kzimmer

I've done it on a few vehicles and was able to deal with it, but it definitely wasn't ideal.

I have some cheap led Halo projector housings from eBay, came with some nice tail lights too. Quality is pretty decent, great cutoff. I don't have the info off hand but it was a worthwhile purchase. Came with halogen bulbs, and instead of buying HID's I have a set of LED bulbs to put in. I've used both LED and HID and like them both, but I dislike the warmup time of brights being HID. Sorry for the tangent.

Oh crap... The cruise control.

I gotta wait til the snow is off the ground. Im interested in trying. Probably the weekend after the one coming up. So this is why it stopped working after 20-30 minutes and set a MIL? With a better connection it's all good permanently? I wonder if there could possibly be any other repercussions of the ECM/PCM thinking the truck is in park/neutral? I must admit I'm a little titillated.

Begs the question, what else may affect torque management? Maybe something that can be permanent. Good find though for sure.

Well, then just another "help" menu in the custom tuning area that explains all parameters in one shot. This of course assumes the parameters are in final revision and won't be changed.

This is where the app really needs an info button beside each parameter with a description. I mean sure, a guy can have the manual with him, but a built in app description would be the icing on the cake.

Which line do you disconnect? Relay coil wire, or output wire to the grids? Mine throws a code if you disconnect the coil wire, but not if the grid heater itself is disconnected.

I think you should try dropping your pop pressure down to 330 - 340 bar.

There wasn't many hoops for me, it connected fine once I installed xposedMTC to change the expected OBD2 bluetooth name to quad. The only exception is, like you said, data logs don't export. I still haven't found out why, but I haven't dug in too far either. That's the only thing, but I just use my smartphone when I want to datalog. It's only the iquad app. All other apps I've used work great. Some day we'll figure that out. Also when I upgrade to Android version 5, the app won't connect to Bluetooth. And again, only the iquad app is affected, all other apps and Bluetooth devices work fine. With the factory OS it connects. I wouldn't want to run the quad any other way. No extra devices or junk hanging from dash, window, etc.

Assuming a variable geometry turbo for very fast spoolup?

So many questions so little time, haha. I dislike the boost elbow. I'm not sure if they're all the same but I want to say I've seen two types. One that simply restricts flow by making the orifice smaller... Which will make the wastegate open later, which is nice, but then the pressure will overcome the smaller orifice in a short amount of time... And you're back to square one. I think the "good" ones have a hole to intentionally bleed this extra pressure off... Which is a boost leak. Which is lame. Even more lame, it's an intentional boost leak. No matter how small that leak is, it's still a leak. Google search ball and spring boost controller, or regulator. Basically you have a ball in a seat, tentioned with a spring and the body of the unit is threaded to add or remove tention on the spring. Pressure on the inlet side will now have to overcome the ball and spring to allow air pressure to make it to the wastegate. When boost reference drops below the spring tension, the ball is closed, blocking an increase in pressure to the wastegate. No wasted air. You might find multiple complicated ways to plumb these online, but I just ran mine in-line the silicone wastegate reference hose. Set my compounds up with this and was able to nail my pressure ratios at WOT exactly where I wanted them, with no deviation for as long as I feel like holding the skinny pedal down. I stand behind the theory, and they are cheap as hell on fleabay. I honestly can't believe people use those boost elbows. Edit: Here's a link to an example. Im pretty sure this is the exact one I have. If you're wondering why it's so cheap, it's because it's stupid simple. https://m.ebay.ca/itm/Adjustable-Manual-Boost-Controller-MBC-Ball-Spring-for-Turbocharged-Vehicle-O0B6/361900309685?hash=item5442f07cb5:g:HjgAAOSwNnRYmpXx

Boost elbows are lame. These work way better. I used one of these to tune my compounds. Basically a ball valve with a spring.

Well then... Here comes the side cutters, resistors, and butt splices...

@Dynamic will take us all to school on this, but from what I understand, a torque converter with a non-billet cover can tend to balloon with the extra oil pressure. A little bit of ballooning I think is normal, which is why we have a flex plate and not a solid flywheel. However when it becomes excessive, bad things happen. A billet cover helps combat this. There's probably more benefit than that however; that's just one thing I read a while back. Edit: Here's a video that shows ballooning. However I was wrong, it's the back plate, not the front cover.

@Me78569 Could the Quadzilla be programmed to filter TPS? I'm not sure if it's possible to intercept and overwrite TPS. That way 0% in could be 0% out, 100% in could be 100% out, and the curve could be modified, possibly with a single adjustable parameter which could identify the midpoint of an S curve. Thoughts? Edit: I just realized that would also affect fueling, and as a result, do nothing. Lol.

Thanks for the responses guys. @jlbayes That's exactly when I planned on doing a couple weekends from now when I get the time, I'll throw a meter on and see what the range is. I just need to find the right logic ground reference in that harness first. The main PCM ground might have to do. On the 47RH did it affect lockup and OD or just OD? I think this will do what I want, and if it affects both, that's just icing on the cake. I'll report back with my findings when I learn something.

