dripley

Here ate all the photos I took of the new lights. There is one thing I left out. The gaskets that came on the head lights did not fit to the grill properly. They were puckered out and stuck out beyond the grill. I think they got folded in the box, not sure. I have them laid out at home trying to straighten them. I just used the ones off of the old headlights being there was nothing wrong with them. I am keeping my fingers crossed these pics post. - - - Updated - - - OH HAPPY DAY.:hyper:

It sounds like the starter contacts wearing out. When mine did it would either start or click once and nothing. It finally just quit starting and I replaced the starter. Problem fixed. You can replace the starter contacts. Try reading thishttp://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/124-starter-contact-replacement - - - Updated - - - I cant seem to post any links:banghead:. It is in the articles section under engine systems. I did not know about this when mine went out, a lot cheaper than a new starter and there is no shortage of members who have done this.

Just tick under 280k. Might have to throw Old Blue a party when crosses 300k.

Definite sign of an air leak somewhere. Mine was leaking at the return tee and the banjo bolt at the rear of the engine. That will allow the air in and let the fuel go back to the tank. Running the lift pump before starting just pushes fuel back in where it belongs. I replace the orings on the tee and the sealing washers on the banjo bolt on the back of the head. Every once in awhile it will still happen(1 in 100 starts maybe), just not enough to make me go find it. When my engine does not hit in the first second and a half, I just let the lift pump run for a cycle and it starts right up. When you first turn the key on the ECM will bump the fuel pump and you will see the pressure spike and fall right back off to 0. This is normal. The fuel system does not hold any pressure unless the truck is running.

I got one from doge for $50. There oe replacement. I priced one from a Cummins dealer in OK about a year ago and they wanted $90. Both harsh on the wallet.

I will fix the pics today if my computer will cooperate. The ones I mentioned look just like the oe. So far no one has flashed me for blinding them either.

The grid heaters pull a lot of power. What you are seeing is normal.

I typically see 70 to 80 on cold start up even idling, probably a little higher when first driving. As I warm up the pressure drops to where you are about 25 idle and 50 under load. This is based on the dash gauge and not a good mechanical gauge. But the numbers don't look out of line.

I seen a lot of you adding after market headlight to improve the oe ones. I have always liked the way the stockers look and until the oe ones started to glaze over. I had been satisfied with the light they put out. So it stock is not what you want this thread is not about upgrades. I bought a set of headlights only from A1 Auto. They cost $75, came with new bulbs and no turn signals. My old turn signals look just fine. Eagle Eyes is the brand . I don't think the photos show either very well. All in all I am very happy with how it turned out. The big question is Ho long will they last. Only time will tell that one. If you after major upgrades like HID or Sport these aren't what you want. If stock is what you are after and $75 is in your price range, these will fit the bill. Longevity:shrug:, we'll see. - - - Updated - - - having troubles with photos will fix this evening.

I have never heard any one mention that it would hurt the vp. So I would not think it would. Might need others opinions on that. You said the ds was cut with a tubing cutter. It should be cut with a slight angle or some notches added so it want suck to the bottom of the tank. Might that be causing your problem?

Welcome, John.

The trailer is 35' long and 12' 8'' high. I forget the gwr on it. I would have to go back to it and check. The last time I went over a scale I weighed 22.4K. As I remember it broke like this, front axle 4K, rear axle 6K and the trailer axles 12.4K. My truck and what I usually carry in it weighs near 7.5K. that leaves me about 15k on the trailer. I believe the trailer is rated for 16K, I would have to check that. If is important to you I will this evening. Like W&F says there are a lot of ways to go with a hitch. I was pretty naïve when I bought mine first rv and let the dealer point me to some one who sold and installed hitches. I ended up with a Reese frame rail mounted hitch that has been with me for about 14 years. I had it in my 96 and had it reinstalled on my 02 where it sill resides. The rails occasionally bother me, but for the most part with the hitch out it is no big deal. That is all a personal preference. Be sure you get one that is rated for what you want to pull. Mine is so old I cant read it any more, but I do remember checking it before I bought the Cardinal I have now and had room to spare. You should not have any trouble finding a hitch for your truck.

Pretty cool, Mike. Enjoyed it. After seeing the guy pass you I just kept looking for more and never noticed the cracked windshield.

