dripley

I like the cattleprod idea. You need to also install a camera so you can film it happening. Just dont YOU forget its on there.

I used the fitting that was supposed to go in the VP. Just installed it on the fuel canister instead of the VP. That s on an 02 with the later model fuel canister. The big line kit came with every thing to connect the canister to the VP.

Rock auto has good prices on suspension parts.

What little lope I get started after injector install, my AD went in 6 or 8 months before then with no lope.

If you follow the return line off of the VP towards the back of the engine it will lead you to the tee. It can be seen by looking over the fuel cansiter just past the IAT sensor. If you just reach around the back of the head you can feel the return line banjo bolt in the center about 3" down. Not sure how to help with your second problem.

I connected my ADII straight to the oe canister with the fittings supplied with the pump. Just conect it straight to the canister instead of the VP. I then used a big line kit from Vulcan Performance to connect to the VP. It came with the necassary fittings.

I put my ADII in about 1.5 years ago. It is run thru the oe fuel canister with a vulcan big line kit. It has run flawlessly since install. It is definately overkill for my truck, but did not cost much more thant the 150 + it came with a kit to ditch my in tank pump. Mine came with quick disconnects and jic fittings. I have heard of some folks having problems with the quick diconnects, but I have not experienced any. As far as noise, I cannot hear mine unless the engine is not running. I lile the external pressure adjustment for convenience. Ther are a couple of mechanical pumps out ther also. DTT assasin and Fuel Boss I think. I dont know much about them othe than what i have seen on the internet. Not trying to muddy the water, it is just another option out there that it seems other folks are trying.

I cant say as to why it is happening but mine will lope a little mostly on a cold start up. Not always just occasionally. It started doing it after I installed RV275's. The idle dropped just a little also. It does so little I have never given it much concern, figured it was because of the differant injectors.After the install I noticed mine was a little smokier, but never paid that much attention to it. Mine is now smokier thatn yours and my boost pressure is off a few pounds. Pretty sure I have a boost leak somewhere. I just cant get home long enough to fix it. What kind of injectors did you install?

It would be 10" if you asked my wife.

My 4" has a 5" tip on it just for looks.

What condition is the rest of your front suspension in? Ball joints, tie rod ends and such.

The WTS and the scanner not communicating with the truck is sounding like you hava a ECM issue. Unfortunately I dont know how to tell you to check it.

I have seen folks knock them down and folks speak highly of them. Mine have been in for 1.5 years with no problems. I have seen that with alot of things we use on our vehicles here and else where. They way I se it, to each his own. So no offense taken here as I would assume no offense was meant either.

My lower Moog joints came with angled fittings for easier greasing. Good luck wiht the install.

I replaced my master about 2.5 years ago. I just put it on a bled it by pumping the pedal. Now this did take quite a while as in a couple of weeks or more before I got all the air out. It did finally work though and had not had any issues sense.

I have recently noticed a drop in boost pressure. so today I put some air pressure to the waste gate and only notice maybe 1/8" travel in the actuator arm. I am worried it is stuck in a slightly open position. Can i just pull the compressor side of the turbo and not remove the entire piece?

I got my tow mirrors from AM. I have been happy with them. Today I folded the driversside to the door and when I pushed it back it did not lock in place. Friction is keeping it there for now, but we will see about later.

I would have to agree with both of the gentlemen above. I also have a mechanical gauge in the cab for over 1 year with no issues. It is tapped into the fuel line before the vp, but after all filtration.There is a test port on your vp where the fuel line connects to the pump. It is a scharder valve with a cap on it. You can hook up a test gauge there and double check your pressure. That is if you are still stock.

Dobienut is right about the cruise. It is controlled by the ecm and not the apps. That is a good way of testing, if you have a problem like yours with the cruise off, you can turn the cruise on and see if it goes a way. That would point to the apps. Seems yours is happening no matter which is running the engine. Give the filter swap a try. There is also a test port on your vp where the fuel line goes into int. It is a schrader valve with a cap on it. You can hook up a test gauge there and see what your fuel pressure is now. but by all means start looking at a fuel pressure gauge in the near future. - - - Updated - - - Just to add to this, the fuel line from your tank to the filter is the same size also. All the fuel line on these truck is small. This is if you are still stock.

I really like the easy acces thru the floor. Good luck with it all.

The thing that bugs me about all this is when I look at my head lights they look 12 years old, but my turn sgnals look like they just came off the lot. Is it the heat from the head lights that turns the plastic?

Well Imade it home about 3am tuesday morning with no more issues. Something I donnot understand is why my trailer tires gave put after near 4 years on the trailer with very few miles and my 12 year old spare made the whole trip with no problem mounted on the rear axle of my truck?

does that kit rebild the pump also? Or is it just the seal that gives the problems?

at least you have seen 200k+

necessity will empty the wallet sometimes. I have been wanting to try a differant size tire on my truck and I guess I will now. So maybe some good will come of it. I surely wont be tire poor after all of this.