that i deserve and not 3.

the fan coming on at cold start up is normal. It has to recirculate the viscous liquid inside for it to start working properly again.

Keep a real close eye on that FP gauge with a stock lift pump. let us know how the install goes.

I appreciate the info. I have not looked at it thru a scanner, but just bought a Scan Gauge II. It will be here tomorrow. Its time I put this one to bed. It has been going on long enough. If I do have a short somewhere, why am I seeing the temp swings like the tstat is opening and closing? It is a slow swing down and then back up. I would think a short would make it move quickly. The reaction I am getting from the Banks system is very much like a short but only occurs when the gets low enough. The cooler the worse the reaction.

I never thought the radiator was the problem, until I blew the end of of it. I blocked it off in the past just to see what would happen. It just made the fan came on. I agree with a wiring problem except when the gauge drops way down I can grab the top radiator hose and hold it with no problem. When gauge goes up to 165 it is to hot to hold onto. I know that is not very scientific but its all I got right now since I fried the mechanical gauge. I am going to pick up another soon. - - - Updated - - - I did have them on that day. The temp was around 40 that morning, got up near 50 for the rest of the day. No problem on the rest of the trip thru the mountains, other the gauge showing swings in temp of 25*(140 to 165). When the gauge was reading 165 the truck ran good, When it would drop down it would mess with gauges and the banks tuner. Like it was switching on and off .

I did, but the sob keeps coming back. - - - Updated - - - I dont know if age was a factor or exactly how hot everything got. Last time I saw the gauge before it blew it was near 200 and climbing. I set and over temp code also. I dont know how hot it got, but she still runs the same. I took that same run a couple years ago and the temp went just over 200 and that tstat worked fine for a few months then went back to low readings again.

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/HeadLights/Dodge/Ram-2500-Truck/1ALHP00037/531266 This is who I got mine from. - - - Updated - - - http://www.1aauto.com/1A/HeadLights/Dodge/Ram-2500-Truck/1ALHP00037/531266 This is who I got mine from.

Well taken care of and smart too.

I would not worry about the picture. From what I know about this place, we are all upside down part of the time any way. I had no problem reading it.

I know I am electronically slow but I just ohm'ed the sender as I was instructed to do(since MM pointed out the right way to do it). I have 1.2 ohms with the gauge reading just under 165*. Put in a mechanical gauge and it reads 200*, but during install my head mechanic seemed to let the capillary tube touch the + terminal on the battery and now it wont read below 140* no matter what. So I will have to get another gauge. I would fire the mechanic, but I am the only one I have.

LiveOak is right, this also a possibility. Check your cranking pressure also. It should only be about 1/2 of your normal running pressure. Mine idles at just over 19 and cranks at about 10. I will be keeping my fingers crossed that it is an air leak and not the vp.