When I bought my first trailer I chose a 5th wheel because of all the bumper pulls I had seen on the highway that were just wrong. By that I mean trailers swaying back and forth, and tow vehicles almost dragging there bumpers. A proper hitch and a properly loaded trailer would help cure both of those problems. Another thing I considered, especially since I basically live in mine, was total length. That is why I settled on a 5th wheel. As far as the hitch it the bed, it is not to bothersome to me. I just take it out and the rails only occasionally get in the way. I do have to pull the tailgate every once in a while to slide something heavy into the bed. That all depends on what type of forklift is loading the truck.

just to answer a couple of the questions you also asked. When you first turn the key the ECM bumps power to the lift pump. That is why you see the pressure jump up. Bleeding back down quickly is normal. There is nothing in the fuel system to hold pressure on the low or high pressure side. The engine and pumps must be running to hold pressure. When cranking the ECM should cycle the pump so you have reduced pressure for starting. The VP does not want high pressure for starting. Especially if the diaphragm is torn. I typically see around 9 or 10 psi while cranking and 19 at idle. Try the simple test Mike describes and see what happens. As far as the lift pump relay, I know nothing about it, but Mike know his stuff and I trust him completely.

I was thinking out of the country to. I think we had a guy here for a while from Checkoslavakia and his English was off some also. I think my Check is off also because I don't have clue of how to spell it. Anyway welcome again Sharjeel, jump in anywhere you want to and make yourself at home.

I should have added I have a 5th wheel and not a goose neck.

I just drop the gate and back under the trailer and into the hitch. no need to close tailgate until you are ready to leave. The notched tailgate will allow you to hook up without dropping the tailgate.

It is an allen head and I believe a 17mm.

How much fuel can you put in the tank after it sucks air showing 1/2 full? Deduct what you put in from the tank size and you will have a good idea of how far off your gauge is.

It sounds like you have the stock lift pump or at least an aftermarket in the stock location. It will be located on the block behind and just to the rear of the fuel filter canister. The stock pumps are notorious for weak pressure, hence the need for a fuel pressure gauge. It will also let you know there is a problem with pressure and or the filter getting dirty. You cant rebuild the VP yourself. It has to be built and tested on a high dollar Bosch test stand. The articles section here has a lot of good info on these matters. Blue Chip diesel is another good source for info. you might want to read up on it some. There is more than one way to do what you need to do to the fuel system and I you have questions, ask them. There will be no shortage of answers.

I would have to agree with both of the above. It will be tough on the wallet however. If you can do it your self you will save a good bit. Mike has some good instructions here on the VP and after market lift pumps will come with there own. I did both of mine and had never touched anything like it before. Less than a day for each taking my time.

I had to drop mine twice when I installed my ADII. The first time took me 1.5 hours just because I had never done it before. The center bearing is in the way some what. Some head scratching and a little persuasion with a hammer and it came right off. The second time was to correct the clamps I did not completely install the first time I had it out. Both times I stacked wood blocking under each end of the tank and let the tank rest there. I was able to lift the tank on one end and let the fuel go to the other end while I removed the block on the light end. I only had about 4 gallons in the tank. The more fuel the harder that would be. The second time only took about 30 minutes.

I did replace the pump about a year and a half ago. They appeared identical as far as the number of blades on the impeller and side by side nothing was noticeable that was different. The only catch is the problem started over 4.5 years ago. About 6 months ago it started getting worse to where I am now. I installed the mechanical gauge this afternoon. But much to my disappointment after installing the sender into the head, I let capillary tube and its pretty spring like covering cross the positive battery terminal:doh:. After that the gauge would not go below 160. I drove it home and it did go to 205* and right now is slowly cooling down. Glad I bought the cheapo Sunpro from Advance. Might go buy another tomorrow and see if my ignorant self can install it without frying it. What's another 20 bucks. I am reading the voltage on the signal wire coming from the sender and the gauge is reading 140 and the voltage is reading 1.55. earlier at 160 I was reading 1.2 volts. Mike posted an ohm reading but I must be doing some thing wrong. I cant read anything when I set the dvm to ohms. Did I mention electronics is my very weak spot. I aint afraid to take anything off this truck and replace it but electronics and I are sometimes in different worlds.

It is cycling. The temp is constantly moving up and down. From 140 to a max of 170. Seems to like near 160* most of the time. I am assuming that it is opening when I see the temp drop to the low 140's and it is closed completely when it rises to 165 and occasionally 170. I went and bought another temp gauge today and while looking under the hood I leaned against the top radiator hose and it almost burnt me. It was to hot to hold for more than 2 or 3 seconds. I have not felt it that hot I while. Got in and turned the switch on and the gauge read about 168*, must of shut it down with the tstat closed. It cooled back down to 160 when I drove off. I'll hook up the temp gauge to night and see what it says. - - - Updated - - - sorry about hijacking your thread on the hazing D'max. this temp thing is driving me crazy.