Tractorman

I converted my headlight system to the sport package system last July. I chose to use two fuses and four relays for the following reasons: * one fuse and two relays per side for safety * one fuse and two relays per side for lower amp draw (10 amp per side with four high beam bulbs activated) * two relays per side using both 87 an 87a terminals on both relays so low and high beams are not mixed when switching from low to high or vice versa. I wired my headlights per OEM specs and Daniel Stearns recommendation. Even though I purchased my Sport Package headlights at HeadLights Depot.com, the greatly improved lighting is very good on low beam and excellent on high beam. I am not talking about how bright they are, but how well they light up the roadway and surrounding area without impacting other drivers. I think one important step is overlooked much of the time and that is to perform a voltage test at the headlight bulb when the project is complete. Most bulbs manufacturers require 13.2 volts AT THE BULB to perform to their specs. This means making the check with engine running and headlights on. Both test leads should be placed at the connector on the bulb for most accurate reading. In my case the low beams showed 13.4 volts and the high beams showed 13.2 volts. In the diagram below I interfaced the factory schematic with my modifications. I used 14 gauge wire in the relayed part of the circuit. The schematic works for either two bulb or four bulb system. The factory part of the schematic makes it easier to find wires however you decide to do the project. - John

I installed a vacuum operated switch ( a GM heater / AC control from a wrecking yard) years ago. The cost was $5.00 and it has worked for over 250,000 miles. I think it is the best option because it allows for easy engagement and release of the CAD with vehicle slightly rolling. I use the 2WD Low frequently and I believe this is an excellent upgrade. If you go this route, just about any automotive HVAC control with vacuum ports and a rotary control knob will work. You will need to figure out which ports will work for you - a vacuum pump with a gauge will be very helpful. You will probably need to cap off some ports to make it work. The end result is well worth the effort. - John

I very much agree you and here is why. I am the original owner of my 2002 truck. The VP44 and lift pump were replaced in 2005 at 87,000 miles under warranty for timing piston failure code on the VP44. The lift pump pressure was in specs before the VP44 and lift pump were replaced. I drove the truck for a week (50 miles per day before I gave the truck to the dealer)with a fuel gauge attached to my windshield wiper and the fuel pressure always stayed within specs under all driving conditions. After the replacement of the VP44 and the factory modification of installing an in-tank lift pump, I installed the same fuel pressure gauge and fuel pressure was much lower than specs under all driving conditions (6 psi at idle and 3 psi under a load). I questioned the dealer mechanic (a very knowledgeable guy) about this and he said he is aware of this, but the new lift pump installation change is required by Dodge. Fast forward a few years - I currently have 267,000 miles on the truck (180,000 miles on the replaced VP44). In the spring of 2016 (at 251,000 miles) I replaced the in-tank lift pump (which was still working) with a frame mounted used FASS lift pump. I only did this in case the lift pump failed while on a road trip which would make for an easy repair. So the VP44 ran for 11 years and 164,000 miles with the in-tank lift pump operating at very low pressures and the VP44 is still running fine. Hmmmm.... Thanks for listening - John