I did see that, and I thought it was really badass. Great idea. Only problems are that I don't want to have to teach someone else driving the truck to manually activate lockup, and I don't want the risk of locked shifts. Below is a screenshot of the factory service manual. Not shown in this screenshot is the APPS, which is wired to the ECM. It looks like, for some reason, the APPS (TPS) signal is repeated by the ECM and retransmitted, hard wired, to the PCM. I have no idea why they chose to do it this way instead of sending it over the data bus. I also don't know how it's scaled. Assuming 0-5 VDC, just like the ECM. Can anyone verify? I'll measure if need be. So, maybe I can break the signal at this point and use a voltage divider to reduce the TPS voltage that the PCM sees. This would definitely delay lockup. However, does anyone know what else the PCM might use this signal for?

Makes sense. I guess that's another point in favour of creating a circuit that disables lockup in certain situations, rather than attempting to fully control it.

Yessir, I'm fully aware of the information available on this site, and I am aware of most lockup issues. This is not an issue of AC noise or bad APPS. I do appreciate the advice very much; however I'm more looking towards a solution to this particular situation, and ideas to adjust when lockup occurs, rather than what else can cause various lockup issues. Absolutely. This would likely be the most effective method. Just debatably not not simplest... But this might not be possible to over-simplify. It's a conundrum. Totally. I don't want to risk that. Mind you, if one were to use vehicle speed, you can be fairly sure you are fast enough to be shifted from 2nd to 3rd. Good idea, thank you. Maybe there's some secrets worth sharing, haha. True story. I've been known to try to have my cake and eat it too... Haha.

Yes. The PCM (or ECM, which ever it is) allows lockup to occur around 12 or 13% TPS, and then unlocks around 11%. Something like that. So if I'm cruising along around 60 km/h in 3rd gear, at 13% it'll lock, throttle will have to back off a little bit to maintain speed now that the trans is locked, lose a couple % TPS, then unlock. More TPS is now required to maintain speed. Repeat. Yes. I mean I can bump the shifter into second but I'm not a huge fan of doing that, or trying to remind my wife to do that.

Hey All, I would like to find a simple, inexpensive and automated way to adjust when torque converter lockup occurs. I am not interested in off the shelf transmission controllers. I have an electronics and industrial automation background. I am interested in hearing ideas that pertain to a DIY install and long term reliability, as well as ease of use for someone else driving the truck. I have 3.54 gears and 35" tires. I'm fully aware what that means for my final drive ratio, and I'm not entertaining a regear at this time. Please don't suggest obvious large mechanical changes. The truck has a lockup switch, which I generally don't use. While cruising at around 60km/h, in 3rd gear, my TPS is hovering right around the area where lockup is allowed (12% ish). There is only maybe a 2% hysteresis here, and the converter will unlock (thanks Chrysler). This is especially obvious if I set the cruise. Lock, unlock, lock, unlock. Couple this with the fact that my RPM's are too low in this situation, and a little bit of surging can occur. Really, if this trans was properly controlled, it'd be in 2nd lockup at this point. But let's not dive into that. 2nd gear might as well not even exist in this heap. A similar but less severe situation occurs at 85-95 km/h in Overdrive. I'm not as concerned about that, I usually lock out O/D until at least over 100 km/h. I mostly want to clean up 3rd gear mid speed cruising. So ideas. I could adjust the Quadzilla's 0-5 psi fuel percentages. If I decrease these percentages, it will force more TPS % to go the same speed. This only fixes half the problem; it'll still lockup too early, just won't keep unlocking because of low TPS. And there's the obvious side effect of increased spoolup time because of less fuel. I could tap into the TPS analog signal, and use a potentiometer to make an adjustable voltage divider to trigger a low voltage relay, and use the contacts of the relay to open up the lockup circuit until the TPS % is higher. This would be the ideal situation where possible. It would force lockup to be delayed until higher throttle, which would mean higher speed and higher RPM. Except, this may still allow the lock-unlock-lock-unlock situation, just moved into a higher TPS range. It might even make it worse. I could maybe use another relay to allow unlock at a different TPS but that's getting a bit complex. If there was a DC wheel speed signal somewhere, I could do something similar with a speed trigger instead. But I'm guessing all tappable speed signals are AC (or rather pulsed DC). I'm sure there are more reasonable inexpensive solutions that I am not aware of. I'm going to keep thinking about this, and I plan on implementing something when the snow is off the ground. Thanks in advance for your ideas.

Fun fact, if your ABS computer is programmed for aftermarket tire size, you need to leave the tire size as default or it won't be accurate.

Don't forget your clutch is rated at flywheel toque, not rear wheel torque.

Do you have warranty on the starter?