dripley

I went over there and looked around. I have never been into the vacuum pump before. Is the pricier kit with tools and instructions worth the money or is replacing this pretty straight forward?

I beleive DAP has both Bosch rv275 and a cheaper rv 275. He did when I first started looking at them. They were cheap. But for no more than what he gets for the Bosch, why buy cheap.

The tires were $230 apiece. thats alot for a couple of coopers. Labor was $75 an hour to get them and put them on. It sucked but what do you do.

I noticed a little growl out of my power steering pump today. Checked the fluid and it was low and added some to it quit the little growl I was hearing. I have also noticed it growl a little on start up in the cold part of the winter. It always went away after warm up. How do you check the pump to see if it is going bad? I have also noticed some oil driping from that area and was thinking the seals are going bad. When I get home I am replacing the tappet cover gasket and will have that side of the engine pretty clear. Since I am going to be in there that deep I would not mind doing what ever I need to wile I have it apart.I have seen mentioned here before about a rebuild kit for the seals. Can yall remind me of where that can be obtained?

Well I had 14 ply on it, but they are 4 years old. Thats why I did not try to go any where on them. The tread was seperatomg on a third one. Who knows when the fourth one would have gone. I stopped twice in the first 150 miles just to check all my tires to see how they were doing. All of them were warm to the touch on the tread and the side walls. Nothing odd about any of them, figured I was good to go. I found someone who brought me some tires and mounted them on my rims. He was not a good samaritan but a buisness man. 2 cooper 235 85r 16's, load range E and the total on that was $650. I would still be in the rest area with out them. - - - Updated - - - It seems my trailer tires last about 3.5 to 4 years and they start failing. I noticed something on the third tire that the tread was seperating on. I could feel the seperation near the bottom of the tire and upon closer inspection I also noticed some cracking in the side wall, a lot of small cracks. When I pulled the truck up alittle the cracking was not visible. My trailer does not move alot and it appeared the cracking was where it sat parked. I usually move mine about every 4 months. I thinking that has to have something to do with it. Next time I park I might just jack up the traler and get the weight off the tires. I also believe a set of wheel covers are in my future. This is the first time I ever had them to crap out all at once. In the past when one went bad the others were not far behind and I would buy a whole set. Never had them all go at once. How long to most of yall get out of a set of trailer tires? I did not realize when I bought the last set that they were LT and not trailer tires, they still lasted about as long as any others so I am not sure that made any diffearance. - - - Updated - - - I really appreciate the offer of help from you and every one else. If the state of Illinois would not have cared I would have borrowed some of their wood and blocked the whole thing up and taken all four rims to a tire store. The few places that were open had no 14 ply tires, only 10 ply. - - - Updated - - - I want to thank all of yall offering to help. It just prooves again how great a site this is. Thanks to Mike for having this site and Thanks to all the member who make it what it is. I did manage to find some tires. They are 12 ply, but the tires are rated at 3900#, The 14 ply I that explode were rated at 3700#. They will be here tomorrow and I will be on my way. THANKS TO ALL!!!!!!!

I believe the one I got from auto zone is Nippondenso. Who know how long it will last. My oe Bosch lasted near 245k. The case failed where it bolted thru the bracket. Other than that it would still be on the truck and working I believe. I did get a lifetime warranty with the Nippon, so I should not have to buy another. I guess I am not much help since I dont know anything about the Bosch rebuilt.

I'll let yall be the judge on the shreads.and its neighbor. One tire o the opposite side already is seperating and i am sure the 4th is not far behid. Closest tire store that is open is 90 miles north and they dont have G rated tires,only E's. I could jack it it up, but dont have enough of anything to block them up and be able to take all 4 in one trip. I did find someone that is bringing some tires to get me moving again untill i can find something tomorrow. This is probably gonna hurt.

Thanks for the info. I just went ahead and bought a new tire to get home on. Maybe the insurance company will pay for part of it. Now I am sitting ina rest area outside of Bloomington IL with 1 shreaded trailer tire, one with the tread slung off, and another with the tread starting to seperate. Sunday aint a good day to buy tires.

Well headed to the tire store today to get my trailer tire fixed and I come up on a lady at her mailbox on the left side of the road. Just as I get there she makes a hard left turn and came right across the road in front of me. I almost missed her by sliding up her drive way. No major damaged though and every one is unhurt. Her bumper caught my tire and ripped open. Got a little fender damage and my new taillight is broken. Anyway, my tires are about shot. I was waiting to buy some new ones when i got home, but now I have to do something. I have got my spare, it is the oe and almost new. How bad is it to run on new tire and 3 old ones. I have heard running differant diameter tires is not good on the diff. The tires are the same size. one is like new and the others are about gone. I have 1000 mile trip ahead of me with the 5th wheel. Any input would be appreciated.

The third line on your fuel basket is the engine fuel return line. Yes you need it.

I would agree on the rpm. You have to shove your foot in it, but it will take off oand go if you keep the rpm up. The 02 had a Jett chip in it. Boerlla headers, performance throtle body, flow master exhaust and it would fly. Had to have 100 more hp than the 06. Just have not had any major trouble out of either one.

Enginde return line and the AD pump return line. You are talking about fuel lines, correct? IIRC when I installed mine I drilled a new hole for the new pick up tube and reconnected the engine return to its old connection and used the old pick up connection for the AD return line.

Just curious as to why you would stay away from the 4.7? Do you know something I should know?

I used the kit also because I had the in tank pump also. I remember the pick up tube(draw straw what ever you want to call it)was of 2 piece construction with clamps. since you are haveing problems as the tank empties it comes to mind that could be an issue. I had to drop my tank twice because I was worried I had not put the clamps in the proper place. I put the clamps on the pickup and put everything together but forgot to slip them into the proper position before installing the basket in the tank. I discovered this looking at some pics I took:doh:. I also used some petroleum rated pipe dope on the joint in the pickup tube because i did not trust it. Evry once in a while(like this morning for instance)mine will hard start. I am so used to it firing off,I let go off the key before it fires. If that happens, I try it one more time the same way and if it does not start i let the lift pump run the 25 second cyle and it fire right off. Also I was low on fuel, not sure if I was the other times that has happened but I am going to keep an eye on it and see if it just happens with low fuel. I could see in a low fuel situation(3 to 4 gallons), you might could loose your prime while parked and not running since the pickup tube is sitting at the bottom of the basket and not on the bottom of the tank. Since your problem seems to start near or below a half tank, that would be right at the joint in the pickup tube. I realize dropping the tank aint much fun, but the second time I dropped mine it only took half as long as the first. You are going to get very good at it, if that make you feel any better. Not laughing at you, just try laugh with you. I had to find some humor when I realized none of my clamps were positioned properly. - - - Updated - - - You might have a little wait on me to see if enlarging those openings is possible, as long as I can keep my pressure running at 19 and 16, I am probably going to leave alone. It would be nice to open them though. The acces door is pretty good idea if it werenot for the support you would have cut. The last time I dropped the tank it only took about 20 minutes, maybe thirty. It is still a pain though.

Appreciate the input. I know you have alot of experiance with the 5600. Just looking for anything that makes something better or last longer.

I just replaced mine for the same things you are experiencing. The starter was about 4.5 years old and under a lifetime warranty. It could be a bad wire to the starter and you are not getting enough voltage to run it properly. but I will defer to the more electrically knowledgeable to help with that. My batteries are also less than 6 months old.

Did you use the kit for the intank pump replacement?

I have the same coolers sitting at the house waiting for me also.

My wife is on her second one. First one was a 00 2 wd, 4.7L, auto. She drove it for 5 years. It had 160k when we traded it and had very little trouble out of it. We traded it for a new 06 and it has 135k on it now. It is 4wd, 4.7, auto. The only thing I have had to replace on it is the left front wheel bearing and ball joints. It has gone thru 3 cam positioning sensors in 6 months, the oe and 2 replcements from Auto zone. Not sure why. It is a little harsh on gas, 18 to 19 on the highway9wifey has a lead foot also) and about 13 to 14 around town. I think we will keep this on for a while since it is paid for. Both of them were and are good trucks.

I am sitting here in the parking lot looking at the 5 or 6 protestors with their signs standing on the street corner. I have to drive by them getting out in the street. I was wondering how much smoke I could blow them and how well they might like it. When lo and behold a 3rd gen drives by and lugged the engine down a smoked em pretty good. Did not seem to bother them, so I guess mI got my answer.

I take it your truck does not have them already. If it does they are already on the truck.

I dont know what to tell you about the LS. It appears some folks are using and I too have been considering. I have no shifting issues with mine right now. Every once in a while I will shift into a differant gear to go into reverse but it does not grind. I might add some before I change the fluid just to see if it make any diferance, not sure.

Hello and welcome. A good whle before my ECM crapped out I had a similar problem. It was like something was turning my Ottomind tuner on and off. I would be cruising just fine and like flipping a switch I would loose power. Not to the degree you are speaking of. I just seemed to loose the power the tuner was providing. It was intermittant and I never figured it out. Then the ECM went. After replacing it I have never had the problem again. I also was experiencing dead pedal and bucking issues. That turned out to be low fuel pressure issues.I am not trying to say rush out and buy one, they are way to pricey just to throw at it. If you know someone that has a truck like yours maybe they would let you use theirs and see if makes a differance.I believe I have read where the newer MAP sensors are differant from the oe. I dont know for sure.

I tapped my gauge into a tee in the big line kit I installed a while back and capped the outlet on the 90* fitting so I can bleed the low pressure side easily and connect a test gauge to it also. It works well.

That was an interesting read. I was suprised to see some folks using 75-90 with no apparemt problems. Mine shfts good with the penzoil. I might put a ittle LS in it and see what happens.